husker44a

[danny in darketown]

got the carb adjusted best i could. i could not move the load needle. letting it soak a while in blaster but i did play with the idle. it was open 2 plus turns. its about 1 and 3/4 turns now, if i turned it back any more than that it would die out and after adjusting the clutch, 2 castle positions on each, i could take off like you said in 6th gear. then when i got it warmed up i changed the oil. saddened when i seen what came out. water at first, on both the drain plug and the filter and the oil was gray not black. lord only knows how long it was in there. hoping it was condensation and not a cracked block, but that seems like alot to hope for. no loss of water from the radiater??? will keep an eye on that.need to check the lube in the tranny next.

 

[Husker44A]

Sounds like you are making headway. Let the load needle soak a while then try it. If if dont work try some heat. As for the water in the oil. That is very common in these tractors because the trans/diff housing is cast iron. I would still keep an eye on the radiator tho.

 

[danny in draketown]

u from nebraska i'm in west ga

 

[Husker44A]

Ya Western Nebraska.

 

[Husker44A]

Sounds to me like your carb is still plugged. If you can screw Idle needle in until it seats and wants to die then your LOAD passage is still plugged. When you get that load needle out take the carb apart again and clean that passage way. When the carb is clean you should be able to screw Idle needle in untill seated and the tractor should continue to run but the carb will have a throttling effect. If it don't and wants to die then your LOAD passage is plugged. Reset your IDLE back where it was then, try turning you load needle in. IF the tractor still wants to die then your IDLE passage is still gummed up somewhere..Good Luck and let us know. This is all done with the engine up to operating temp and at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE. Set the brakes tight and make sure the trans is in NUETRAL...Not good if it happens to pop into gear somehow.