Hyd question for the experts

[okie8n]

My question is using Travellers gl-1 90w mineral lube ok to use in my live Hyds. My tractor is a 51 model sidemount and I am using Zanes live thang. I just just swapped it from my 50 sidemount where I was using travelers UTF don't want to screw up the pump. Using the GL-1 my pump is making a loud noise until it warms up good but it is less touchy to use than the UTF. Thanks for you alls help in advance

 

[Dean]

GL-1 is appropriate for an 8N but an 8N does not have live hydraulics and does not need a "live thang" as position control is standard equipment.

Dean

 

[markct]

Live thang adds live hydraulic not position control

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 21:28:45 04/18/16) My question is using Travellers gl-1 90w mineral lube ok to use in my live Hyds. My tractor is a 51 model sidemount and I am using Zanes live thang. I just just swapped it from my 50 sidemount where I was using travelers UTF don't want to screw up the pump. Using the GL-1 my pump is making a loud noise until it warms up good but it is less touchy to use than the UTF. Thanks for you alls help in advance

I don't speak for Zane but the last time I looked at his information he was telling people the same thing I tell them - when you add an engine driven pump you should use a UTF type hydraulic oil. That noise you hear is cavitation caused by excessive pressure drop (vacuum) at the inlet port. A UTF has much better cold flow characteristics than a mono-grade SAE 90 gear oil and will minimze the pressure drop. Even warm you are going to get cavitation which is one of the leading causes of premature pump failure and one of the subtle problems Harry Ferguson failed to understand when he designed his suction side hydraulic control system. The following is a snippet showing cavitation erosion in a pump. You can read the full article here:

[u:f497cd20e7]Pop the Cavitation Bubble in Hydraulic Systems[/u:f497cd20e7]

[b:f497cd20e7]What Triggers Cavitation?[/b:f497cd20e7]

[b:f497cd20e7]Fig. 2[/b:f497cd20e7] - [i:f497cd20e7]This image shows cavitation of an axial-piston pump. It starts at the end of the gland cut and propagates across the pressure surface all the way to the outlet port, where some deep pitting has occurred in the surface of the metal.

As previously stated, the leading causes of cavitation in hydraulic systems are improper pump suction-line configurations and the use of filters or strainers. When configuring a pump suction line, the goal is to minimize the pressure drop into pump.[/i:f497cd20e7]

 

[souNdguy]

I aree.. with a seperate pump, I'd use utf...

 

[okie8n]

Thanks for the replies everybody I appreciate it very much.

 

[okie8n]

Thank you for the snippet. When I was active duty AF I was a fuel systems guy and never got into the Hyd world much so it is a stranger to me. I do have one more question for you and that is what travelers brand of UTF do you recommend as TSC is about the only true farm ranch I have close by. The nearest CNH is about 60 miles away. thanks in advance Buck

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 17:19:44 04/19/16) Thank you for the snippet. When I was active duty AF I was a fuel systems guy and never got into the Hyd world much so it is a stranger to me. I do have one more question for you and that is what travelers brand of UTF do you recommend as TSC is about the only true farm ranch I have close by. The nearest CNH is about 60 miles away. thanks in advance Buck

You can get good quality generic UTF's at just about any auto parts place as well as Walmart/Sams. Regardless of the brand they are all going to work just as good in your N-series as the high dollar stuff you get at CNH. The Traveler Premium UTF is what I buy at TSC. Regardless of where you buy it avoid anything with "303" or "economy" on the label.

TOH

 

[okie8n]

Thanks The Old Hokie that is what I will be running from now on I appreciate it

 

[ZANE]

My instruction with the kit states to use 134.

Never 90W

Zane

 

[Ken(Ark)]

You can get good quality generic UTF's at just about any auto parts place as well as Walmart/Sams. Regardless of the brand they are all going to work just as good in your N-series as the high dollar stuff you get at CNH. The Traveler Premium UTF is what I buy at TSC. Regardless of where you buy it avoid anything with "303" or "economy" on the label.

TOH

I bought a 3000 a few weeks ago and changed the dirty fluid with 303 from Atwoods because it was $20 for 5 gal . I think I will go buy the $30 5 gal pail which meets the John Deere specs . Thanks for the info .

I will save the clean used 303 for temporarily testing / flushing the next N project before filling with the better stuff .

 

[Hobo,NC]

@20 for 5 gal that makes for a cheap flush...

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 21:55:07 04/19/16)

You can get good quality generic UTF's at just about any auto parts place as well as Walmart/Sams. Regardless of the brand they are all going to work just as good in your N-series as the high dollar stuff you get at CNH. The Traveler Premium UTF is what I buy at TSC. Regardless of where you buy it avoid anything with "303" or "economy" on the label.

TOH

I bought a 3000 a few weeks ago and changed the dirty fluid with 303 from Atwoods because it was $20 for 5 gal . I think I will go buy the $30 5 gal pail which meets the John Deere specs . Thanks for the info .

I will save the clean used 303 for temporarily testing / flushing the next N project before filling with the better stuff .

John Deere 303 is a very old hydraulic oil specification that Deere has disavowed for quite some time. I assume you mean the current John Deere J20C or J20D specifications. J20C is John Deere Hy-Grad which is Deere's equivalent to Ford M2C-134D. The J20D is a low viscosity Hy-Gard intended primarily for hydrostatic transmissions that don't like the heavier J20C or as a cold weather substitute for J20C in common sump applications. It's about one grade lower in viscosity than J20C/M2C-134D (e.g. 7.0 cSt@100C versus 9.6 cSt@100C)

TOH