How much weight?

gears

Member
ok, new to the big boys (I know a 3400 isn't huge but it's quite a bit more tractor than my 9N) and I've got 13.6x28 ag tires on it. Only run it about 7hrs (that is over the course of a year owning it, full rebuild on the motor and been troubleshooting ever since).

Been stuck several times, today it wouldn't back up a 10* slope! Tires just kept-a-spinnin. 2 strikes against me: 1. no weights, tires are unloaded too. and 2. just put a FEL on it.

Before I decide to sell this thing I figure I'll weight the back end and see if it can move through the woods where the N runs all day long.

So far the only ballast I put on was a 6' box blade. The bucket on the FEL was empty.

I'm thinking of strapping a 50gallon water tank onto the box blade to see if that makes a difference before I fill the tires (gonna use old anti-freeze rather than beet or Cal).

Opinions, ideas, suggestions or solutions?
 
Fluid and/cast iron on the back is beneficial in most
cases, and an absolute must on a loader tractor. I
prefer CaCl in the tires, but understand your choice
of antifreeze. That will add 7-8 pounds per gallon,
where CaCl will add 12 pounds per gallon. I have the
rears on my 4600 filled (16.9x30) and that's barely
enough.
 
(quoted from post at 20:50:08 04/07/16) ok, new to the big boys (I know a 3400 isn't huge but it's quite a bit more tractor than my 9N) and I've got 13.6x28 ag tires on it. Only run it about 7hrs (that is over the course of a year owning it, full rebuild on the motor and been troubleshooting ever since).

Been stuck several times, today it wouldn't back up a 10* slope! Tires just kept-a-spinnin. 2 strikes against me: 1. no weights, tires are unloaded too. and 2. just put a FEL on it.

Before I decide to sell this thing I figure I'll weight the back end and see if it can move through the woods where the N runs all day long.

So far the only ballast I put on was a 6' box blade. The bucket on the FEL was empty.

I'm thinking of strapping a 50gallon water tank onto the box blade to see if that makes a difference before I fill the tires (gonna use old anti-freeze rather than beet or Cal).

Opinions, ideas, suggestions or solutions?
ell, you didn't specify how you "get stuck'. Spin out without sinking or sinking? Sinking, then more weight will help you sink easier. Spin because of lack of traction, then more weight may be helpful.
 
Good point J

Spinning out on the surface, not muddy swamp, just ripping through the topsoil and spinning on the clay below. Doesn't even dig a rut. Dug myself out backwards with the bucket both times it got stuck this afternoon ("joyride" shakedown for the hydraulics, drove it out of the barn and into the woods to go pickup the bucket).
 
Rear ballast is mandatory on a 2WD FEL tractor. The more ballast, the better.

Loading the tires is minimal.

1,000 lbs. on the lift in addition to loaded tires should do it for most jobs.

Dean
 
I have 13.6 x 28s on my Jubilee loaded with CaCl plus 750# on
the lift. Weight on the lift also helps take stress off the steering.
It will still slip on ice or slick mud if I get the loader over an edge.
 
I'm running a 545 and ran into the same issue. So I filled the rears (which I also replaced from nearly bald R-4s)and added cast wheel weights. I also built a bracket for the 3 point to carry weight. On that bracket I bolted the front weight mount from a salvaged White 2-70 and then filled the bracket with 100# weights until it was full. I used a White bracket because our main tractor is a 2-70 so we can multi-purpose the weights. I don't have an exact weight but I'm estimating there is at least 1200 pounds of counterweight. It's also nice being able to easily take the weight off to prevent needless bearing wear.
545 with loader and counterweight picture link
 
Looking at my original owners manual here.
It says the maximum permissible amount of
ballast on the rear for a 3000 is 3000 lbs.
They say that's including fluid and CI
combined.
They say max permissible load including
front and rear ballast plus mounted
equipment is 5000 lbs.
Your 3400 would probably top that because of
the heavier front axle.
Had the same problem when I still had my
2000 with one armed loader on it so I kept
adding weight. Inner wheel weights = 225 lbs
plus light pie weights = 400 lbs plus CaCl
in the tires = about 500 lbs - per wheel for
about 2250 lbs total on the rear.
It made a huge difference in traction.
You could hang two barrels of fluid off the
back of your tractor and still be well
within limits.
 
So I'll build a bracket to park the N on the 3 point and I'll be set! :)

Thanks for the feedback guys, seeing this thing get stuck where the N goes regularly is extremely frustrating - had a big cherry come down in the upper corner of our woods, used a chemical tote as a wood cage (you know, those big 275gallon plastic bladdered steel cube cages) - daughter filled it with split wood and the 9N couldn't lift it. Figured I'd drive the 3400 up and bring it back, just too slick on that little uphill to get the beast up there! (the fact that I was trying to back it uphill probably contributed too).

rusty, the pic didn't show (even disabled adblock).

I'll try and shoot some pics this weekend.
 
I'll try to repost the picture
c144569.jpg
 
agree with the others that filled tires/weights are mandatory with a loader......just to drive across the field....
Use the loader? weights/fluid and a big counterweight as far behind the tractor as you can get it.
bad traction conditions or hill? add chains too.

How much weight on the hitch as counterweight?
Well, lift it some and step up on the rear of the weight.....does the empty front bucket and front wheels come off the ground? ok, that's about right. (I'm only slightly joking :D )
 
Yes I have the diff lock - that left 2 wheels chugging around not moving the tractor, but at least they were synchronized :)

I'm thinking of building some concrete fender weights as well (saw some where they sat inside the fender on top of the axle).
 
With the clay just below the topsoil like you describe you might need chains no matter how much weight you have.
 



LIKE THE others have said... I have been there and spun it also.... so... fill tires FULL of fluid... put a set of pie weights on it an it was good... before the pie weights, ,,,, filled a 55 gal barrel full of concrete... with a rod through it and a top liink tabs welded on... this ballast was pretty good.... before that, hung a really old and heavy shredder on the back... .it worked well everywhere except for in thick trees.... the longer and heavier, the better... However in trees, it sticks out too far and make maneuvering all but impossible. So... yes.. with a heavy loader on the front,, you really need to ballast up the rear... Once you get it there, its a completely different machine... still, backing,, up hill with a full bucket will be the worse you can do.
 
(quoted from post at 22:22:34 04/08/16)


LIKE THE others have said... I have been there and spun it also.... so... fill tires FULL of fluid... put a set of pie weights on it an it was good... before the pie weights, ,,,, filled a 55 gal barrel full of concrete... with a rod through it and a top liink tabs welded on... this ballast was pretty good.... before that, hung a really old and heavy shredder on the back... .it worked well everywhere except for in thick trees.... the longer and heavier, the better... However in trees, it sticks out too far and make maneuvering all but impossible. So... yes.. with a heavy loader on the front,, you really need to ballast up the rear... Once you get it there, its a completely different machine... still, backing,, up hill with a full bucket will be the worse you can do.
Oh yeah, more weight is the answer..........these guys just didn't have enough of it!
 
Don't worry J (great pics though) I won't go overboard. Since there's NO weight on back now, I figure loaded tires and a counterweight will be a good thing, NOT backing up a slippery slope will be another.
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top