Hydraulic question

[1dawg]

I am trying to get a 1969 Ford 3000 diesel tractor back operational, it has sat for at least 6 years maybe more. This is my first tractor and I have some help, but we are not sure about hydraulic systems. Once we got the tractor running, I started cycling the 3 point lift control and it was not working. After a little bit it blew the seal between the pump and back plate. I got that replaced yesterday and put more fluid in but the 3point hitch still does not operate. I am wondering do I need to bleed the system of air and if so how best do I do that? If not where should I look for the issue? I am not sure what other information is needed so I apologize in advance if I have not given enough detail. Also the tractor PTO does operate, it is a live PTO with an 8 speed manual transmission if that is pertinent.

 

[Eman85]

Does it have anything hooked to the hydraulic system like a valve under the seat for remotes?

 

[1dawg]

It does not, the only thing that seems added that I am not aware what it is for is in the attached picture. It is that part bolted on behind the shifters. Under the front of the seat. I think this is an add on part, also there has been a pressure gage added on the side of the pump. You can see it in the second picture.

 

[Majorman]

The plate behind the shifters is an Auxiliary Service Chest. There should be a knob on the shaft that sticks out which allows you to pull the selector out. It has three positions, 1. In = Hydraulic linkage only, 2. Half way = Hydraulic linkage and external service and 3. Fully out = External service. The External Service tapping for trailer tipping or other items, is the plug on top. If external services are being used, then Draft Control should be selected to avoid accidents. I have experienced loads of grain being tipped into the road when Position Control is being used, you do not have control of the hydraulics in this situation.

 

[1dawg]

Thank you majorman. If I understand you correctly, there would be a line that comes out of this unit somewhere that control the trailer or whatever? Like a rear remote type thing?

 

[Sean in PA]

Thank you majorman. If I understand you correctly, there would be a line that comes out of this unit somewhere that control the trailer or whatever? Like a rear remote type thing?

The port where a line would connect is currently plugged by that large hex head plug on top.

 

[1dawg]

One more question about this, would this also work as a rear remote for implements like a hydraulic top link? Also does anyone have a picture or part number for the port?

 

[1dawg]

also this auxiliary service chest would not affect the 3point not working correct? Also should I bleed the system to get it working or should I look for another reason why my lift is not functioning?

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

That valve will operate a single acting cylinder. I used it to raise my mower-conditioner. The lift has to be set to draft control. The control handle up will raise and down will lower but there will be a neutral position somewhere in the range. It seemed that neutral position had to do with where the lift arms were when the valve spool was pulled. My valve is two-position, not three like Majorman said. I would lower the arms a few inches from full up then pull the valve spool. There's no "feel" for the neutral spot so it helps to have a stop in the quadrant at that spot. Pull the lever around the stop and down to lower, full up to raise then return to the stop and it will hold. At least that's how I used it. A hydraulic top link is double-acting.

 

[paul]

That valve will operate a single acting cylinder. I used it to raise my mower-conditioner. The lift has to be set to draft control. The control handle up will raise and down will lower but there will be a neutral position somewhere in the range. It seemed that neutral position had to do with where the lift arms were when the valve spool was pulled. My valve is two-position, not three like Majorman said. I would lower the arms a few inches from full up then pull the valve spool. There's no "feel" for the neutral spot so it helps to have a stop in the quadrant at that spot. Pull the lever around the stop and down to lower, full up to raise then return to the stop and it will hold. At least that's how I used it. A hydraulic top link is double-acting.

Isn’t everyone avoiding the man’s problem? It sure sounds like he has that knob in the wrong position and it is trying to activate the non existing remote cylinder instead of running the 3pt?

I’ve never seen a setup like that so wouldn’t have known either.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Isn’t everyone avoiding the man’s problem? It sure sounds like he has that knob in the wrong position and it is trying to activate the non existing remote cylinder instead of running the 3pt?

I’ve never seen a setup like that so wouldn’t have known either.

The spool that should have a knob is IN which should operate the lift. OUT directs the fluid to the port where the big plug is. That would trigger the relief valve.

 

[Btzj02]

It does not, the only thing that seems added that I am not aware what it is for is in the attached picture. It is that part bolted on behind the shifters. Under the front of the seat. I think this is an add on part, also there has been a pressure gage added on the side of the pump. You can see it in the second picture.

That added pressure gage makes me think that the PO was losing pump prime. After your repair does the 3 point still work and are you getting an oil pressure reading on the gage? If not, try and prime the pump by blowing air into the hydraulic oil reservoir dipstick opening.

 

[1dawg]

Isn’t everyone avoiding the man’s problem? It sure sounds like he has that knob in the wrong position and it is trying to activate the non existing remote cylinder instead of running the 3pt?

I’ve never seen a setup like that so wouldn’t have known either.

Sorry, I was not clear. I do understand the lever on the right fender controls the lift. I got distracted by the other feature because I thought it might serve as a rear remote of sorts. The lift does not function using the lever.

 

[1dawg]

That added pressure gage makes me think that the PO was losing pump prime. After your repair does the 3 point still work and are you getting an oil pressure reading on the gage? If not, try and prime the pump by blowing air into the hydraulic oil reservoir dipstick opening.the lift does not work, the gage does not show pressure and yesterday when I went to try some more things, I found that with the tractor running if I loosen the gage I was not getting any fluid leak.

When you say loosing prime, I am not sure if it was primed to begin with. I need to state that all I did was remove the back plate clean off the old gasket and reassemble the plate(after a ton of frustration and lost springs). That is why I wondered if it had to have air bleed out. How would I prime this?

 

[1dawg]

I got distracted at work, I see where you said how to prime it. I will try that today after work. Thank you

 

[1dawg]

I tried priming it with air, but that did not work. I believe I am going to carry it back to my brother in law and just save to buy a tractor that works. Thank you again to all.

 

[Btzj02]

I tried priming it with air, but that did not work. I believe I am going to carry it back to my brother in law and just save to buy a tractor that works. Thank you again to all.

These tractors were great tractors when new but many of these Old Fords have been neglected for years. The attraction to many of us is that we like to tinker and enjoy working on these old machines. I will have to say that the first thing I do is buy the Owners Manual, Parts Manual and Shop Manual knowing that I will need them to fix the Tractor correctly and keep it running. As you can see with your Hydraulic problem there usually is more than one thing wrong with a system on the tractor, especially if it has been sitting for years, and it may require a lot of trouble shooting, patience and research just to understand what is going on.