Bought a 464 tractor loader. Clutch is stuck, been spraying PB Blaser and transmission fluid on disc and drining into sm stumps with clutch pedal down but will not brake loose. Also someone welded a wrench to the range shaft(forward reverse) that has broke off.
Thanks for any help!
 
The blaster and tranny fluid are really going to soak into the friction material and make a jerky and chattery clutch when it does get
free. The best is to split and replace. Next is to use the tractor out in a field where it can be driven with the clutch blocked down in
higher gears to both warm things up, and put driving force on them. Jim
 
Oil of any type on a clutch is not the answer and can become part of the problem. One needs to used brake cleaner spray to free up a clutch plus block the pedal down
 
Well i can say that i have never had one of them puppy's come thru the shop so i can not say what kind of access you have to the clutch area . But on the bigger tractors that i am more in tune with some times one can drop the inspection cover and depending on what style pressure plate it has you can remove three or four bolts and install three or four bolts twice as long as what you took out to act as dowel pins fo0r the pressure plate un hook the clutch linkage so the throw out bearing will move all the way back then take out the rest of the pressure plate bolts and allow everything to move back i should also say that before ya do all this it's a big plus if you first depress the clutch pedal before you start to remove bolts and block the fingers down . on some pressure plates they have three shipping bolt holes to install three usually 5/16th course bolts to hold the plate against the springs , some do not on those i wedge in some old 1/4 inch square headed nuts that i have between the fingers and the cover . Then once all but your long bolts are out then a good pry bar and start working your way around and hope it pops off the flywheel first and stays stuck to the pressure plate then if your LUCKY you then can use a stiff bladed putty knife to work your way around the pressure plate and get loose then just put things back together . Once back up and running take it out and slip the clutch to polish up everything . If you have no access then welp it's splitting time .
 
To add to the last part that Jim said get it moving in an open area in as high a gear as you can by using the throttle to shift. Raise the engine RPM up to about three quarters throttle. Then start raising and lowering the RPM with a second or so pause in between so the slack in the drive train is clashing. Kind of get a bucking bronco effect going. Of course you are holding down the clutch while do this or you have it blocked down. The higher gear gives the momentum of the tires and the machine more toque to the input shaft in the clutch plate to help the amount of play in the drivetrain to shock the plate to come unstuck. Similar to when pull starting a tractor the engine will turn easier in a higher gear.
 
Hi on the 464, you can do as Tractor Vet(TV) says access the clutch through the inspection plate on the bottom, there are no hold down bolt holes for the pressure plate fingers, new PP comes with wedges to hold the fingers down. Do as TV says lock the clutch down and put nuts or wedges under outside of PP fingers. The clutch shaft can be be release by pulling the pin in the clevis on the clutch adjusting rod by the clutch pedal. Again do as TV says put longer bolts one at a time that hold the PP to the flywheel. The engine cane be turned to access all the bolts on the PP by using a socket wrench on the bolts that hold the drive pulley on the crankshaft. original 464 only had a 3 Pad clutch but most were upgraded to 6 Pads same as 674.

See link to IH manuals for 54/64/74 series tractors.
Manual 464
 
(quoted from post at 17:35:43 08/25/21) Hi on the 464, you can do as Tractor Vet(TV) says access the clutch through the inspection plate on the bottom, there are no hold down bolt holes for the pressure plate fingers, new PP comes with wedges to hold the fingers down. Do as TV says lock the clutch down and put nuts or wedges under outside of PP fingers. The clutch shaft can be be release by pulling the pin in the clevis on the clutch adjusting rod by the clutch pedal. Again do as TV says put longer bolts one at a time that hold the PP to the flywheel. The engine cane be turned to access all the bolts on the PP by using a socket wrench on the bolts that hold the drive pulley on the crankshaft. original 464 only had a 3 Pad clutch but most were upgraded to 6 Pads same as 674.

See link to IH manuals for 54/64/74 series tractors.
Manual 464
[


The previous owner had taken all the PP bolts out and tried to drive the disc loose with a punch. Can I get to the range shifter shaft from the top cover off?]
 
Hi I assume you are talking about item #13 or 14 in the attached photo.
The shift lever can actually be replaced by removing the hydraulic MCV, see below from a long time IH mechanic, I believe he took a cheap 7/8 open end wrench and cut the handle shorter to fit in through the
MCV opening. Removing the MCV procedure will be in the IH service manual that I provided the link to.
It is very time consuming to remove all the seat, deck, fuel tank, hydraulic lines and 3pt housing, even longer if there is a roll bar. We always found it was easier to take the two fenders and fuel tank off
as a unit providing you have something to lift them with.

See Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hb1fNlrwc_g

Broken Shifter Lever:

I have changed many of those parts, at the Case-IH dealer, where I have worked for. You can remove the lever and replace it by the left side of the rear train. Just drain the oil, remove the MCV control
valve ( the plate that hold the hydraulic pump and filter) With a short 7/8 open wrench, loosen the sealed nut, remove the broken shaft and replace with the new one. It has a big spline for the timing. Just
align the short lever with the fork.
Bernard le mcano Qubec Canada




cvphoto98828.jpg
 
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