How strong are head studs....

[Absent Minded Farmer]

From an Farmall H?

Managed to repurpose some for a project I'm working on. Have them in place holding up a header board between two 4x4 posts & then plan on hanging a door from that on the back of my forage box.

Now, after some thought, I'm wondering if they'll hold up to this job?. This is quite a bit different than what they were meant for. In their usual line of duty, they get longitudinally stressed & not laterally. Can't say how heavy the door will be either. I'm going to be building it up with whatever's laying around here for lumber & some of it is pretty dry. Not putting too much effort into it, as I only need it to work once.

Not sure what I'm doing with the wagon after that. It's pretty tatty. Been thinking about taking the false front frame & unloader mechanism off of it & using it to build up a super wagon. There's an 8x16 Kasten gear & the bed has an I beam frame, metal cross channels & wrap around bumper. Think that would be a lot better than ol' termite chow here.

Mike

Were 4x4 posts smaller way back when? This one just doesn't fit in the brace.

Need to add to the rear door, too yet. It's just a bit short & my board stretcher is in for calibrating.

Here's the hinge detail.

 

[560Dennis]

Here s the link ️

U.S. Bolts: Tensile Strength & Proof Load Specifications

Tensile strength and proof loads SAE bolts.

www.engineeringtoolbox.com

Get back to us with the calculations. ️

 

[Jim.ME]

From an Farmall H?

Managed to repurpose some for a project I'm working on. Have them in place holding up a header board between two 4x4 posts & then plan on hanging a door from that on the back of my forage box.

Now, after some thought, I'm wondering if they'll hold up to this job?. This is quite a bit different than what they were meant for. In their usual line of duty, they get longitudinally stressed & not laterally. Can't say how heavy the door will be either. I'm going to be building it up with whatever's laying around here for lumber & some of it is pretty dry. Not putting too much effort into it, as I only need it to work once.

Not sure what I'm doing with the wagon after that. It's pretty tatty. Been thinking about taking the false front frame & unloader mechanism off of it & using it to build up a super wagon. There's an 8x16 Kasten gear & the bed has an I beam frame, metal cross channels & wrap around bumper. Think that would be a lot better than ol' termite chow here.

Mike



Were 4x4 posts smaller way back when? This one just doesn't fit in the brace.

View attachment 131863

Maybe it wasn't a 4 x 4 but sized cut to what they wanted.

 

[spacechem]

From an Farmall H?

Managed to repurpose some for a project I'm working on. Have them in place holding up a header board between two 4x4 posts & then plan on hanging a door from that on the back of my forage box.

Now, after some thought, I'm wondering if they'll hold up to this job?. This is quite a bit different than what they were meant for. In their usual line of duty, they get longitudinally stressed & not laterally. Can't say how heavy the door will be either. I'm going to be building it up with whatever's laying around here for lumber & some of it is pretty dry. Not putting too much effort into it, as I only need it to work once.

Not sure what I'm doing with the wagon after that. It's pretty tatty. Been thinking about taking the false front frame & unloader mechanism off of it & using it to build up a super wagon. There's an 8x16 Kasten gear & the bed has an I beam frame, metal cross channels & wrap around bumper. Think that would be a lot better than ol' termite chow here.

Mike

View attachment 131862

Were 4x4 posts smaller way back when? This one just doesn't fit in the brace.

View attachment 131863

Need to add to the rear door, too yet. It's just a bit short & my board stretcher is in for calibrating.

View attachment 131864

Here's the hinge detail.

View attachment 131865

Two comments:
1. Way back whenever that was built, the factory would have contracted with some supplier for the pieces their design engineers specified and not necessarily common, garden-variety dimension lumber. I'm sure you know that "4X4" was bigger in any 'before' than it is now. 2X4, 2X6, etc. 'ain't gettin' any bigger'. You'll have to "raise the bridge" (have lumber custom sawn or plane what you have) or "lower the river" (modify the braces).
2. I would be very confident using the hardware you have. Those bolts will surely hold beyond the yield strength of the wood.

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

Here s the link ️

U.S. Bolts: Tensile Strength & Proof Load Specifications

Tensile strength and proof loads SAE bolts.

www.engineeringtoolbox.com

Get back to us with the calculations. ️

Think I need a tensile chart for this?

Also, what grade are those head bolts?

Mike

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

Two comments:
1. Way back whenever that was built, the factory would have contracted with some supplier for the pieces their design engineers specified and not necessarily common, garden-variety dimension lumber. I'm sure you know that "4X4" was bigger in any 'before' than it is now. 2X4, 2X6, etc. 'ain't gettin' any bigger'. You'll have to "raise the bridge" (have lumber custom sawn or plane what you have) or "lower the river" (modify the braces).
2. I would be very confident using the hardware you have. Those bolts will surely hold beyond the yield strength of the wood.

Think I'll notch those 4x4's out where the braces attach, thanks!

Mike

 

[Jim.ME]

Think I need a tensile chart for this?

Also, what grade are those head bolts?

Mike

You threw the ball out there with your comment about them being strong enough. Either you are concerned about it and will get the bolts checked or it was a comment just missing a haha after it.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Grade 8 head bolts is always what I was told to replace the farmall studs with if you couldn’t happen to find some studs. Fine thread if I recall

Super c was 7/16 (i think I remember it was a somewhat goofy size) if I recall I would suspect h is bigger

Your post at an angle would be slightly more concerning to me if lifting things as stated above that wood will split around the stud before that

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

You threw the ball out there with your comment about them being strong enough. Either you are concerned about it and will get the bolts checked or it was a comment just missing a haha after it.

The coffee just hasn't kicked in yet.

Mike

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

Grade 8 head bolts is always what I was told to replace the farmall studs with if you couldn’t happen to find some studs. Fine thread if I recall

Super c was 7/16 (i think I remember it was a somewhat goofy size) if I recall I would suspect h is bigger

Your post at an angle would be slightly more concerning to me if lifting things as stated above that wood will split around the stud before that

The H has 7/16 as well. I remember searching all over creation & no one had 7/16" lift rings to stick in the block to hoist it.

I still have to finagle everything into place. It's just rough assembled for the moment.

Mike

 

[used red MN]

It is my thinking those studs will be there with all there resilience when common pine or fir lumber is ripped away. If you use home sawn oak they might get bent a little when something tries to dislodge them.

 

[1948CaseVAI]

Think I'll notch those 4x4's out where the braces attach, thanks!

Mike

If you were building a desk it would be required in code to notch those so that your crosspiece is not just held up by hardware. If you really question the head studs take a 20 dollar bill to Lowes and get new.

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

If you were building a desk it would be required in code to notch those so that your crosspiece is not just held up by hardware. If you really question the head studs take a 20 dollar bill to Lowes and get new.

No argument here.

The crosspiece will be notched in on the future build of this wagon*. For the moment I just need something to keep the chopped corn in from 8, 200' rows.

Mike

*Also debating using a beater assembly & front from an old Gehl box, should I build on the aforementioned Kasten rack. Then there won't be any wood back there.

 

[dpendzic]

You threw the ball out there with your comment about them being strong enough. Either you are concerned about it and will get the bolts checked or it was a comment just missing a haha after it.

its not so much the strength of the bolt but more of the diameter and crushing strength of the wood---the NDS specs are pretty universally used for timber design and has tables for different diameter bolts in various wood for there allowable load

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

its not so much the strength of the bolt but more of the diameter and crushing strength of the wood---the NDS specs are pretty universally used for timber design and has tables for different diameter bolts in various wood for there allowable load

I would venture to guess, there a rule of thumb for how much crush those bolts should be providing? Should the washers remain on the surface or be flush?

Mike

 

[560Dennis]

Think I need a tensile chart for this?

Also, what grade are those head bolts?

Mike

You can do it ! Carry on

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

Got a bit more done on the wagon today. More pieces got roughed in. The 4x4 that was slid under the floor was a great pain. Just didn't want to go in. Was a hair too thick. Grabbed my 3lb adjuster & "finessed" it in. Tagged an extra rib onto each end & now the metal braces look like a do-able addition. Just have to notch the 4x4s & it'll be ready for the door.

I did pull it out to a flat spot on the driveway, to see how crooked everything was. Yep, it's all crooked. The front left angle iron brace, by the false front, is short & pulling everything off kilter. Might sneak a big shim in there & see if that makes a difference.

Mike

 

[used red MN]

For the moment I just need something to keep the chopped corn in from 8, 200' rows.

Curious if you plan on this being a somewhat long term storage? The fermenting process that will kick in will not be friendly to the wood of the wagon.

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

Curious if you plan on this being a somewhat long term storage? The fermenting process that will kick in will not be friendly to the wood of the wagon.

To preface this: The corn patch is pretty much a testing ground for the chopper & myself.... as.... I've never chopped corn before!! (If you feel faint after that revelation, my apologies! )

I'm chopping into the wagon to keep from reseeding the Sand Patch. Highly doubt that false front will do any good, so it will be shoveled onto the compost pile. Was going to ask around & see if anyone wanted it for their cows, but 80% of the corn has been down since summer & I personally don't eat the stuff.

Mike

 

[used red MN]

To preface this: The corn patch is pretty much a testing ground for the chopper & myself.... as.... I've never chopped corn before!! (If you feel faint after that revelation, my apologies! )

I'm chopping into the wagon to keep from reseeding the Sand Patch. Highly doubt that false front will do any good, so it will be shoveled onto the compost pile. Was going to ask around & see if anyone wanted it for their cows, but 80% of the corn has been down since summer & I personally don't eat the stuff.

Mike

Let’s see a photo of the false front. That should eliminate your need to shovel it out. This is how a couple of the silage wagons we had worked. A chain was attached near each outer edge of the false front long enough to form a vee that would extend about 7-8 foot back. A single chain was used from this point to extend back on the floor. The end was tied there with a bale wire to keep it there while the wagon was bumping through the field empty. A second lighter chain was attached to the false front and anchored at the front of the wagon to only allow it to travel to the back edge of the wagon then stop. The tailgate was opened the end of the chain untied from the wire and a chain from a 2nd tractor was hooked to the chain and the false front pulled back against the stop chain emptying the load. You could forego the stop chain if you had a spotter to stop you before the false front was pulled completely out of the trailer. I am not sure what you 8 - 200 ft rows will produce. Probably don’t want to get it much more than 3 ft deep for this to work. We would oil the wood and it would take several loads for everything to “slick up” so you could fill it full and slide out the whole load as a brick of sorts.
Not sure if you have more than one tractor you could hook the wagon to your pickup and it would probably hold it use the emergency brake put it in 4wd if it has that. You could also chain the false front pull chain to a tree and pull the wagon forward.

The corn patch is pretty much a testing ground for the chopper & myself.... as.... I've never chopped corn before!! (If you feel faint after that revelation, my apologies! )

No faintness at all!