IH 300U...the volt meter works!

Dave H (MI)

Well-known Member
Actually...everything seems to work fine. I very much appreciate all the help with the wiring! That was a real mess! I wired everything but the lights just as suggested. Only difference was they did not have a 35 amp fuse so I put a 40 in there for now. My phone will not let me pull up YT as it says they have a security issue and my passwords are at risk but I had the thread on paper so I am sure I did it all correctly. The tractor does not start. Does not even sound like it wants to start. With the choke wide open and a whiff of starter fluid there is no reaction. I only had time to check for spark with a test light before I had to leave for the night. I had spark on all four cylinders. Battery is new and fully charged. Plugs are new. I guess the carb/fuel supply is my next thing to check. This is the point (for me) where it stops being fun. I have never been very good at diagnosing starting problems. Is one of those things shown a drain for the carb so I can tell if it is getting fuel?


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Yes. the front bottom of the carb bowl has a large screw under it there is a square headed 1/8th inch pipe plug, it is the drain. shut off the fuel at the tank/sediment bowl. Remove that plug. open the tank valve. fuel should come out a pint a minute, for a minute or 2. Did you pull the coil wire and hold it 1/4 inch away from the block to SEE spark? Jim
 
The square headed plug that angles up from the bottom right below the main needle jet that screws in horizontally from the front. The block drain for the coolant is directly behind it in the picture. Since it has been setting or torn apart the distributor has not been removed from the engine, is this correct? I hate to forecast anything but why did you have the tractor split? Glad to hear that possibly the electrical is behind us.
 
well if u have apsrk and it is timed then remove the plugs and squirt some gas in each cylinder about 6 squirts with an oil squirt can. even mixed gas is good.it will fire right up then and stop in about 3 seconds. then u know its a definite gas problem. looks like that main jet screw is backed right out , not that it matters. 5 turns out and your needle is out of the jet. i would be removing that carb and taking it all apart and soaking it in carb cleaner. looks like it has not been touched in a long time and todays gas is garbage.
 
A pint a minute is 7.5 gallon an hour, according to the NE test that tractor will use 3.4 gallons an hour under max load. It may use a bit more if it was overhauled at some point with over bore sleeves. I just did not want you giving up in defeat if it did not flow that. Any stream that continues to run and not slow to a dribble or stop will start the tractor and run it. But it may not sustain it under a heavy load. Just FYI the fitting that screws in the carb where the fuel line attaches to the carb has a fine screen that can plug. The main screen should be located in the top of the sediment bowl below the gas tank. If you get zero gas out first try a couple gentle hammer tap near where the fuel line fitting is attached. It is rare but occasionally the float needle valve will stick shut when they set.
 
and another thing u can do is remove the air intake hose and use a spray bottle and mist in the gas and it will start while cranking it over takes 2 people.and run long as you are misting in the gas. there u go try one of these or both and report back. cause if it dont start u have other problems.
 
the 300U has a baffled fuel tank that is prone to rusting ( just my opinion and experience w/300U's) Check it out I had to find a different tank for mine. With the baffle they are a lot tougher to clean than a tank without. you'll get it how does it steer? Hope yours has power steering. gobble
 
I will try all of it when I get back tomorrow. Wednesdays take me in a different direction. The gas tank looked very clean when I filled it. It never had an issue with sediment so I declined to put a filter in line. Still an option if needed.
 
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