IH 656

[69stang]

The fuel return line from the injection pump to the bottom of the fuel tank check valve seems to stick and not let fuel back to the tank. I've had issues with it over the last few years. The return line is clear and the check valve I have not found anything in it either. I think maybe the ball is getting stuck once in a while. Is that check valve necessary? What would happen if the check valve was removed?

 

[rustred]

The fuel return line from the injection pump to the bottom of the fuel tank check valve seems to stick and not let fuel back to the tank. I've had issues with it over the last few years. The return line is clear and the check valve I have not found anything in it either. I think maybe the ball is getting stuck once in a while. Is that check valve necessary? What would happen if the check valve was removed?

if the check valve would stick closed the engine will stop. i have had that problem on the 282's and have removed the ball. nothing will happen other than fuel will run out when you remove the return line. it just has to over come the hydrostatic pressure to return the fuel to the tank. something like 5 lbs.

 

[bob p mn]

When I had that problem on my 656 it was the coffee ground like pieces from the gov retainer in the IP going to heck causing the problem with the check valve. But if that's your problem I do think you would see them.

 

[69stang]

Thanks,
I hope the pump is not breaking down. If it is I guess I will probably take the check valve out and run the pump as long as I can.

 

[Dieseltech]

Thanks,
I hope the pump is not breaking down. If it is I guess I will probably take the check valve out and run the pump as long as I can.

If the ring inside the pump is breaking down you SHOULD notice the engine speed go up/down without ever moving the throttle too. If it gets bad enough engine will die, but restart fine again five minutes later as the housing pressure bleeds slowly off again. There are some tractors around here running fine with that check ball removed, but when the flex ring bits plug the return engine WILL lose power and stall. If engine speed DOES change on it's own better get the pump removed and repaired ASAP, or you WILL EVENTUALLY shear off the retainer pins, SEIZE the hydraulic head AND break the drive shaft. That gets REALLY EXPENSIVE fast...

 

[m16ty]

Like others have said, I would bet on your governor flex ring inside your injector pump is coming apart. It’s a very common problem.

You can knock the glass ball out of the check valve and it will run, but you really need to get the injector pump repaired. When the flex ring finally disintegrates you will have metal to metal contact between the drive plate and the governor retainer, which will start putting metal particles inside your pump.

 

[used red MN]

Thanks,
I hope the pump is not breaking down. If it is I guess I will probably take the check valve out and run the pump as long as I can.

Do you feel the tractor is not worth spending $4-$500 on it to repair the pump? I would check with Dieseltech via a private message to see what he would charge now before you have trashed it.

 

[m16ty]

Do you feel the tractor is not worth spending $4-$500 on it to repair the pump? I would check with Dieseltech via a private message to see what he would charge now before you have trashed it.

Last price I was quote on an injector pump rebuild was $1,000.
That’s when I started working on them myself. Parts to fix the issue is less than $50.

 

[69stang]

Agreed, I'll need to send it out for repair.
Thanks all