Hydraulic top link

[jmcdaniel505]

Maybe a dumb question? Do my hydraulics on my 58 Ford 871 need to be functioning in order to use a hydraulic top link?

 

[Janicholson]

Yes, or you must use a PTO pump. but the 3pt is needed to utilize the top link for its intended purpose. Jim

 

[Dean]

Maybe a dumb question? Do my hydraulics on my 58 Ford 871 need to be functioning in order to use a hydraulic top link?

Yes, and you will need a remote hydraulic valve.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

I'm curious as to why you would need one if the hydraulics don't work......

 

[jmcdaniel505]

I was hoping it was an alternative since I can’t get my hydraulics working

 

[WESnIL]

Yes, working hydraulics are mandatory. The hydraulic top link is an awesome combination with up and down functioning of the 3 point. It is especially useful with a box scraper (box blade) as it allows loading a box blade to move dirt from one location to another, cutting of high spots or filling of low spots. IMHO it is mandatory when doing lawn grading work.

 

[Jim.ME]

Maybe a dumb question? Do my hydraulics on my 58 Ford 871 need to be functioning in order to use a hydraulic top link?

Not a dumb question if you don't understand how the 3-point hitch components work together.

The three-point arms perform the actual lifting of the implements. A top link, both manual screw type or hydraulic type, only provides front to rear leveling an implement as it lengthens or shortens. It is a fixed point between the mast of an implement and its attaching point on the tractor. The shortening will tip the back of an implement up and lengthening it will tip the back down as the lifted implement pivots on the pins in the lift arms. It will not lift an implement off the ground, as the lift arms to, it maintains the distance from the tractor to the implement mast, so that when the arms lift the front of an implement the back comes up as the mast has to remain at the set distance from the tractor. You need working hydraulics to lift the implement, then a hydraulic toplink can level it during operation, compared to having to stop to make an adjustment when using a manual screw type top link, to get the most work out of something like a box blade.

 

[jmcdaniel505]

Not a dumb question if you don't understand how the 3-point hitch components work together.

The three-point arms perform the actual lifting of the implements. A top link, both manual screw type or hydraulic type, only provides front to rear leveling an implement as it lengthens or shortens. It is a fixed point between the mast of an implement and its attaching point on the tractor. The shortening will tip the back of an implement up and lengthening it will tip the back down as the lifted implement pivots on the pins in the lift arms. It will not lift an implement off the ground, as the lift arms to, it maintains the distance from the tractor to the implement mast, so that when the arms lift the front of an implement the back comes up as the mast has to remain at the set distance from the tractor. You need working hydraulics to lift the implement, then a hydraulic toplink can level it during operation, compared to having to stop to make an adjustment when using a manual screw type top link, to get the most work out of something like a box blade.

Oh.. thank you for the detailed explanation! I did not know how it all worked…thanks again.

 

[used red MN]

I was hoping it was an alternative since I can’t get my hydraulics working

What is wrong with the hydraulics. If you provide more information maybe we can help you fix them.

 

[jmcdaniel505]

The lift doesn’t work at all. It used to work sporadically, and after changing the fluid, not at all. Going to try to bleed it, but I’m thinking it’s probably a bigger issue. Is there anyway that I can test the pump pressure?

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Here's a post I found on another forum. This suggests that maybe you have a stuck unloading valve:

"IMHO.. you are looking in the wrong place.

Remember.. that system uses an unloading valve.

when the 3pt lift lever is down, oil passes from the pump thru the valving right back to sump.

My guess is that your unloading valve is stuck / sticky.. probably from dirty oil.

Normally you could check pressure by chaining the 3pt lift arms down to the axles, plumbing in a gauge at the option cover ( 3x5 cover with a big ole pipe plug in it ) and then rais the lift lever and see wht pressur ethe pump was making at relief.

with yor results of no pressure, then that makes me think oil is going right back to sump.

If it was me.. I'd drin the oil, flush with some diesel and work the 3pt handle, then refill with clean oil and see what you have.

If that didn't do it, I'd pull the lift cover... just pull the bolts around the edge and disconnect the 3pt linkage and she pops right off. The kit of orings and the gasket costs about 13 bucks at your dealer or online.

Up until a year ago I had only 'helped' do one 00/01 hyd cover, and then had to do the top cover on my 660. With a lil info from the smart guys like RickB, and a couple other posters, it was really.. no problem, way easier than i was expecting. I've rebuilt 9-2-8N covers and pumps before no problem.. but the 00/01 cover is different.

In any cases.. it just wasn't a real bad job.. mostly cleaning and reoringing .. etc.

if you are fast and the 3pt linkage doesn't fight you coming apart.. i figure a 2 hour job start to finish.

Hopefully the flush and refill will get you going..

post back what you find after the flush.

soundguy"

 

[jmcdaniel505]

Thanks for the info and your opinion! I’m new to tractors and appreciate the help.. how much diesel should I put in the case?
Then just let it sit and operate the lift lever w motor off?

 

[paul]

It is very common for my hyd pump on my 960 Ford to lose prime if you change fluid or otherwise disrupt the level of the oil.

I would start with priming it. I would do so sooner than later, I think you don’t want it running for months without oil getting through it!

Would be a very common, simple, no cost fix.

Even if you need to call in help and pay a few bucks to get it primed.

Save a major repair bill later if you let it go.

Paul

 

[jmcdaniel505]

It is very common for my hyd pump on my 960 Ford to lose prime if you change fluid or otherwise disrupt the level of the oil.

I would start with priming it. I would do so sooner than later, I think you don’t want it running for months without oil getting through it!

Would be a very common, simple, no cost fix.

Even if you need to call in help and pay a few bucks to get it primed.

Save a major repair bill later if you let it go.

Paul

I bought a nipple that screws into top of pump (bleeder hole) and some hose. Should I just let it bubble out into a bottle until it has no more air? I also have a vacuum bleeder for car brakes, not sure if I can pull air out in the same way? Any tips for bleeding? Thx

 

[paul]

I bought a nipple that screws into top of pump (bleeder hole) and some hose. Should I just let it bubble out into a bottle until it has no more air? I also have a vacuum bleeder for car brakes, not sure if I can pull air out in the same way? Any tips for bleeding? Thx

Mine is the older vane pump, I think yours is the rotary pump so my experience might not apply.

On the vane pump I take the little set screw out, pump a couple pumps of oil into the hole with an oil can, and it primes itself and pumps through the rest of the bit of air and works again.

I’m sure the rotary pump is a bit different see what others say.

 

[jmcdaniel505]

Here's a post I found on another forum. This suggests that maybe you have a stuck unloading valve:

"IMHO.. you are looking in the wrong place.

Remember.. that system uses an unloading valve.

when the 3pt lift lever is down, oil passes from the pump thru the valving right back to sump.

My guess is that your unloading valve is stuck / sticky.. probably from dirty oil.

Normally you could check pressure by chaining the 3pt lift arms down to the axles, plumbing in a gauge at the option cover ( 3x5 cover with a big ole pipe plug in it ) and then rais the lift lever and see wht pressur ethe pump was making at relief.

with yor results of no pressure, then that makes me think oil is going right back to sump.

If it was me.. I'd drin the oil, flush with some diesel and work the 3pt handle, then refill with clean oil and see what you have.

If that didn't do it, I'd pull the lift cover... just pull the bolts around the edge and disconnect the 3pt linkage and she pops right off. The kit of orings and the gasket costs about 13 bucks at your dealer or online.

Up until a year ago I had only 'helped' do one 00/01 hyd cover, and then had to do the top cover on my 660. With a lil info from the smart guys like RickB, and a couple other posters, it was really.. no problem, way easier than i was expecting. I've rebuilt 9-2-8N covers and pumps before no problem.. but the 00/01 cover is different.

In any cases.. it just wasn't a real bad job.. mostly cleaning and reoringing .. etc.

if you are fast and the 3pt linkage doesn't fight you coming apart.. i figure a 2 hour job start to finish.

Hopefully the flush and refill will get you going..

post back what you find after the flush.

soundguy"

Just ordered o ring kit.

Mine is the older vane pump, I think yours is the rotary pump so my experience might not apply.

On the vane pump I take the little set screw out, pump a couple pumps of oil into the hole with an oil can, and it primes itself and pumps through the rest of the bit of air and works again.

I’m sure the rotary pump is a bit different see what others say

Update: I bled the system and the lift is now moving! It only comes up about halfway and shutters on the way up? Any suggestions?

 

[used red MN]

Just ordered o ring kit.

Update: I bled the system and the lift is now moving! It only comes up about halfway and shutters on the way up? Any suggestions?

Can you have a friend stand on the 3 point while you lift it? This would tell us if it is developing any real pressure. Do you have rear remotes (hydraulic outlet) with separate leavers to operate them? I would think so since you asked about a hydraulic top link. If you do, operate the levers with nothing plugged in known as “dead heading” This should make some additional whining or buzzing noise and pull on the engine if it is making usable hydraulic pressure.

 

[jmcdaniel505]

Can you have a friend stand on the 3 point while you lift it? This would tell us if it is developing any real pressure. Do you have rear remotes (hydraulic outlet) with separate leavers to operate them? I would think so since you asked about a hydraulic top link. If you do, operate the levers with nothing plugged in known as “dead heading” This should make some additional whining or buzzing noise and pull on the engine if it is making usable hydraulic pressure.

I do not have any remotes. I can put a load on the lift and see what happens though.

 

[jmcdaniel505]

I do not have any remotes. I can put a load on the lift and see what happens though.

It seems to have pressure. I was able to hook up the lift arms to my brush hog and pick it up just a bit.

 

[m16ty]

Well it seems like you've got your hydraulics and lift arms working, but you're going to have to have a remote valve to utilize a hydraulic top link. I don't know how the hydraulics are setup on a 871 and if there is a port where you can add a factory remote valve or if you have a power beyond outlet where you can tap in a add a aftermarket spool valve?