How to bleed injection pump on 1030??

[helenthe]

I have a later model 1030 with two, not three, fuel filters. After winter did not want to run, although with either it would race for about ten seconds then stall out. I replaced and bled both fuel filters. Now shows diesel vapor at exhaust and with either will run a few beats then stall. Manual refers to bleeding the injection pump at fuel return line and at transfer pump. Maybe I can see that rear cap nut (toward rear of tractor) on the pump but it is inaccessible under throttle linkage and injection lines. Any other way to bleed the pump??

 

[Dieseltech]

Loosen ALL SIX injector line nuts at the injectors, 1/2 turn is enough, then tap each line to make sure it comes loose from injector inlet. Now crank engine as needed to bleed the air from all six, when air free fuel is seen at all six injectors tighten the line nuts and start engine.

 

[olgentdc]

I have a later model 1030 with two, not three, fuel filters. After winter did not want to run, although with either it would race for about ten seconds then stall out. I replaced and bled both fuel filters. Now shows diesel vapor at exhaust and with either will run a few beats then stall. Manual refers to bleeding the injection pump at fuel return line and at transfer pump. Maybe I can see that rear cap nut (toward rear of tractor) on the pump but it is inaccessible under throttle linkage and injection lines. Any other way to bleed the pump?? Dieseltech said it best ,,. Stay away from tinkering with the pump beyond loosen and tighten fuel lines ,,. A lot of Guys have installed electric fuel pumps on these tractors and that syops loss of power and stalling out ..

I have a later model 1030 with two, not three, fuel filters. After winter did not want to run, although with either it would race for about ten seconds then stall out. I replaced and bled both fuel filters. Now shows diesel vapor at exhaust and with either will run a few beats then stall. Manual refers to bleeding the injection pump at fuel return line and at transfer pump. Maybe I can see that rear cap nut (toward rear of tractor) on the pump but it is inaccessible under throttle linkage and injection lines. Any other way to bleed the pump??

 

[casecollectorsc]

Are you sure the fuel rack on the injection pump is free? Flat two sided cap on the front of the pump comes off and the end of the fuel rack is there...should move freely.

 

[jon f mn]

I've never had to bleed a pump on a case with the in-line pump. I would check the fuel rack to see if it's stuck. If it did stick over winter, check for algea in your fuel. It should not stick that soon.

 

[helenthe]

Thank you all. I will check the rack. On my pump appears to be a knurled cap in that location. I should add that the tank and fuel lines were clogged with bio-diesel goo. B-20 was sold at the pumps around here for awhile. I did not see it in the filters or the primer pump. Tank and lines now removed for cleaning and I am supplying fuel from a temporary tank on the tractor hood. This also makes a gravity system. I hope that would not have the same effect as an electric pump mentioned above.

 

[Dieseltech]

Setting unused awhile with Bio fuel will stick one or more plungers which will keep the rack from moving freely as it needs to on ANY inline pump.

 

[helenthe]

Yesterday I bled the pump and injection lines at the injectors. Tractor ran for nearly a minute (fast speed but not run-away) then stalled out. The hand throttle had no effect during that run. This morning I found my way to the correct cap on the front of the pump and inspected the rack. It will move only a tiny fraction in response to the hand throttle. I'm wondering if there is any other soak or something I can do before sending the pump to overhaul. The cost is a hurdle.

Before I got the tractor it was used in an are where B-20, 20% bio-fuel blended with 80% standard diesel was common, since discontinued I think for obvious reasone. I recently had a similar issue with the 430 from the same area. There was this black goo at the bottome of the fuel tank that had migrated and choked the fuel lines. When I flushed it out with near boiling hot water, it hardened where exposed to air outside the tractor.

 

[Dieseltech]

Yesterday I bled the pump and injection lines at the injectors. Tractor ran for nearly a minute (fast speed but not run-away) then stalled out. The hand throttle had no effect during that run. This morning I found my way to the correct cap on the front of the pump and inspected the rack. It will move only a tiny fraction in response to the hand throttle. I'm wondering if there is any other soak or something I can do before sending the pump to overhaul. The cost is a hurdle.

Before I got the tractor it was used in an are where B-20, 20% bio-fuel blended with 80% standard diesel was common, since discontinued I think for obvious reasone. I recently had a similar issue with the 430 from the same area. There was this black goo at the bottome of the fuel tank that had migrated and choked the fuel lines. When I flushed it out with near boiling hot water, it hardened where exposed to air outside the tractor.

With engine OFF, and hand throttle wide open, remove the front cap. Now have someone move the hand throttle to fuel stop, run, and stop again. If it moves at all, no plungers are stuck. Another test, remove the rack end screw and shims and set aside. Now thread in the rack a 1.0 MM X 6MM bolt to use as a handle, with throttle at idle position see if rack will move out easily by hand. If so all is well. If not, one or more plungers are sticking. Full rack travel on that pump is 21 MM, but Case uses a weak starting spring that USUSALLY won't pull the rack completely out. JD and KHD pumps use a heavier starting spring and will pull the rack all the way forward during starting of engine.

 

[helenthe]

Test result. Moving hand throttle full range, off-full-off-full results in only about 1 mm movement of the rack at the front cap. Trying to move the rack from the front results same, just 1 mm.

 

[Dieseltech]

Test result. Moving hand throttle full range, off-full-off-full results in only about 1 mm movement of the rack at the front cap. Trying to move the rack from the front results same, just 1 mm.

That means pump has one or more plungers stuck, which keeps the rack from moving. Pump will PROBABLY need to come off to save it, the two bolt side cover needs to come off that is next to engine side of pump.

 

[helenthe]

Thanks, I'll get back to it in a few days.

 

[helenthe]

Does the pump turn at the same speed as the engine or maybe 1/2 speed of the engine. I found the timing marks on the damper pully but not the M mark on the pump gear.

 

[Dieseltech]

Does the pump turn at the same speed as the engine or maybe 1/2 speed of the engine. I found the timing marks on the damper pully but not the M mark on the pump gear.

Pump turns 1/2 engine speed. Turn engine one more turn and check for the pump gear mark again. Gear is FAINTLY marked, wipe oil away to see the mark easier.

 

[helenthe]

Two plus hand cranked revolutions of the engine, looked at every tooth of the pump gear, reading glasses and magnifying glass, could find no "M" mark or any mark. Assume it is on the top of the tooth, could it be on the side facing the pump? Almost impossible to see that location.

There are two small chips on the pump end of 2-3 pump gear teeth. Something maybe went through there. But this is opposite side of engine rotation from the damper timing marks. And engine has been running OK before this pump issue.

Thinking I may have to confirm TDC (32 degree advance) from valves position on #1, then mark the pump gear myself.

Am I looking in the wrong place?

 

[Dieseltech]

Two plus hand cranked revolutions of the engine, looked at every tooth of the pump gear, reading glasses and magnifying glass, could find no "M" mark or any mark. Assume it is on the top of the tooth, could it be on the side facing the pump? Almost impossible to see that location.

There are two small chips on the pump end of 2-3 pump gear teeth. Something maybe went through there. But this is opposite side of engine rotation from the damper timing marks. And engine has been running OK before this pump issue.

Thinking I may have to confirm TDC (32 degree advance) from valves position on #1, then mark the pump gear myself.

Am I looking in the wrong place?

The fine marks are on the gear hub at REAR of the teeth and on the pump PILOT flange. No teeth are marked at all on the pump.

 

[helenthe]

Thank you, I will look again. Saw the mark on the PILOT flange.

 

[helenthe]

Thank you again. I landed on it this time. The mark on the pilot flange is pretty small but basically it was staring me in the face the whole time. Will remove pump next week. Timing was set about 25 degrees advance, which maybe not enough for a 1030??

 

[Dieseltech]

Thank you again. I landed on it this time. The mark on the pilot flange is pretty small but basically it was staring me in the face the whole time. Will remove pump next week. Timing was set about 25 degrees advance, which maybe not enough for a 1030??

It may have been retarded some to help with cold starting.

 

[olgentdc]

Loosen ALL SIX injector line nuts at the injectors, 1/2 turn is enough, then tap each line to make sure it comes loose from injector inlet. Now crank engine as needed to bleed the air from all six, when air free fuel is seen at all six injectors tighten the line nuts and start engine.

Do not overlook this ,,. My 1070 got some water in the fuel ,,. I put 911 in the tank and replaced filters and drained the tank sump numerous times before it was happy again , On e of its tricks was caused by the 911 i am guessing ,,. My 1070 has a lift pump on the left side of engine with a hand primer ,,. I f the tractor set a week it would stall ,,. No fuel ? The hand pump was not getting fuel , I removed the hand primer and removed the plunger under it.. IT WAS STICKY ,,. i washed it with alcohol and primed the 1070 , startedright Up and ran all Day .