IH 444 - What is this electrical component?

[Taiko]

Hi all,

Most of my tractors electrical system has been disconnected or removed by previous owners. Currently, the only thing working is the starter. The starter motor engages and cranks the engine without issue.

The tractor no longer has a voltage regulator, so my battery is not charging. I will be ordering replacement wiring looms and parts, however I can't identify what is currently connected. I assume the previous owners have bodged the wiring somewhat so I don't know what was original.

So what is this component? There are no markings on the body, no manufacturers stamp or model number. So I have no clue what it is. It doesn't appear to be connected in any meaningful way, as one wire goes to a key start, all other wires are disconnected.

Any help appreciated

Cheers

 

[Hayfarmer]

Hi all,

Most of my tractors electrical system has been disconnected or removed by previous owners. Currently, the only thing working is the starter. The starter motor engages and cranks the engine without issue.

The tractor no longer has a voltage regulator, so my battery is not charging. I will be ordering replacement wiring looms and parts, however I can't identify what is currently connected. I assume the previous owners have bodged the wiring somewhat so I don't know what was original.

So what is this component? There are no markings on the body, no manufacturers stamp or model number. So I have no clue what it is. It doesn't appear to be connected in any meaningful way, as one wire goes to a key start, all other wires are disconnected.

Any help appreciated

Cheers

Starter solenoid. When you turn on key it should click. Generally it connects hot wire from battery to starter cable to make starter work. I don't see the wire from battery on there. In this case it may just activate starter solenoid.

 

[Taiko]

Starter solenoid. When you turn on key it should click. Generally it connects hot wire from battery to starter cable to make starter work. I don't see the wire from battery on there. In this case it may just activate starter solenoid.

Hi, just to double check, shouldn't the starter solenoid be connected to the starter motor like in the photo?

Cheers

 

[Taiko]

I should have also said, this particular component does not appear to be in any manual I have.

 

[Jim.ME]

If used in the starting circuit it would be a relay. In some systems the delay gets power from the key when it is turned to start. That energizes the coil in including a contact between the two larger posts. One large post would have battery power and the other would be wired to engage the starter solenoid, this reduces the power draw through the start switch.

That type of relay is also used to power glow plugs in some systems.

 

[M-MAN]

It's an add on starter relay. Activation wire from the switch. Needs a full battery voltage wire on one side and on the other side it goes to the starter solenoid to energize it. Think of it as a full voltage bypass to help starting. I plan on adding one to my 424 but haven't got around to it yet.

Deere added the same type set up on New Generation tractors.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Hi, just to double check, shouldn't the starter solenoid be connected to the starter motor like in the photo?

Cheers

Not necessarily. On many older Ford vehicles, the solenoid was up on the right fender, although I think there was a second solenoid on the starter itself that actuated the starter drive.

That appears to be a generic aftermarket solenoid.

 

[Janicholson]

Welcome to YT forums and PartsASAP.
That is called a relay (or solenoid). For engineering terms solenoids usually mechanically move some linkage or external system. The term relay (if mechanical internally) has a switch contact that turns on a circuit. It may have multiple internal contacts. The one pictured appears to be "farmer" installed and somewhat toasted on the far side terminals. There is a true solenoid on the starter. It both closes electrical high current contacts, it also pushes the starter drive pinion into engagement with the ring gear on the flywheel. I would go by the original wiring diagram in all cases. Paying attention to wire gauge and clean shiny terminals. If even a little nervous about the process, get a friend (or make one) that has that knowledge. Jim

 

[JimB2]

Hi see photo below for an early IH 434 Diesel electrical diagram with some explanation.
I believe on later models 444, 384 the 5 terminal Ignition switch was replaced with a 4 terminal ignition switch and the Ford like starter solenoid was added to the front of the firewall to power the glow plugs.
To activate the glow plugs on your tractor do you have to push IN and Hold the ignition key? Or has someone upgraded the glow plugs to the newer Mercedes fast heat type? Post back if you more info.

 

[Taiko]

Hi see photo below for an early IH 434 Diesel electrical diagram with some explanation.
I believe on later models 444, 384 the 5 terminal Ignition switch was replaced with a 4 terminal ignition switch and the Ford like starter solenoid was added to the front of the firewall to power the glow plugs.
To activate the glow plugs on your tractor do you have to push IN and Hold the ignition key? Or has someone upgraded the glow plugs to the newer Mercedes fast heat type? Post back if you more info.

View attachment 111089

Hi, thanks for your help.

I've spent some time today going over the tractor, and it looks like the previous owners had replaced the key switch to a 4 pin switch, bypassed the coil resistor (pepper pot) and used the number 3 position on the key switch to activate the solenoid to power the glow plugs. The wiring really is a pigsty, with different colored wires spliced to each other, so I may never really know what they were trying to do.

I've ordered some spare parts, like an ammeter and a resistor, but for now, if I activate the solenoid by turning the key to the number 3 position, at least two glow plugs will operate. I believe I may have a problem with the others (not much of an issue as it rarely gets below 5 degrees C here). I have found a wiring diagram for the 444 on the link below that has at least given me a greater insight to what is missing, and what parts I must replace.

Wiring Diagram 354-374-444 – International Harvester Heritage Association

 

[JimB2]

Hi, thanks for your help.

I've spent some time today going over the tractor, and it looks like the previous owners had replaced the key switch to a 4 pin switch, bypassed the coil resistor (pepper pot) and used the number 3 position on the key switch to activate the solenoid to power the glow plugs. The wiring really is a pigsty, with different colored wires spliced to each other, so I may never really know what they were trying to do.

I've ordered some spare parts, like an ammeter and a resistor, but for now, if I activate the solenoid by turning the key to the number 3 position, at least two glow plugs will operate. I believe I may have a problem with the others (not much of an issue as it rarely gets below 5 degrees C here). I have found a wiring diagram for the 444 on the link below that has at least given me a greater insight to what is missing, and what parts I must replace.

Wiring Diagram 354-374-444 – International Harvester Heritage Association

That is a good wiring diagram. So previous owner probably replaced 5 pin Ignition switch with 4 pin switch and added that solenoid as on the 4 pin Lucas switch used on the MF 135/165 it only powered one glow plug in the intake manifold and the reason for the extra solenoid was to handle the current requirements for the 4 glow plugs. If the terminal 3 of Ignition switch was wired directly to the pepper pot and then pepper pot to the 4 glow plugs, the current draw would probably over heat or burn the contacts for terminal 3.
Re Glow plugs, they are all wired in series and they either all work or none work. Could be previous owner changed them to new fast heat owns that are wired in parallel and use 12V but the little that I could see in one of your photos, it appears they are original wired in series. Check the copper wires that go between glow plugs, one wire is on large part of terminal on glow plugs closest to the engine, next wire on outside smaller part of terminal on glow plug.
You are correct if you live in a climate that never goes below 5*C then you don't require bypassing the pepper pot when cranking the engine.

 

[used red MN]

bypassed the coil resistor (pepper pot)

So a resistor is a “pepper pot”? Never heard of that! Okay, looked it up, it is the dash “glow indicator” for the glow plugs, it’s face with holes in it looks like a pepper shaker. See link, Glow plug “pepper pot”