How strong are head studs....

Let’s see a photo of the false front. That should eliminate your need to shovel it out. This is how a couple of the silage wagons we had worked. A chain was attached near each outer edge of the false front long enough to form a vee that would extend about 7-8 foot back. A single chain was used from this point to extend back on the floor. The end was tied there with a bale wire to keep it there while the wagon was bumping through the field empty. A second lighter chain was attached to the false front and anchored at the front of the wagon to only allow it to travel to the back edge of the wagon then stop. The tailgate was opened the end of the chain untied from the wire and a chain from a 2nd tractor was hooked to the chain and the false front pulled back against the stop chain emptying the load. You could forego the stop chain if you had a spotter to stop you before the false front was pulled completely out of the trailer. I am not sure what you 8 - 200 ft rows will produce. Probably don’t want to get it much more than 3 ft deep for this to work. We would oil the wood and it would take several loads for everything to “slick up” so you could fill it full and slide out the whole load as a brick of sorts.
Not sure if you have more than one tractor you could hook the wagon to your pickup and it would probably hold it use the emergency brake put it in 4wd if it has that. You could also chain the false front pull chain to a tree and pull the wagon forward.


No faintness at all!o_O
The false front on this wagon is powered. By what... I don't know. Could be PTO, could be a separate power unit. Still can't find any info on it, outside of the fact that it's a Simpson-Sears/David Bradley unit (eh?). Guessing it was part of a kit, that may have included some hardware, the two top hoops & whatever held the tailgate shut.

Not thinking they made too many of these, with a serial number of 109??
IMG_20241026_184512.jpg



Here's the false front. Note canted, angle iron brace on the left....
IMG_20251019_122806.jpg


Here's the tail end with the cables & pulleys. The false front was canted to conform to the wagon sides.....
IMG_20251019_122914.jpg


Not sure if the sill board.... or whatever you want to call it, will hold up to the strains of using the unloader unit....
IMG_20251019_122827.jpg


Been thinking of putting a support or two under it, to see if it will work. Which means it probably will.... I'll just end up breaking a cable or something. ¯\_ (ツ)_/¯

Your method of using a chain or similar to drag it out, reminds me of how they used to unload grain from boxcars.
456312537_10222055845419722_7788262774529274444_n.jpg


Mike
 
The false front on this wagon is powered. By what... I don't know. Could be PTO, could be a separate power unit. Still can't find any info on it, outside of the fact that it's a Simpson-Sears/David Bradley unit (eh?). Guessing it was part of a kit, that may have included some hardware, the two top hoops & whatever held the tailgate shut.

Not thinking they made too many of these, with a serial number of 109??
View attachment 131977


Here's the false front. Note canted, angle iron brace on the left....
View attachment 131978

Here's the tail end with the cables & pulleys. The false front was canted to conform to the wagon sides.....
View attachment 131979

Not sure if the sill board.... or whatever you want to call it, will hold up to the strains of using the unloader unit....
View attachment 131980

Been thinking of putting a support or two under it, to see if it will work. Which means it probably will.... I'll just end up breaking a cable or something. ¯\_ (ツ)_/¯

Your method of using a chain or similar to drag it out, reminds me of how they used to unload grain from boxcars.
View attachment 131981

Mike
Looks like it was just a simple hand crank unload maybe
If it was pto there would need to be a reverser gearbox
 
Looks like it was just a simple hand crank unload maybe
If it was pto there would need to be a reverser gearbox
I figure it could have been PTO powered back & hand cranked to return it. The lever on it is either engaged or neutral. There was a square-holed casting, bolted into the pipe on the right. Pulled it to use the crank from my H to bring the false end back forward. That was a real peach, with the cable mounted high on the boards.

The reverser box does make sense, as Gehl had one for theirs.

Mike
 
"I did pull it out to a flat spot on the driveway, to see how crooked everything was. Yep, it's all crooked. The front left angle iron brace, by the false front, is short & pulling everything off kilter. Might sneak a big shim in there & see if that makes a difference."

You'll wanna check with local authorities to be sure, but I believe Wisconsin law requires those old wooden silage wagons to be racked and twisted out of anything being square... ;)
 
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