I need your help pricing this 966

GGVC

New User
I posted a few weeks back asking what kind of price range this thing would be in , and everybody wanted pictures and to know more about it. I am not well versed in anything international, and that's why I'm coming here to you guys that are.
I've got what I found out to be a 1975 international 966 with a Coleman manual front wheel assist 4 wheel drive axle. I've seen in one of the Tractor Sales places when you try to post them four wheel drive they ask four wheel drive or manual front wheel assist , and I don't know what the difference is . That would be one thing that would be helpful. This tractor was originally purchased by international dealer in Glenwood Arkansas , and that is who sold it to my dad. It was sold with a fresh rebuild on the motor, and my dad died in 2006 , so he used it for 6 years, 3 weeks every 10 months. That's because he only used it to pull the litter wagon to unload his laying houses. He had stuck a spreader truck and couldn't get it out for a few months the year before and got this monster to pull the wagon through anything. After my father died some family used it and put a stick or something through the radiator and ruined the radiator. Thankfully they killed it and never overheat the thing. I had to get it out of the pasture where they killed it. It has been sitting for years now in the weather and looks like it. The tires will need replaced . The front ones don't hold air long, and the back ones are full of tread but dry rotted. I have all the metal that's not in the pictures , as well as the top. The top had square tubing welded inside it so you can slide it right back down in there. Hell they may come from the factory that way, I don't know. I cranked the thing to make sure it would run, and that's when I remember that I haven't checked the fuel tank for trash moisture or anything , and the damn thing tried to run away and I bled the injectors to kill it immediately. I've since been told I should have thrown something over the air intake to kill it that way, but i've not had one run away previously. I'm just glad I had a wrench in my hand, because I was figuring I was going to have to bleed the injectors anyway. You guys tell me what you think and tell me what other information is needed . I don't have the hours, and I'm not sure the hour meter worked, as I have not run this tractor myself. I'll get the hours off of it tomorrow.
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It is what I'd call an MFWD (Modified Front Wheel Drive) tractor.

The sheet medal looks pretty straight

If it runs without any known problems, I'd ask $25K and work from there, being prepared to take less.

They are out there, but a 966 with the MFWD is somewhat rare. I'm sure there are a lot more 10-1466's set up that way.
 
It is what I'd call an MFWD (Modified Front Wheel Drive) tractor.

The sheet medal looks pretty straight

If it runs without any known problems, I'd ask $25K and work from there, being prepared to take less.

They are out there, but a 966 with the MFWD is somewhat rare. I'm sure there are a lot more 10-1466's set up that way.
The radiator is missing. I've got all the sheet metal for it and the top. It is set so long that the injection pump needs going through I believe, because I had to catch it before it ran away with me when I cranked it up. I know that's bound to affect the price of plenty.
 
Looks like a $4-5000 tractor with a $????(8K??) front end under it. In any case the front end and what else is needed to install it is worth more than the rest of the tractor. Unfortunately all the "used to run well, "rebuilt" "not used much" talk is pretty meaningless (no offense) in the market for tractors in that condition. If I were you I would join one of the Farmall specific forums or groups and find out what the front ends are bringing because my guess is someone will buy it for those parts and part out the rest but who knows??
 
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The radiator is missing. I've got all the sheet metal for it and the top. It is set so long that the injection pump needs going through I believe, because I had to catch it before it ran away with me when I cranked it up. I know that's bound to affect the price of plenty.
The pump might be stuck on high idle but I don’t think it ran away. On a runaway u have no time to be fooling around with lines. The engine rpm just keep increasing till the Motor flys apart. When pumps are worked on and installed mechanics have a piece of plywood handy to cut off the intake air. Someone has painted this unit with some cheap paint and that is a devalue right there. It does not even have a good appearance Butch is correct. I would not even go that high.
 
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I posted a few weeks back asking what kind of price range this thing would be in , and everybody wanted pictures and to know more about it. I am not well versed in anything international, and that's why I'm coming here to you guys that are.
I've got what I found out to be a 1975 international 966 with a Coleman manual front wheel assist 4 wheel drive axle. I've seen in one of the Tractor Sales places when you try to post them four wheel drive they ask four wheel drive or manual front wheel assist , and I don't know what the difference is . That would be one thing that would be helpful. This tractor was originally purchased by international dealer in Glenwood Arkansas , and that is who sold it to my dad. It was sold with a fresh rebuild on the motor, and my dad died in 2006 , so he used it for 6 years, 3 weeks every 10 months. That's because he only used it to pull the litter wagon to unload his laying houses. He had stuck a spreader truck and couldn't get it out for a few months the year before and got this monster to pull the wagon through anything. After my father died some family used it and put a stick or something through the radiator and ruined the radiator. Thankfully they killed it and never overheat the thing. I had to get it out of the pasture where they killed it. It has been sitting for years now in the weather and looks like it. The tires will need replaced . The front ones don't hold air long, and the back ones are full of tread but dry rotted. I have all the metal that's not in the pictures , as well as the top. The top had square tubing welded inside it so you can slide it right back down in there. Hell they may come from the factory that way, I don't know. I cranked the thing to make sure it would run, and that's when I remember that I haven't checked the fuel tank for trash moisture or anything , and the damn thing tried to run away and I bled the injectors to kill it immediately. I've since been told I should have thrown something over the air intake to kill it that way, but i've not had one run away previously. I'm just glad I had a wrench in my hand, because I was figuring I was going to have to bleed the injectors anyway. You guys tell me what you think and tell me what other information is needed . I don't have the hours, and I'm not sure the hour meter worked, as I have not run this tractor myself. I'll get the hours off of it tomorrow. View attachment 138892
The tractor is in really rough condition, as it has not had much care in the last 20 or more years, but it does have the one valuable option: the front drive axle and its driveline. The rest of the tractor looks like just a parts machine. I doubt you would recover much if any of the cost to improve it or to restore it. Selling it as-is might be your best option. The rest of the tractor adds little value to the front end, but keeping the tractor intact helps assure potential buyers that the driveline parts are still there.

A $10,000 asking price and widely advertising it across the neighboring states should get some realistic offers and get it sold within a few months.

What is your timeline to sell it? Are you an executor of an estate with a deadline to close the estate, or do you hope to restore it yourself sometime in the next decade or two and are trying to set a budget?
 
Right now in most areas of the country you'd have a hard time getting $5000 for it at an auction. It looks like a piece of junk.

If you spend a little time and put a little money into it, I'm talking a few hundred dollars, it could be worth what some of these others have quoted. $25,000? Not in this reality, but easily $10,000, maybe $15,000.

First, get a radiator. Temu has a radiator for $275(!!!!) right now. Is it any good? WHO CARES? Let the next guy worry about it. What it gives you is a tractor that runs and drives and doesn't overheat in two minutes. That doubles its value.

Second, put all the tin on. Missing tin, or tin sitting in a pile beside the tractor, is a huge turn-off. If the bolts are missing, get bolts and flat washers at the local hardware store. You don't need "correct" bolts, just the right sized bolts.

Third, get a muffler or a stack on it. Even a cheap muffler or stack is better than no muffler or stack. Same goes for the seat. Get a cheap IH seat and put it on.

Looks make a major difference in price, and just a few small touches can turn a tractor from a hunk of junk into something with potential.

Fourth, get it running right. Find a mobile mechanic that works on tractors and have him unstick whatever's stuck on the pump. I had a 1066 last spring with the same problem. The mobile mechanic took the pump off and was going to take it to his colleague who does injection pumps but he figured it out and got it unstuck. Said he wouldn't have had to take the pump off the tractor. The right guy will know what to do, and it will be worth a couple hours' of his time. Otherwise the tractor will have to be sold has having a "bad injector pump" which devalues it severely, not only for the pump repair, but also for not being able to hear the tractor run, or drive it.
 
The hydraulic clutch assist is quite rare on a 966. Their in high demand for the 10's and 14's and very hard to find. Here in Michigan that tractor wouldn't bring $3500 especially without a TA
 
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