How to free a stuck engine?

[Alexander1997]

I’m hopefully starting my MM ZTU project this weekend. I bought this tractor from a friend who said the tractor was running when he bought it and drove it on and off his trailer, then parked it and now the engine is locked up. So my guess since it was sitting outside and didn’t have any major mechanical pitfall, is moisture and rust now have the engine seized.

This is the first time I’ve ever done this, so I’m learning as I go. A lot of people have told me to remove the spark plugs and pour kerosene into the cylinders, allow it to soak, for weeks possibly, then try slowly over time to turn the engine with the hand crank and see if it budges. If not, then it’s time to start taking it down and see what’s going on.. is the kerosene in the cylinders the best procedure to start? Has anyone freed up an engine this way?

Also, the barn this Z is stored inside is near my grandparent’s diesel tank, so I have diesel nearby if it’s a better alternative than kerosene on freeing one up? Of course, this is just step 1 in a lengthy restoration process. I’m just looking for tips and ideas on freeing my first engine up. Thanks in advance!!

 

[rustred]

first of all if the muffler or pipe was open to rain then its engine tear down time. as for kerosene vs diesel kerosene is 10 times better. diesel is for burning in a diesel engine and not much good for anything else. you bought this tractor so you can give us more details as to its situation. them tractor's have that weird engine with the plugs on the side also. as i said if water got in your fighting a loosing battle. plus them mufflers sit horizontal so it would take a lot of water before entering the cylinders pull the plugs and inspect them for rust, if rust is present just start the tear down.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

I’ve had some luck with dropping the oil pan and seeing how stuck you are while you fill the cylinders with whatever your magic oil is. I choose kroil because it’s what I have laying around. Others choose atf or their own mix of kerosene and oil. You have some time to wait anyway while it soaks might as well see what it’s like from the bottom that will give you a good idea of what you are in for is there a whole lot of corrosion or can you see the bores are shiny. If it won’t go with a bit of persuasion I start pulling caps on the rods to see what it takes to get it to spin. And then you can thump a couple of the pistons that are a bit lower back up with the rubber handle of a carnival hammer then reattach to crank and get them to move. Don’t go crazy on one if it doesn’t move try another don’t drive intake Valve into a piston. Then you usually have it at that point. It’s easier to break one loose at a time than all 4 that is what it’s trying to do now. This is also assuming there’s nothing goofy about the pan. Usually all 4 are not blocked by balancers or oil pumps but some times stuff is in the way that must be pulled off first

 

[glennster]

see if your local auto zone rents a borescope/inspection camera, if no harbor freight has one for about 85 dollars. pull the spark plugs and see what the cylinders look like. if they are clean, fill cylinders with your favorite penetrating oil. if they are rusted up, pull the engine apart.

 

[Alexander1997]

first of all if the muffler or pipe was open to rain then its engine tear down time. as for kerosene vs diesel kerosene is 10 times better. diesel is for burning in a diesel engine and not much good for anything else. you bought this tractor so you can give us more details as to its situation. them tractor's have that weird engine with the plugs on the side also. as i said if water got in your fighting a loosing battle. plus them mufflers sit horizontal so it would take a lot of water before entering the cylinders pull the plugs and inspect them for rust, if rust is present just start the tear down.

Good information. When I first saw this tractor in 2022 the exhaust pipe was covered. I'm assuming my friend had it covered the entire time he owned it and it was running when he got it, so hoping it isn't too rusted. You're right. ZTUs had odd engines. Side mounted valves, spark plugs on the side and it's a "headless" engine. The de-facto cylinder head/combustion chamber is a detachable jug. Two cylinders per jug. I'm wondering now if I should go ahead and plan on taking these jugs off completely.. soak them in something like brake cleaner or kerosene, wash them out and see if I can remove any rust, then turn my attention to the crankshaft, rods, bearings, etc.. I knew of one guy who had a ZTU and removed the jugs and used red mystic grease to force the piston back down, so he could remove it carefully. I'm 26 and I have already accepted this project might very well take until I'm retired to complete because I don't want to just get it running, I really want to return it to how it would've looked and ran in 1948; since I've wanted a ZTU as long as I can remember and they're sort of rare here in the south. So, I guess overall, start with a kerosene soak, see how much rust is present and see if kerosene breaks it free with a 3-4 week soak, but plan on possibly removing the jugs and going into the crankshaft?

 

[Alexander1997]

first of all if the muffler or pipe was open to rain then its engine tear down time. as for kerosene vs diesel kerosene is 10 times better. diesel is for burning in a diesel engine and not much good for anything else. you bought this tractor so you can give us more details as to its situation. them tractor's have that weird engine with the plugs on the side also. as i said if water got in your fighting a loosing battle. plus them mufflers sit horizontal so it would take a lot of water before entering the cylinders pull the plugs and inspect them for rust, if rust is present just start the tear down.

On your comment about the muffler sitting horizontal.. I take it you're saying this could be in my favor? It would take a lot of water entering to rust up the cylinder? Sorry, I'm a novice and just wanted to be sure I understood right. Nonetheless, I appreciate all your insight and help.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

My opinion, the only reason for filling the cylinders with diesel or kerosene is if you have the head off and you're going to light it on fire. That is just one of many old timer tricks for freeing up stuck engines. The fuel will burn and gently heat the cylinder, expanding and shifting things, maybe MAYBE freeing the engine up.

I personally would use something with more of a solvent property. Diesel and kerosene are light oils. Any kind of penetrating oil would be a better choice in my book. I've heard Coca-Cola for its acidic properties but never actually tried it.

 

[olddavid]

I've heard that rocking the tractor in the highest gear will sometimes break one loose if it isn't too stuck.

 

[Alexander1997]

My opinion, the only reason for filling the cylinders with diesel or kerosene is if you have the head off and you're going to light it on fire. That is just one of many old timer tricks for freeing up stuck engines. The fuel will burn and gently heat the cylinder, expanding and shifting things, maybe MAYBE freeing the engine up.

I personally would use something with more of a solvent property. Diesel and kerosene are light oils. Any kind of penetrating oil would be a better choice in my book. I've heard Coca-Cola for its acidic properties but never actually tried it.

Good points. Would acetone be better than kerosene in this case?

 

[glennster]

Good points. Would acetone be better than kerosene in this case?

stop at fleet farm and get a gallon jug of pb blaster penetrating oil. avoid highly flammable solvents.

 

[rustred]

Good points. Would acetone be better than kerosene in this case?

i would hardly think so. its dry u want a lube in there like kerosene.

 

[olgentdc]

Antiufreee or water in the oil could be tattle tale if water froze in the cylindar and burst the wall ,,. Best Check the drain plug by loosening to last thread to see if water drips out ,a few drops might from condensation , No more than a teaspoon ,would not be much cause for alarm , anything more than a half cup would cause a major overhaul to be on Your horizon .. Also ,,,. DC TOM would take a spark plug end welded to a hydraulic hose fitting , fasten it to the up piston , and close the valves on that cylindar and use a tractors hydraulics to move the piston .. I have heard of using a grease zerk to do the same thing ..

 

[Levibridge]

I have a jd 50 that had stuck pistons so I poured a mix of mystery oil, atf, kero, Kroll penetrating fluid, and other stuff down the exhaust pipe into the cylinders. Left it sit at my friend's house who had owned it for 9+months. Hired a neighbor with a rollback to move it to my place and while we were rolling it off the bed, I engaged the clutch without thinking and accidentally freed the pistons.

 

[ss55]

I’m hopefully starting my MM ZTU project this weekend. I bought this tractor from a friend who said the tractor was running when he bought it and drove it on and off his trailer, then parked it and now the engine is locked up. So my guess since it was sitting outside and didn’t have any major mechanical pitfall, is moisture and rust now have the engine seized.

This is the first time I’ve ever done this, so I’m learning as I go. A lot of people have told me to remove the spark plugs and pour kerosene into the cylinders, allow it to soak, for weeks possibly, then try slowly over time to turn the engine with the hand crank and see if it budges. If not, then it’s time to start taking it down and see what’s going on.. is the kerosene in the cylinders the best procedure to start? Has anyone freed up an engine this way?

Also, the barn this Z is stored inside is near my grandparent’s diesel tank, so I have diesel nearby if it’s a better alternative than kerosene on freeing one up? Of course, this is just step 1 in a lengthy restoration process. I’m just looking for tips and ideas on freeing my first engine up. Thanks in advance!!

A mixture of 50-50 acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid) works well to loosen stuck pistons. Are the valves free or are they stuck too?

Do you know how long ago the engine last ran? If it still ran only a year ago in 2023 it might not be stuck too badly and the rings might loosen from the pistons just by running a while. If it last ran over twenty years ago and has been sitting outside since then I would disassemble the engine to inspect it all.

 

[560Dennis]

Back off rocker arm s lube the rockers make sure the valves close , are free . Thke it out of gear.
put 90 to 100 psi of air pressure into each cylinder till pressure drops with your concoction.
i would use ex o rust on mine if I had a rust y vie2 on the camera

 

[RedMF40]

Also, the barn this Z is stored inside is near my grandparent’s diesel tank, so I have diesel nearby if it’s a better alternative than kerosene on freeing one up? Of course, this is just step 1 in a lengthy restoration process. I’m just looking for tips and ideas on freeing my first engine up. Thanks in advance!!

Get out your tools, clean up your workspace (that's more advice for me than for you) and start dismantling the motor. If you're committed to it as a lifelong project, seeing the inside of the motor is something you're going to do anyway. Might as well be now. I've read many success stories on this forum of people using their special concoctions to free up motors. It has never worked for me. And some engines are so stuck the pistons have to be destroyed to remove them.

My current project is a McCormick-Deering 10-20 with a stuck everything. I tried very briefly a mixture of ATF and acetone, then decided to pull the head when I noticed one of the pushrods was bent. It had dropped a valve and others were sticking. But on a more positive note, the insides are fairly rust-free, cylinders look good. You often have to look inside the motor with a dead tractor that's stuck. I think it'll save you a lot of heartache in the long run.

Gerrit

 

[buickanddeere]

I’m hopefully starting my MM ZTU project this weekend. I bought this tractor from a friend who said the tractor was running when he bought it and drove it on and off his trailer, then parked it and now the engine is locked up. So my guess since it was sitting outside and didn’t have any major mechanical pitfall, is moisture and rust now have the engine seized.

This is the first time I’ve ever done this, so I’m learning as I go. A lot of people have told me to remove the spark plugs and pour kerosene into the cylinders, allow it to soak, for weeks possibly, then try slowly over time to turn the engine with the hand crank and see if it budges. If not, then it’s time to start taking it down and see what’s going on.. is the kerosene in the cylinders the best procedure to start? Has anyone freed up an engine this way?

Also, the barn this Z is stored inside is near my grandparent’s diesel tank, so I have diesel nearby if it’s a better alternative than kerosene on freeing one up? Of course, this is just step 1 in a lengthy restoration process. I’m just looking for tips and ideas on freeing my first engine up. Thanks in advance!!

Purchase a gasket set and rings . Disassemble hone the bores and re-ring.

 

[CasevsDeere]

This is what has worked for me on a 1952 SC Case and a 1951 JD B:

remove the spark plugs and spray a abundant amount of seafoam deep creep in each cylinder. Then come back through and fill them the rest of the way up with 50/50 ATF/Paint thinner.

Remove the starter so that you can get at the flywheel with a pry bar.

Pry back and forth on the ring gear everyday when you get home from work for about 10 minutes.

Both tractors were turning free after 4 days of this, the JD had about a quart of water sitting in the right cylinder that I siphoned out before starting this process.

I will add that you want to remove the oil pan and valve cover when doing this to watch everything and make sure something else is not also seized. The Case once turning over was good, no stuck valves or any thing and we had it running in short order.

The JD on the other hand all 4 of the valves were stuck so I ended up pulling the head, and I am glad I did (see picture below). IT spins over good now, it also had about a gallon of water in the crank case that I think came in through the crank cover.

I have a Farmall cub that is also stuck, it has been soaking for months but I also have not messed with it more than an hour or two but I am thinking the head will need to come off of it to get it free. It is a gamble for sure and one you always take when buying something that has been sitting for a long long time. I always like to get them running if I can before doing a lot of engine work, often times they don't need anymore than a good cleaning and some working load to get back into good running shape.

Pics of the B:

 

[rustred]

Good points. Would acetone be better than kerosene in this case?

Nope , kerosene is still your best choice. Or mystery oil.

 

[old]

I’m hopefully starting my MM ZTU project this weekend. I bought this tractor from a friend who said the tractor was running when he bought it and drove it on and off his trailer, then parked it and now the engine is locked up. So my guess since it was sitting outside and didn’t have any major mechanical pitfall, is moisture and rust now have the engine seized.

This is the first time I’ve ever done this, so I’m learning as I go. A lot of people have told me to remove the spark plugs and pour kerosene into the cylinders, allow it to soak, for weeks possibly, then try slowly over time to turn the engine with the hand crank and see if it budges. If not, then it’s time to start taking it down and see what’s going on.. is the kerosene in the cylinders the best procedure to start? Has anyone freed up an engine this way?

Also, the barn this Z is stored inside is near my grandparent’s diesel tank, so I have diesel nearby if it’s a better alternative than kerosene on freeing one up? Of course, this is just step 1 in a lengthy restoration process. I’m just looking for tips and ideas on freeing my first engine up. Thanks in advance!!

I've freed up a lot of engine in the past. First I make sure the cylinder have no water/coolant in them. Next I fill each cylinder with ATF. Put each plug back in. Then pour as much ATF down the exhaust as you can till it leaks some place and let it sit a week or 3. Then after it has sat pull the plugs out and put a 12 volt battery in and use short fast taps on the starter button and see if it frees up. I had an RTU that was stuck and I had to pull the heads and then put a tablespoon or so of gas in each cylinder on top of the ATF and light it up and let it burn till it goes out and then try the starter again