Ignition points and condenser question?

[r.w.b.]

Went to o'riely to get points n condenser for my
411b,autolite distributer. Parts guy went crazy
telling me no such thing as a 411b or autolite
distributer.i asked for same for vac,no such
thing there also. I asked what do you have for
either? None.went to farm store dang it they were
out.
Now my question is condenser the same as vac to
411b? Vac is 6 volt 411b 12 volt,i see no
resistor on the 411b?

 

[BarryfromIA]

I have two boxes here and one is AL111 that is a condenser and one is AL4556P and that is the points I think unless I mixed them up when I put the old ones in the boxes when I got done. These are Blue Streak by Standard.

 

[oldproudvet]

First off, you need an older parts man........... Hard to find except in very rural areas. A condenser's capacitance has to matched to the coils primary windings. When the points open and the mag fld collapses past the secondary winding, inducing your high voltage to fire the spark plug, it also collapses past the primary windings inducing a couple of hundred volts in the primary. this flows into the condenser and is dissipated. If the condenser is mismatched or "open" current continues to flow across the points as they open, doing 2 things: Arcing and burning the points and slowing the collapse of the mag fld, thus weakening the spark. One of the requirements of induction electrical production is a rapid collapse of the mag fld. Faster the collapse, higher the induced voltage. A solid state ignition gives almost instantaneous collapse and thus the much hotter or higher spark voltage. Points that are pitted on either the grnd side or the + side indicate a faulty or mismatched condenser. No one manufactures the various condensers necessary for all the old ignition systems out there. Most of what you find are Chinese "fit alls" of dubious quality. Echlin, thru NAPA, was the last really solid ignition line around. Napa's bought them and combined them with their bottom line American Standard stuff so beware. NOS stuff thru someone dealing with old inventory, or quality stuff, like J Sali or D Livingston is where I'd start. Your 12v coil, must have a resistor and it's probably built in. It should be cast on the base, "internal resistor", or you can measure the + and - terminals and see resistance, perhaps 7-800 ohms. Without a resistor, your points will burn quite quickly. My 2 bits. Larry

 

[Joe (Wa)]

John Saeli sells a complete tune up kit for your distributor plus plugs at a reasonable price.

Joe

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Further VA series and 400B use the same distributor IAD6003 2F. All IAD6003 distributors are the same with exception of the advance springs designated in this case by the 2F.

Joe

 

[rvirgil_KS]

?Your 12v coil, must have a resistor and it's probably built in. It should be cast on the base, "internal resistor", or you can measure the + and - terminals and see resistance, perhaps 7-800 ohms. Without a resistor, your points will burn quite quickly.?

Most tractor coils will have approximately 1 ? ohms or 3 ohms across the primary + and ? terminals, and somewhere in the 6,000 to 10,000 range from either + or ? to the center output secondary terminal. The 1 ? coils are used with 6 volt systems, the 3 ohm are used directly (no added resistance) in a 12 volt system.

1 ? ohm coil can be marked either ?6 volt? or ?12 volt, external resistor required?. They can be used in a 6 volt system, or as indicated, with an added 1 ? ohm resistor in 12 volt systems.

The original purpose of the ?12 volt, external resistor required? was in a 12 volt system where the resistor would be bypassed when the starter was engaged to give a hotter starting spark. Some of these set ups used a resistance wire rather than a resistor and may be difficult to determine.

?Internal Resistor Coil? implies that there is a separate resistor inside the coil can in series with the primary winding. This is not the case. Modern tractor coils do not have a separate resistor inside the can. 1 ? and 3 ohm coils are wound with different types of wire to get the desired resistance.

 

[old]

Send me an E-mail and I'll get you the parts number from O'Reilly's. Sadly many parts people are not well trained so they can only find things if it is in the computer and tractors are in books not computers. My local O'Reilly's has had me dealing with them for almost 40 years so many know I ask for odd parts and most are tractor parts and they find them for me

 

[kenbob]

Condensers have been a problem for a while. Best practice would be to use you old one, and not replace
unless it doesn't run right.

 

[oldproudvet]

And all you asked was a simple question..................

 

[BarryfromIA]

Maybe I should have said the parts where for the Auto Lite on my 210b-h

 

[r.w.b.]

Thank you old,friend works at another place,he got me a set.im writing the numbers in my service manual

 

[r.w.b.]

Yep

 

[Stephen Newell]

If the information isn't in the computer they are lost.

 

[r.w.b.]

Even that dont work with some parts handlers

 

[kevinthefixer]

I am in the process of converting my 611b to a capacitive discharge system, uses the original points without a condenser. I bought a Vellemann kit, about $30 I think it was, built it and then had some health problems. I'm just now getting to where I can get up on the tractor, working on it is out of the question. But the advantage is that I can switch it back anytime. Oh yes, and with an annual service the points should outlast me.