How to remove overrunning clutch

I need to put a new pto shaft in my ford 601. The gearbox is leaking oil there. The tractor came with an overrunning clutch on it when I got it and I would like to take it off to see what size my pto shaft is. some of the new ones you buy says it converts it to a larger size. would like to have the same size pto shaft so that I dont have to buy a new overrunning clutch to fit it.
 
You should have two grease fittings or either one grease fitting and a screw plug on other side, remove both on both sides and then spin the over run coupler until you can see the pin inside then tap it out and coupler will slide off of the pto shaft
 
Overrunning clutches are inexpensive and have a limited life so I would just replace it along with new shaft. It can put you in a real bind if it unexpectedly fails.
 
First things first, how do you know know your pto shaft is bad? If the seal is leaking then remove the over-run coupler and pop the seal out and replace it, quick and easy to do. Second, there is no reason to replace the over-run coupler if it is still functional, keep it greased and will last a long time, I've never seen a cheap over-run coupler so I wouldn't just replace it to be doing so, those things costs about $65 in my neck of the woods, keep it lubed up...
 
Who cares if it has live PTO? Guy just wants to know how to remove the ORC.

To the OP: grayrider has it right.
 
There's a good chance your tractor has already been converted to the heavier 1-3/8" induction-hardened PTO shaft. Only the internal section of the shaft is larger; the stub sticking out the rear of the tractor is still a standard 550 rpm shaft.

The time to replace your PTO shaft is when it breaks. Or if your oil leak is due to a bad bearing, you might as well change it out because the new shaft comes with a new bearing and housing. But you do need to get the ORC off to replace the bad seal. It's probably just rusted in place. I assume you've managed to get the lock pin depressed all the way; if so it should come off with a crowbar. Worst case you may need to put some heat on it, but that will probably wreck the ORC and finish off your bad seal.
 

NO ONE has said..

you have to remove the grease fitting on one side and a plug on the other side to drive out the roll pin so the orc will come off the shaft.
 
(quoted from post at 12:16:37 10/29/15)
NO ONE has said..

you have to remove the grease fitting on one side and a plug on the other side to drive out the roll pin so the orc will come off the shaft.

First reply (Grayrider's) said that.

I've also seen more modern ones that have a spring loaded release button.

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(quoted from post at 22:28:54 10/29/15)
(quoted from post at 17:41:12 10/29/15) I have been told if you have live power then you don't need an overriding clutch.

He will need an ORC with the 601 Ford tractor

grayrider - You are correct if by "live power" yu actually mean live PTO. Live power could mean live hydraulics, which have nothing to do with the PTO.

pinball - Depends on which 601 tractor it is. 601 is a series, and within that series there were a few models that would not require an ORC. The 661 had a 5 speed transmission with live PTO and would not need an ORC. The 671 and 681 both had the Select-O-Speed with independent PTO and would not need an ORC.
 
This tractor doesn't have live pto. It def needs ORC. The first time I tried to remove it I didn't know there was a pin in there. Should be more successful this next time. I think it is leaking from the bearing seal. Would like to go ahead and replace the whole shaft to make sure I get it fixed the easiest and more complete way. Plus there is some chatter when first starting the bush hog, may be the blades I don't know. But there is also some play in the pto shaft. seems like it may be worn out anyway. My next question is there anything special I need to know about replacing that shaft? Just drain the diff oil, remove the bolts and cover plate on the end around pto, and then just slide the old one out and the new one in?
 
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