I like the improved starter drive for an old Farmall

[rankrank1]

Had to put a starter drive (aka bendix) in my old 1946 Farmall M. I chose to go with the improved design which I bought from this site. I really like it. The starter engages so much smoother and without the clang and harshness that I have lived with from the original design for the last several years.

I may have to add one for the ole Farmall h as well although it has not been as harsh as the m used to be.

Only time will tell how the durability and longevity goes.

 

[fastfarmall]

OK, the starter repair guy -[semi retired] in town gave me a reduction starter drive,for high compression pistons and 6 volt battery, what i wouldn't of gave for one of them,back in the 60's he said there isn't any demand for it so thanks Neil !!!'

 

[Whiskey Bent]

I installed the improved drive on my Cockshutt and I agree it works great. Mine has been in for 3-4 years now.

 

[riverbend]

I have had one on my H for close to 20 years. It works great.

 

[Charlie M]

I've bought a couple of them and couldn't get them to work. No instructions came with them so I'm probably doing something wrong but couldn't see what it was. I'm thinking the drive didn't reach the flywheel.

 

[Turkeyfoot]

I've had one from this site on a Farmall A for around 5 or 6 years and it's been fine.

 

[gab]

I bought one for my Super C from an IH dealer over twenty years ago, works nice.

 

[560Dennis]

How did you thighen the set screw to the armature shaft ?

 

[rankrank1]

(quoted from post at 08:37:30 08/23/22) How did you thigten the set screw to the armature shaft ?

Sadly there were no instructions but I searched the archives of this site and pieced the critical info together from reading multiple threads.

First. I used the very edge corner of my bench vise to lightly squeeze the steel washer back a little bit so that I could back out the set screw enough to slide it on the starter shaft. Do not remove the set screw entirely only back it out enough to slide on starter shaft. Once that set screw is backed out it will hold that washer back accordingly.

To tighten the set screw it is not possible to use the vise anymore on re-assembly but there is a step on that washer and you can use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the washer off the set screw as you tighten the set screw with a second screwdriver. You only have to pry just enough so that the threads do not get all messed up on set screw as you tighten it so does not take much prying force at all.

It is a little tricky to find the relief hole in starter shaft but a couple trials and errors and you can feel when the set screw finds the hole and goes down in there. Do not force the set screw till you confident you found the relief hole.

Lastly only 2 total thrust washers should be used and they are placed with 1 at each of the end of the main shaft. I guess technically you could use more more than 2 thrust washers if they are thin or something or your casing is well worn. I would add any extra thrust washers on the back end of the starter motor instead of at the drive end. My thrust washers were close to same thickness but one was a tad more. I put the thickest of them at the opposite end away from the drive. The goal is simply to have very little slack or slop, but there needs to be a little slop as too tight is bad and will bind. None of the original parts from the original starter drive such as those other washers or various springs should be put back in from the original design.

This post was edited by rankrank1 on 08/24/2022 at 05:55 pm.

 

[rankrank1]

One addition from my previous post: I used 4 pieces of heavier sized sewing thread tied around each starter brush and fished out the access hole so I could use the thread to pull back each brush over the armature easily. Once everything was in proper place I cut the thread and pulled the thread out and discarded it. Small String would also work just as well.