I have a TO-30 and when i attach my Dynabalance sicklebar mower to it and raise it up, it will raise but shutters until it reaches the top. It does raise better after the oil warms up and then when I try to lower it it will lower about 2inches then suddenly drop to the ground with a thud! If I raise it all the way up and shut the pto off it will slowley lower itself to the ground. Once this past winter while using my scraper blade to plow snow it wouldn"t raise the blade until I lowered the handle to the bottom position and then raised the handle up again and it would shutter back to the top position. Sometimes I"ve got off the tractor and lifted a little on the lift arms and it would "kick in" and raise the blade. How many things need to be fixed to rectify my problems? Anyone?
Thanks for any ides and help.
 
well this isn't straightforward, there is more than one thing wrong here from your description. Shuddering when it is lifting is usually a leaking "O" ring or gasket on a Side Chamber or sticking valves or broken valve springs in the chambers. The implement crashing down like that would seem to be the Control Valve sticking. The implement slowly leaking down when you turn off the PTO, is a leak somewhere. You can leave the PTO in drive all the time unless you have something on the PTO itself, this will allow the hydraulics to keep the implement raised, it is supposed to operate like that.It is made to automatically keep the implement lifted if it drop just a little. What you need to do is look for the leaks first, only when you can see where they are should you attempt to repair them. DO NOT tear the system down unless you know where the leaks are and what the fault is. It is possible that the system has some water in there and that is what is causing the problem. Do you know if the oil in the hydraulics is the correct grade, if it is too heavy, it could also do all this, gear oil would make everything sluggish and slow.
But if you need assistance with this, I can send you some information about looking for leaks and whatever it needs once you find them. If you want this info, just email me and I will send it. [email protected]
 
Does it shutter steadily and slow when the engine runs slow, and steadily and a little faster when the engine runs faster ?
Or, is the shutter uneven all the time ?

In the first case it often indicates a pump piston that is not pumping, so the pump is pumping 1,2,3 and skips number 4, then 1,2,3 and skips number 4.

If the shuttering is uneven, like it can wait a little, then jump, and jump again,... and wait, and the list goes on, it can be a lot of dirt in the area where the pump is sucking oil. It is like the pump does not get oil, then it gets a little and pump, and the implement jumps a little, then waiting until the pumps gets a little oil next time, and so it continues.

Is it long time since you cleaned the back end of your tractor ?

The dropping down after stopping the tractor indicated a leaking cylinder (most often piston rings), or gaskets, or a leak somewhere else as John said.
And, as he says, this sounds like more than 1 problem.

The jumping sounds like one problem. The dropping down seems like a different problem.

What oil are you using ?


Bill
 
It doesn't always shudder when I lift it up. It's a little weird. I'm using 90 weight gear oil right now and the oil looks good but it has been awhile since I've changed it. So I will take your suggestion of cleaning it. I'm going to pull the side cover and look to see if there are any leaks first, before I continue on with everyones suggestions. I also talked with a farm/heavy equipment mechanic and he thought the slow drop in the lift arms wether there are implements on or not was due to oil leaking by the piston rings. I may just go ahead and replace the rings. Thank you for your help.
 
Remember, drain the old oil in some clean "see through" cans if you can find that, and then let the oil settle there for some months, unless it is clean as it is.
When you are letting the oil settle like this, all dirt will fall to the bottom, and all water too. So, on top of all the garbage you will have clean and good oil you can use later. Except that water and dirt that settled on the bottom.

Saves you some money.

The rings on the cylinder is often a good bet, and when replacing them, remember to hone the cylinder. I often use a long rod that fits in my electric drill, roll on some paper cardboard I fasten with tape, and in the end I roll on abrasive cloth when it is large enough to make a good fit in the cylinder. Plenty of kerosene on, and let i rotate while I move it a little in and out. Unless you have a hone that fits.

Remember, the hydraulic cylinder is short and nothing goes fast there, so it is more important to get a nice finish and all the scratches smoothed out than to have a perfect roundness and a lined bore.


Bill.
 
Remove the left side round cover and try to lift some implement about 400lbs and see where the leak is, don't start tearing it down until you know where the leak is from or you could be there for days and it could cost you a bomb trying this and trying that.If you are using thick gear oil that wont help either, use Multi-grade 10W/30 low detergent oil..Find the leak first though. If you need more help with it, email me and I will send you the [email protected]
 
Disregard the last posting I made to you John. I guess I can't read. I will put a set of plows on that my cousin has at the farm and then take a look see. Thank's for your reply. Buster
 
When you gentlemen say take off the left side cover, is it the one with the dipstick or the pto lever. I'm assuming dipstick,(a little like me.)?
 
I put a set of plows on and when I raised them up, oil squirted upwards somewhere from the pump.
Maybe an o-ring like you suggested John?
Also would that cause a heavy piece of equipment, like my sicklebar mower to suddenly drop to the ground when I try to lower it? Or is it more likely the control valve?
 
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