I just found a 1086 at a local auction for $2500. We got it home and it just cranks and cranks unless I put ether to it. It has some sort of port that I can just inject it in the line to a cylinder instead of going through the breather. My question, it's more than likely dependent on ether to start by the ways it's acting and I haven't compression checked it. But worse case scenario, how much would it cost to do an in frame overhaul?
 
I don't believe they are any pricier than other IHs. I
would make sure the valves are adjusted on it. Is it
in time? How does it run once you start it? Every
one I have had has ether assist on it. Does it have a
button clear on the left of the key? If it does then
just put a can on it. If it hasn't been used the bottom
of the holder is in the top slot to keep dirt out so it
doesn't look like an ether can slot.

Loot on here at 1086 kits. That will give you an idea.
Depending on the shop I would say the kit will be a
third of your total rebuild cost by someone else. If
you do it then it is just bloody knuckles. She
definitely needs something, as they weren't huge
ether sniffers. I have a new can on my 86 but I'm
not sure why. I've never used it and only plugged it
in a couple of times.
 
Once I get it started it runs just fine. This thing is really pretty trashed out. The cab, seat, gauges, ect are destroyed and there's not any glass or doors. There might have once been a button for ether assist but it's long gone now. There is a little valve stem cap covering the ether port to keep the dust out. It didn't come with any batteries either. So getting a couple of those to put on there.

But back to the actual running. Once it fires up it runs pretty good, slight miss on one cylinder. Loads of blue grey smoke for about the first 10 minutes after start up. Will need to replace the water pump because there's no flow through the radiator. It looks like someone just abandoned this old beast in the woods somewhere and left it for the last 20 years. Lol we knew when we bid on it that it would take some serious work and TLC to get it up and running good again. Once it warms up the smoke pretty much stops. But if you kill it, even after it being warmed up it will not start again with out ether. That's why I figured it was a compression issue or ether dependent.
 
You are looking at a complete restoration on a tractor that has nothing special about it. Next time you run it put it in a higher gear, maybe high 3rd push the torque ahead and load it down real good quickly but for a short period using the brakes. If the torque slips I would seriously consider selling it to a salvage yard. You could very easily get $10,000 in an engine and TA. The crankshaft might be bad, the camshaft might be worn down beyond specs. Add to that a rusted throttle cable and TA cable and worn out shift linkeage. The cab Windows and gauges might be vandalism but it might be operator abuse too. You can buy a good running 1086 for less than you could possibly have in fixing this one.
 
It's definitely not what I was hoping to hear, but I do appreciate the information. I'll take it for a little stroll tomorrow and put it under a good bind to see if the TA is slipping or not. If it is, chalk it up to a learning experience and I'll look into finding another 100+hp tractor. :-)
 
If you want to sell that 10 I would be interested. I have a 10 with good engine needs rear work. In about the same cosmetic looks. I don't
care about the cab part. If the levers work I would be ahead of the game. We could sell our 10 to you also. It runs good and starts fine. The
bearing came apart in the bottom front of the drives for the hydraulics The cab is in the same condition as yours. You can call me 989 413
5684.
 
First of all,I don't like injecting ether straight into the manifold:I like spraying thru the air filter because I believe it helps to vaporize the ether better.BUT,as Owen also says,you have a fuel pump problem/injector problem rather than a base engine problem.Mark
 
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