I just named my tractor Quicksand: ring and pinion?

[atlarge54]

Bought a Case const. king loader at auction in June and knew it needed "some work" to get going. Got the motor rebuilt and started to work on the brakes which led to finding too much end play in shafts which led to finding a damaged ring and pinion. I've never had any experience in that area but am pretty well versed in bearings and shafts etc. from reparing equipment at work. I know this isn't an easy job but I might give it a whirl. The ring gear is riveted to the assembly which has the spider gears. When I priced a ring and pinion I didn't ask what it included. What is typically included when purchasing a ring and pinion? This tractor is a gas 580ck. I don't have the ring gear removed yet but have the spur gear removed on one side. There's a solid bar through the ring gear assembly which supports the spur gears. Does anyone know how this shaft is held in the ring gear assembly? I've got a service manual which is in CD form and it's pretty good but not for dummies like me. I'm going to review it a few more times and proceed carefully. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[atlarge54]

The shaft is a press fit to shoulder according to my manual. Sorry about the stupid question but I was in a hurry to get some input since I might go work on it this evening. I had myself about talked out of doing this job but yesterday a farm boy who's a pretty good mechanic stopped by goaded me into diving in deeper.

 

[Janicholson]

The ring gear should be bolted on with studs and nuts on the inside of the "ring" (I have never seen riveted on ring gears)
Usually they come gears only.
A set of appropriate shims and a good dial indicator and Prussian Blue for patterning the contact patch are needed. JimN

 

[atlarge54]

Well I finally got all the guts out of the rear end. The ring gear has about four teeth that are damaged. I stopped by to show it to the farmers on the way home. They said if I didn't plan on plowing with it they'd put it back in. I'm a little sceptical about using it, but there's no way I want to split the tractor to replace the countershaft-pinion. The book calls for two thrust washers between spur gears and the ring gear carrier. Mine only had a single bakelite washer on each side and they didn't come close to filling the gap. The Case parts diagram calls the small gears inside the ring gear pinion gears and the one that drives the ring gear a countershaft gear. I've always called the gear that drives the ring gear the pinion and the small gears spider gears. There is a number on the casting which has the ring gear #F1038 does anyone know if that will help if I decide to order parts?

 

[trucker40]

I havent worked on a Case ring and pinion.Now if you arent going to replace the pinion,just my opinion,if the ring is useable,put it back in with enough shims to take the slack out.Check your pattern with Prussian Blue,adjust until you get it in the middle of the tooth.Most of the time damage is caused by it being too far to the outside edge of the tooth.If its in the center of the tooth it will wear out before it breaks.Its hard to say what somebody did in the past unless you were standing there when they did it and knew what happened.It kind of sounds like it wasnt set up right at some time or another.
If you replace the ring I think it would be a mistake.The right way would be to replace the ring and pinion.Another possible thing to do might be see if you can find a good used ring.
If you are going to use it hard then I would replace the ring and pinion.If you are going to play around with it,I would put it back together adjusted as good as you can get it.
The worst thing about being a mechanic is sometimes trying to decide where to start and stop fixing something.If you want to fix something,fix it right is the best way.Money and time and even the weather sometimes affect how something gets fixed or not,but half@ssed fixing something usually means doing it again and again until you finally do fix it right.Just replacing the ring gear seems like half way fixing it,just my opinion.

 

[guido]

Hello atlarge54,
Most highway truck differentials have the ring riveted to the carrier housing.
The procedure to remove the ring gear is the first drill out the rivet and then push it out.
The replacement ring gear is supplyed with bolts.
Just replacing the ring gear and pinion is not enough. The pinion bearings need to have a certain amount of preeload first,a specific amount of drag, and then the tooth contactor pattern has to be adjusted.
Getting the manual with all the specs is what you need, NOT MUCH ROOM FOR ERROR!
Guido.

 

[atlarge54]

(quoted from post at 00:06:28 08/30/09) Hello atlarge54,
Most highway truck differentials have the ring riveted to the carrier housing.
The procedure to remove the ring gear is the first drill out the rivet and then push it out.
The replacement ring gear is supplyed with bolts.
Just replacing the ring gear and pinion is not enough. The pinion bearings need to have a certain amount of preeload first,a specific amount of drag, and then the tooth contactor pattern has to be adjusted.
Getting the manual with all the specs is what you need, NOT MUCH ROOM FOR ERROR!
Guido.

Yesterday I did a trial assembly using temporary spacers to match what is available for purchase. Everything seemed to come in pretty close and should produce a reasonably good repair for my purposes. I am a bit curious about the thrust washers between the spur gears and the center carrier being phenolic instead of the sintered iron like the book calls for. I wonder if when I purchase new ones if they'll be the same material?
I'm tempted to pull the shifter cover off and take a peek, but I just get sucked in deeper and deeper.