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hydraulic issue

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nothead14-HT

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when my ym2000 tractor is cold the lift works find,the longer i run the tractor the lift it gets where it won't go up. Is fluid breaking down or is the pump not pumping good enough. I cleaned screen and replaced fluid. I have to work on value under the seat, it was sticking not letting lift go down. i Have that fixed. Piston was sticking in housing.Polished piston and housing a little to get it smooth and free.
 
Stupid question I guess but did you use hydraulic/transmission fluid? Will it pick up a big load when the fluid is cold?
 
picks up 4 ft bug hog and 4 ft tiller and does it for awhile maybe an hour and then it tries to pick up and raises a few inches and will not pick up bush hog from ground. Filter cleaned and fluid changed. Never had pump apart. does it have any orings or screens that might be stopping up or can pump get weaker after fluid is hotter and thinner maybe? can the pump pump less when the oil is hotter?
 
My <U><s></s>guess<e></e></U> would be that your oil might be getting aerated. This usually happens when the rubber section of the suction hose gets loose or cracks. Oil might not leak out but it can suck air in. Does the oil start to look white or foamy when the three point stops working?
 
seems like i remember it looking like that. I was wondering why. Though is that got water in it. I went out an looked at the small piece of rubber hose. It looks old.
 
I still have the issue with my lift not working after the fluid gets hot. I let it cool down and it will pick up. Is the fluid breaking down,Is the pump not pumping when fluid is hot? Can anyone tell me what the solution is?
 
The fluid does not "break down" temporarily. Only your on-site inspection can determine if the pump is pumping, or where the fluid is going. Any squealing? You may have to open and clean all valves.
 
Cleaned valve,strainer,replaced short hydraulic hose,replaced fluid with JD303.What else to check? How can I check pump? Any way to put gauge in line to check pressure? Not sure what else to do. Can you buy a kit for the pump?
 
Loosen a high pressure line and start it. See if it sprays fluid, (Stay out of the way). all valves are in the parts book
 
i guess I can loosen the high pressure side when it's hot to see if it's pumping,but I don't know how much it's suppose to pump. Any idea of pressure amount,and can I put a gauge in line?
I don't have book.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by that. Are there any valves to adjust or do you mean the pressure on the return line is 2200? I have a yanmar ym2000. I'm not getting any closer to an answer.Sorry to bother you. Not sure what to so here.
 
<QUOTE author="nothead14"><s>
</s>I'm not sure what you mean by that. Are there any valves to adjust or do you mean the pressure on the return line is 2200? I have a yanmar ym2000. I'm not getting any closer to an answer.Sorry to bother you. Not sure what to so here.<e>
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/e></QUOTE>

You had asked how much pressure it was suppose to have? The 240 and 2000 have basically the same hydraulic system. I am saying the pump should put out over 2200 psi if you were wanting to check pressure on it. Are you confident the system is not getting air in it now as Aaron had mentioned earlier?
 
New fluid does not rule out air getting in. You should be able to look in the fill hole after running and determine if the fluid has air in it. Probably not, just checking.

I believe you can install a pressure gauge at reference #24 if you can determine thread size. Thinking it is 18mm and not for sure that is the location of the plug on your 2000. It may be on the side of the piston cover.

Have you pulled and inspected the relief valve? Reference #38.

http://www.hoyetractor.com/CTGY/2000HYDLIFT.htm
 
I have not pulled the relief valve out at all. What do I look for when I pull it out? I've only took the valve off the top right under the seat and went through it.I replaced that short 4 inch hose in the line. Haven't taken the pump off to check anything.Do you think I need to check anything with the pump?
Thanks,
Ken
 
I would not pull the pump until you have eliminated all other suggestions. I would look for a place to connect a temporary hose that might be stuck in the fill hole for checking rather than pumping out on the ground or maybe stick the end of ref #11 in a bucket. http://www.hoyetractor.com/CTGY/2000HYDRAULIC.htm

You would look for trash in the valve, broken spring, anything that might cause it to leak by before the 2200 psi set pressure.

Does your fluid no longer look like it has air in it?
 
fluid looks fine when it gets hot. I talked with a dealer that's worked on yammers a long time. he told me not to put hydraulic/transmission fluid in it. he said it gets too thin. I changed it and it did better but it did not solve my problem. i don't know if anyone has the ability to solve this issue. Did you see my post about the o-ring for the screen. I have no idea where it goes.It has gasket at the flange. If you put it where the filter start from the flange end,you have to tighten the bolts to make flange pull up. Is that where it goes? Is it for the purpose of sealing off the 2 sections where the filter goes in? Anyone know?
 
Can the value under the seat have a piston too loose and the fluid is getting by when it should not? Is there anything else under the valve
under the seat that needs to be taken apart. Pulled the hydraulic pump apart and the gears look good. Replaced o-rings.What else to take apart?
 
I have the same ym2000 tractor with the same problem. I have been lurking in the background and reading all the good ideas for months, I work the tractor about an hour and go to the shop and let it cool down. I replaced my pump and have the same problem. I switched my o-ring to the edge of the screen and the gasket and three bolts keeps the oil from leaking. I am about out of ideas to check for an internal leak without a tear down.
 
Took the relief valve apart-looked good. I'm in process of tearing apart the piston for the lift and replacing the orings. I guess no one out there is smart enough to fix this issue. Maybe only simple things that don't give much trouble. I'm amazed that no one has a solution.
 
Not really sure what to say from your last post. Many ideas/suggestions have been given to you to possibly find your problem. The guys and girls that respond to peoples problems on this site do so to help. Many things, minor and major have been corrected by their comments. That being said, I really have to take exception to your comments in your last post. Reading this post from the start I'm not sure if you are doing what has been suggested to you. Your hydro oil change comes to mind. The responders are only trying to help you.
Sorry Aaron, my button was pushed. Feel free to delete this post if you think I was out of line posting it.
 
I totally agree with DersertDave. This site's aim is to help people with YM tractors, it may not be possible all the time to find solutions, but members will try. The help given by Winston, Norm, Alan and other members should be appreciated and not bad mouthed.
 
I apoligize. I'm not 100% sure what people put post on here. I didn't know it was just people who had past experiences with there problems. Sorry for the miss understanding and thank you for the suggestions.
 
Apology accepted by me anyway. You can look at all the Hoye parts drawings on your hydraulics and see all the components. If your fluid is correct and you are confident you are not sucking air then it has to be either a bad pump, or something allowing leak by. Just unable to pin point what from here.
 
I see 3 valves on the YM2000 hydraulic system. how many have you disassembled, inspected and cleaned/repaired?
 
Cleaned the one on the top under the seat, just took the one off the front under the seat where you can turn the handle to lock it in the up position. the one that has the check valve(I think that what it is) Didn't see much wrong,the orings looked or not cut/damaged. I ordered the o-ring for the piston that goes to the arms for the three point hitch. I'm not sure if it's bleeding by there. I'm not exactly sure how the check valve and the valve
that sets on top works. Sometimes I have to flip the little handle on the side of that valve to get it to go up.Need help!! Anyone please!!
 
May have already answered this but wondering. When you raise the 3 point with a load and kill the tractor will the lift stay up, slowly leak down or plummet?
 
<QUOTE author="nothead14"><s>
</s>leaks down fairly fast but not drop<e>
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/e></QUOTE>
Probably not the only problem but if leaking down fairly fast it sure won't hurt to change the lift piston o-ring. I see you have it ordered.
 
" Sometimes I have to flip the little handle on the side of that valve to get it to go up."
That handle is supposed to be set to control the drop speed. I like mine set for about a 2 sec. drop. Could be a problem there.
 
The valve in the top has an oring where the valve bolts on. this oring was blown again when I pulled it off. Is there a reason it keeps blowing out?
 
Yes #25 is correct. I'm not sure about thickness of the gasket. I made one. Maybe too thick? Do you know what it should be?
 
<QUOTE author="nothead14"><s>
</s>Yes #25 is correct. I'm not sure about thickness of the gasket. I made one. Maybe too thick? Do you know what it should be?<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

No, I don't but would guess it to be pretty thin, about 1/32".
 
Replaced the Oring and plastic ring on the piston attached to the three point arms. Cylinder was a little scratched. Polished it a little and put back together. Oring and plastic ring looked worn but this did not solve my problem. I've taken everything apart and looked and cleaned and replaced items.Where can I install a gauge to check hydraulic pressure? Don't know anything else to do but check pressure.
 
You should have an 18mm plug (#24) on the copied drawing. It could be on the side of #21. I have a parts list that shows it there. In any event, the I&amp;T manual says that is where you put a gage to test pressure. If your system was in top order you would only get the amount of pressure being required. http://www.hoyetractor.com/CTGY/2000HYDLIFT.htm

Take this next part at your own risk. I would not hesitate to do it but that doesn't make it correct nor does it mean you won't harm your system. I would "slowly" close the stop valve with the tractor idling and listen for the pump to start loading up (mainly heard in engine loading up). If it does load up that would prove to me there is nothing wrong with your pump. Do not close it to the point of doing harm to your pump.

The I&amp;T manual says the relief valve will go off on the the 135, 155, 195, 240 and 330 when you close the stop valve and pull the lift handle up. My 2002 relief valve will relieve at about 2100psi when doing this. However, I have heard of people destroying their pumps on the 1700 and 2000 greys so proceed with caution.
 
Thanks for taking your time to try to help me.I will get a gauge and check the pressure. I will be out of town next week so it will be the following week.I'm nor exactly sure if the check valve is working the right way. Can you tell me what it's actually how it should work?
 
<QUOTE author="nothead14"><s>
</s>Thanks for taking your time to try to help me.I will get a gauge and check the pressure. I will be out of town next week so it will be the following week.I'm nor exactly sure if the check valve is working the right way. Can you tell me what it's actually how it should work?<e>
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/e></QUOTE>

My ignorance may be showing. Not sure what we are talking about with the term "check valve".
 
Sorry-I meant relief valve.
I put a hydraulic gauge in.When you lift the handle the pressure goes to 800-1000 psi,then slowly increases to 1900psi.The lift starts picking up at 1200psi and it will stay up as long as the tractor speed stays the same.
After letting it up and down the lift gets to where it takes longer and longer to increase pressure.Sometimes it doesn't. The pump gears looked good and I replaced the o_rings in it. The filter has been cleaned.I've done everything possible that I know of. Would it be the pump even if everything looked good when I had it apart? Could the relief valve be letting fluid leak by somehow?. I took it apart but nothing was stopped up and the spring and ball looked OK. I hate to purchase a pump just to see if that is it.Help!!!!!
 
After letting it up and down the lift gets to where it takes longer and longer to increase pressure.Sometimes it doesn't.

The "sometimes it doesn't" would nearly take the pump out of the equation in my opinion. Are you afraid to try slowly closing the stop valve and watching the pressure gauge as I mentioned in an earlier post.
Click to expand...
 
I have the same tractor and had same problems. I replaced the springs in all of the valves and tightened up some slack or wear in the three point control system that works the control valve. I have two hours working the pond scoop so far and it works like it was supposed to. I believe 35-40 year old worn parts and springs was my main problem, good luck with yours. Thanks Norm and Winston for your time.
 
I put a hydraulic gauge in and found that the pressure was not good enough all the time.I think I solved the problem with a new pump. I had some valve sticking issues but I'm almost sure the new pump solved the lift problem. thanks for your support. Hope this may help someone.
 
Does anyone know where to find a rebuild kit/piston for the hydraulic valve under the seat? Or where to find a good price on a new valve?

Also does anyone know how that valve works? Can the relief/pressure valve cause loss of pressure if malfunction occurs? Or does it rarely give problems? I still have pressure issues after the fluid gets hot but I'm not sure if the value is working correctly.
 
Yes, relief valve leak by could cause loss of pressure. Ken yn2000 gave some good advice on things that worked for him. I don't think rebuild kits are available for the control valve and I doubt you will find a much better price than this. http://www.hoyetractor.com/PROD/HV-451.htm I believe the control valve relies mainly on very close metal to metal tolerances. only a couple of o-rings in there. Why not take it apart and inspect, maybe replace the $ 2.09 spring and the couple of o-rings and maybe the seal. None of those parts are expensive. Of course if the metal to metal tolerances are gone you could be wasting time. Only being there to examine can determine that.
 
i have taken that valve apart a dozen times. It was sticking and the plunger was scared. I had to polish the plunger and the housing to free it up. there may be to much space between the plunger and housing. I'm going to order a new one.Thanks,ken
 
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