IH 504 fuel adjustment

[Gary57]

I purchased a new carburetor for my 504 international and it has a fuel jet adjustment on bottom of bowl. what is a good place to start this. it got moved several turns before I know what it was and tractor struggles to stay running. I have heard 1 1/2 turns out from bottom and also 5 turns. any suggestions.
also, starter turns over so slow and battery gets run down very fast. have checked all grounds and everything checks good all the way to starter. If it is not the starter is there the possibility of something wrong inside with the ring gear or flywheel?

 

[used red MN]

Hello Gary, welcome to YT! I don’t know about that carb, but on an M some guys say 5 turns out. Just a rough guess for a start point for you is 3 turns. The choke will give you plenty of enrichment for starting. I would not full choke it more than 3 - 4 turns of the engine as a rule an IH doesn’t need a lot of choke. You have an engine there that I am not familiar with at all. Now the 3 turns is just a suggested starting place that means once it is running adjusting it more according to how it reacts will be necessary. Okay, yea… your battery runs down quick, but you tell us nothing about it. Did you charge it? How old is it? Is it a group 24 that is supposed to be in there, what is the cold crank amps? Have you looked at the ignition side of your engine? Does it have a sharp blue spark that will jump a quarter inch? How do the points look? And above all how long you had the tractor? Did it run well before? Why a new carb?

 

[showcrop]

The adjustment on the bottom on most of these carbs is the high speed load adjustment and does not enter the picture until you have your RPMs elevated under a load. A good start point is 2.5 turns. The idle mixture screw is near the top and will be at an angle. it adjusts the amount of air so it is turned in to richen the mixture and out to lean it. a good start point is 1.5 turns. Like used red pointed out I can't tell if this information will actually help whatever problem you are trying to solve. Your electrical system is most likely 6 volts. 6 volt starters turn sloooowly.

 

[Gary57]

Hello Gary, welcome to YT! I don’t know about that carb, but on an M some guys say 5 turns out. Just a rough guess for a start point for you is 3 turns. The choke will give you plenty of enrichment for starting. I would not full choke it more than 3 - 4 turns of the engine as a rule an IH doesn’t need a lot of choke. You have an engine there that I am not familiar with at all. Now the 3 turns is just a suggested starting place that means once it is running adjusting it more according to how it reacts will be necessary. Okay, yea… your battery runs down quick, but you tell us nothing about it. Did you charge it? How old is it? Is it a group 24 that is supposed to be in there, what is the cold crank amps? Have you looked at the ignition side of your engine? Does it have a sharp blue spark that will jump a quarter inch? How do the points look? And above all how long you had the tractor? Did it run well before? Why a new carb?

thank you for your reply. appreciate the info for adjustments. I have only had the tractor 6 months. bought new battery, even a little bigger than one suppose to be in it because I had room. have put new plugs, wires, points, condensor, rotor cap.... ran good. but remained hard starting. tractor had sat long time so I took carb off to clean. couldn't get right kit. had a local farmer with IH look at it. He said it needed new carb so went ahead a got it. pulled tractor to start, sputtered a lot, then ran smooth, then just stopped. adjusted things, pulled to start, ran for about a minute and stopped again. that's why I think I have it way out of adjustment.

 

[Gary57]

The adjustment on the bottom on most of these carbs is the high speed load adjustment and does not enter the picture until you have your RPMs elevated under a load. A good start point is 2.5 turns. The idle mixture screw is near the top and will be at an angle. it adjusts the amount of air so it is turned in to richen the mixture and out to lean it. a good start point is 1.5 turns. Like used red pointed out I can't tell if this information will actually help whatever problem you are trying to solve. Your electrical system is most likely 6 volts. 6 volt starters turn sloooowly.

thank you for taking time to reply. It is a 12 volt system so should turn more quickly

 

[Janicholson]

thank you for taking time to reply. It is a 12 volt system so should turn more quickly

several things can contribute to slow cranking.
Partially discharged battery poor cable connections.
Small cables (should be #2 wire).
Starter motor with bad bushings allowing the armature to drag.
Too advanced timing (quick, near stop, quick sounding cranking noise)
Inductive Automotive Ammeter The use of a hand held starter amp meter is useful. (link) Amps should be 200 or less.

The carb situation is far more likely fuel supply related than the new Carb. You state it ran for a minute. SO that means it ran out of fuel, not an internal issue. The tank can have trash in it blocking the hole to the sediment bowl, there is a screen in the sediment bowl that could be plugged, there is a screen in the carb inlet fittings that often gets overlooked.
If you use a tin can under the carb, and remove the drain plug, there should be a rush of clean fuel, then a steady stream for about a pint every 2 minutes. If it slows to drips, it is not sufficient. Jim

 

[Gary57]

several things can contribute to slow cranking.
Partially discharged battery poor cable connections.
Small cables (should be #2 wire).
Starter motor with bad bushings allowing the armature to drag.
Too advanced timing (quick, near stop, quick sounding cranking noise)
Inductive Automotive Ammeter The use of a hand held starter amp meter is useful. (link) Amps should be 200 or less.

The carb situation is far more likely fuel supply related than the new Carb. You state it ran for a minute. SO that means it ran out of fuel, not an internal issue. The tank can have trash in it blocking the hole to the sediment bowl, there is a screen in the sediment bowl that could be plugged, there is a screen in the carb inlet fittings that often gets overlooked.
If you use a tin can under the carb, and remove the drain plug, there should be a rush of clean fuel, then a steady stream for about a pint every 2 minutes. If it slows to drips, it is not sufficient. Jim

thank you, when I go back to the farm next week I will check those things out. Blessings