IH 2424 starter drive

[nanate25]

Hello experts. Is there any tricks to replacing the starter drive on an IH 2424? I’ve never done and I know it has a strong spring involved. I don’t want things to go flying when I take it apart or find out I need some kind compression tool or something. Thanks in advance!

 

[Tim in New York]

Are you sure its the starter drive? My 2424 starter ground several times before it would catch -for many years. I finally had it fixed and it was the ring gear that was stripped. Mechanic was able to flip it over and use the other side and its been fine ever since.

 

[wore out]

Hello experts. Is there any tricks to replacing the starter drive on an IH 2424? I’ve never done and I know it has a strong spring involved. I don’t want things to go flying when I take it apart or find out I need some kind compression tool or something. Thanks in advance!

Gas or diesel? Do you have the new drive at hand to share a photo or at least a part number of?

(I own a 424 diesel, the ag version of your industrial.)

 

[nanate25]

It’s the gas version. I’ll get photos tomorrow. I assume it’s the drive. It’ll grind a few times and then finally grab and crank the tractor. I don’t know what the ring gear is.

 

[used red MN]

No strong spring involved. When you unbolt the solenoid front the front nose piece there is a spring in there that has some push to it but I definitely would not call it strong. Here is the part catalog break down diagram. CNHI IH424 parts catalog Probably the thing that will give a novice the most trouble is the lock collar 22 and snap ring 23. Make an alignment mark with a Sharpie for the case and end plate. During disassembly you remove the long internal bolts that you see on the end plate. Pull the end plate off noting any washers on the armature shaft. Disconnect your bottom solenoid terminal screw that goes through the motor feed lug. Pull the case and brushes away from the nose piece and armature, the brushes and holders will snap down off the commutator as it is pulled off but that is fine. Take out the two screws that hold the solenoid to the nose piece, this is where the spring will push against the screws as they are loosened. Not sure about the tractor applications but on automotive starters the drive can be positioned just right and it will release from the fork 16, if this works it saves you from disassembling it. I take the end cap and put it back on the armature and place it in a vise armature sticking up in the air with just a snug clamping tension on the end plate bearing nub, you don’t want to smash it. Then remove 24 the thrust washer noting it sets a certain direction. The I take a 6” slip joint pliers (farmer pliers) with the joint set to the large position. I set it on the collar 22 and give it a sharp blow down with a small hammer. This should pop it off of the snap ring. Use the pliers to go over the end of the armature shaft and squeeze it to slip the snap ring out of the groove and off the end of the shaft. Slide the lock collar off and the drive will pull off. Take a couple pea sized globs of grease and lube up the spiral spline grooves. Put the new drive on, followed by the lock collar. Now the snap ring, you may need your pliers and hammer to slide the ring down the shaft and into its groove. Now you need an adjustable pliers as well, again with one jaw on the end of the shaft you will hold tension on the lock collar forcing it against the snap ring. At the same time take your farmer pliers and squeeze the snap ring into the lock collar. Work your way around until the snap ring is seated all the way around in the lock collar. Install the thrust washer with the raised inner face against the snap ring. Lube the nose bushing with about a half pea blob of grease. Put the armature back in the nose piece making sure the fork 16 is in the engagement groove of the drive. Reinstall the the solenoid. Hopefully you have noted that the brushed are still good or not. And 1/8 inch left to brush holder hitting the commutator needs replaced. Now place the nose piece and armature in the vise nose down lightly clamping it. Slide the case down over the armature and let the weight of it set against the brushes on the end of the commutator. Take a screwdriver and pry the brushes open to set up on the commutator. Be careful on the last one and lift the case slightly or it will slam down as the last brush is put in position. Run around the brush screws making sure they are all tight. Half pea of grease in the end cap bushing put washers in place and close it up. One trick you can do is loosen the nut on the solenoid lug the battery cable connects to. It is held in place like a carriage bolt. As it is loosened hold out on it. When the nut is at the end of the threads but still engaged push the terminal in and turn it a half turn. Pull it in position and retighten the nut. There are contacts on the end of the terminal lug that burn away as the starter is used. Turning it gives it a brand new contact surface inside. You could pull the end cap off of the solenoid if you want and clean the contacts. The nut will have to be removed from the large lug closest to the case and the nut on the S terminal, and the two 5/16” screws that secure the end cap. The large battery lug and the “I” terminal can stay in place. Reassemble and done.
The ring gear is the gear on the flywheel the starter drive engages into. That link above will let you view all the parts diagrams for your tractor. The flywheel ring gear is shown in the Engine Function Group, section 017.
When you have the starter out look at the teeth on the ring gear where it stopped take a picture of them and post it so we can judge the condition of them.

 

[nanate25]

That looks like a lot. I didn’t get a photo because I was more focused on getting the gas tank hooked back up and cranking it. When I had the starter off I dropped a small amount of oil on the shaft and the baring looking thing and spun it a bit. When I cranked it up today it didn’t miss or grind. Maybe I got lucky. I’ll see what it does next weekend if I get to use it some more. Man I really like the power of that thing vs the old Ford 2N, and the power steering!