How to get this part out?

Should I remove the jack stand before I drive off?

OK, I broke it. Now I’m trying to get the broken part out, it seems to be stuck in there pretty good and I can’t get a handle on it to get it out.

Can you think of any tricks to get this out?

I thought of a gear puller, but I need a small one. The 2 ton puller that O’Reilly’s loans is too small.

The Performance Tool Gear Puller is close, but the hook faces the wrong way. I need it to face outward to get it under the round part that I need to get out.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...automotive-truck-2006-ford-f-150?q=140+puller

Do you know of any 2 inch gear puller with teeth facing outward? O’Reilly’s loaner lets you take off a nut and turn the jaws around, but this one doesn’t.

I don't have a welder, that would be a "hiring someone" job

Thank you!
 

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Big chisel with two pound hammer. , pick a spot to start caving it inside to itself. Then go kinda across the circle to another spot.
Start at 2 o clock. Pound in.
Then go to 10 o clock pound in .
Big pump pliers, pull on angle on the caved in areas.
Good luck.

Similar to caving in a sleeve or roller bearing, what's left of a junk bearing....
GG Wes
 
Should I remove the jack stand before I drive off?

OK, I broke it. Now I’m trying to get the broken part out, it seems to be stuck in there pretty good and I can’t get a handle on it to get it out.

Can you think of any tricks to get this out?

I thought of a gear puller, but I need a small one. The 2 ton puller that O’Reilly’s loans is too small.

The Performance Tool Gear Puller is close, but the hook faces the wrong way. I need it to face outward to get it under the round part that I need to get out.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...automotive-truck-2006-ford-f-150?q=140+puller

Do you know of any 2 inch gear puller with teeth facing outward? O’Reilly’s loaner lets you take off a nut and turn the jaws around, but this one doesn’t.

I don't have a welder, that would be a "hiring someone" job

Thank you!
I'd have it peeled out of there with the cutting torch before the German could find his hammer and chisel.
 
Yeah.................cut it in half with a wide kerf. You need to actually cut two wide slots opposite each other with the torch. The wide slots allow the piece to collapse in on itself enough for you to easily pull it out with pliers.

If you keep the torch pointed straight in to the bottom of the hole, it will not cut into the good material. You'll actually see the metal sort of peel away in the slot..........sparing the good material. Rock the torch down into the offending piece, never going beyond perpendicular to the side rail of the trailer/implement. Start the melt on the edge closest to you with the preheat flame, then GENTLY feather the O2 to push the molten metal. Don't squeeze the lever all the way down. Gentle.

Sometimes you don't have to cut a complete slot. Get far enough in there, and you can collapse it with a chisel, or pry bar.
 
If you have a torch try heating it red hot on one side then let it cool to room temp. Should shrink enough to loosen it up enough to get it out. I have removed many broken off pipe nipples and sleeves that way. Good luck with it. 🧑‍🌾
 
@Tree-Farmer

Is that maybe a half inch hole 🕳 that is at the top and bottom?

Can you drop a bolt thru those holes still? And use a crow bar between bolt and implement, top and bottom to get it to budge out?
Spray some slippery stuff in there too.

Or is the stub rotated enough that you could place a steel ball is it that is the same size as the hole?
Then smack the poop out of it with a BFH.
Could do the same from the bottom and use a hydraulic jack to push, id the implement is heavy enough?
Maybe doing the above would collapse the stub down just a bit?
 
I’d beat on the exposed parts with a blacksmith size hammer to wiggle it back and forth, even in a little, which should loosen up whatever is catching and let it come right out.

If that didn’t work I’d try the big chisel and hammer deal to crush in a couple spots as someone described, shouldn’t take much.

It can be relaxing to pound on machinery to free it up, this looks like the perfect project for 2 minutes of relaxation. It’s supposed to slip apart I can’t see that to deformed a whole lot to be hung up, really shouldn’t take much.

The torch is always on standby here and would get it out, but I don’t think id need to wreck the paint and warp the metal for this job.

Paul
 
Does the broken piece reach to hole in the top of the tube? You can try drilling into it then inserting a screwdriver or small prybar and start wiggling it out or pounding with a hammer. But with that torch and welder at my disposal, I wouldn’t do any of that.
 
Should I remove the jack stand before I drive off?

OK, I broke it. Now I’m trying to get the broken part out, it seems to be stuck in there pretty good and I can’t get a handle on it to get it out.

Can you think of any tricks to get this out?

I thought of a gear puller, but I need a small one. The 2 ton puller that O’Reilly’s loans is too small.

The Performance Tool Gear Puller is close, but the hook faces the wrong way. I need it to face outward to get it under the round part that I need to get out.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...automotive-truck-2006-ford-f-150?q=140+puller

Do you know of any 2 inch gear puller with teeth facing outward? O’Reilly’s loaner lets you take off a nut and turn the jaws around, but this one doesn’t.

I don't have a welder, that would be a "hiring someone" job

Thank you!
Have you gotten this out yet?
 
Does the broken piece reach to hole in the top of the tube? You can try drilling into it then inserting a screwdriver or small prybar and start wiggling it out or pounding with a hammer. But with that torch and welder at my disposal, I wouldn’t do any of that.
Continuing along the lines of working with the hole idea, if you can twist the part so that its hole line up with the hole in the tube then I think you can insert something and start pounding it forward and out or even prying. Might need abundant amounts of penetrant to get things moving again.
 
Doesn't that tube go all the way across.? Take the other side out ( hopefully you just broke the one side" Then put the appropriate size piece of pipe in, then hammer it out from the back side.
 
Should I remove the jack stand before I drive off?

OK, I broke it. Now I’m trying to get the broken part out, it seems to be stuck in there pretty good and I can’t get a handle on it to get it out.

Can you think of any tricks to get this out?

I thought of a gear puller, but I need a small one. The 2 ton puller that O’Reilly’s loans is too small.

The Performance Tool Gear Puller is close, but the hook faces the wrong way. I need it to face outward to get it under the round part that I need to get out.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...automotive-truck-2006-ford-f-150?q=140+puller

Do you know of any 2 inch gear puller with teeth facing outward? O’Reilly’s loaner lets you take off a nut and turn the jaws around, but this one doesn’t.

I don't have a welder, that would be a "hiring someone" job

Thank you!
I think it is being wedged into the socket by the bent Segment too the right. It appears to be cast, so whacking that inward could loosen the whole thing. Jim
 
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