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Implement Prices

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C

carpetfarmer

Member
Here in Northeast Kansas used implement prices (CL) have skyrocketed over the past 6 months to just flat stupid crazy numbers.

Ex:
6' 3 pt Angle Blade $200-$500
6' 3 pt Box Blade $400+
6' 3 pt Finish Mower $600-$1200 (Runs the gamut from junk to decent shape)
6' 3 pt Brush Hog $500-$1000
7' 3 pt Sickle Mower $300-$1000
6' 3 pt Disc $500-$1000
3 pt 2 Bottom Plow $225-$400 (Incomplete, Unknown Sizes)
3 pt Bale Spear $150-$300
3 pt Dirt Slip $50-$400
3 pt Ballast (Plastic Barrel Filled w/ Concrete) $125

And most of those prices, especially things like finish mowers, box blades and plows, the "cheap" ones are very well worn out! Don't even get me started on hay equipment prices!! Side Delivery Basket Rakes $750++, Small Square Balers $1200+++

What's the deal with this? At first, I thought maybe scrap prices were up, but scrap is down at rock bottom around $40/ton. How are implement prices in other parts of the country?
 

Yes prices are up I can sell my implements for what I paid for them new, are make money on what I brought used... That's not a bad thing is it...
 
Syracuse NY area here.
Even old riding lawn mowers with no deck start out at $150 and go up
One local 8N, owner claims owned the last 40 years, priced at $1800 and looks like been stored outdoors all of them 40 yrs
 
Asking prices and selling prices are not necessarily the same.
I have noticed the asking prices going up around me too.
Maybe I should sell some of my stuff.
If I could get what they're asking I certainly would.

I have a JD 3pt 7 foot 9 shank field cultivator that I offered for sale.
I priced it at $250 and I'd load it on their trailer with my loader.
I was told TSC sells a 4 ft brand new for $280 so they'd just buy that one.
At least they won't need a loader to pick it up and move it.

I really don't have hard feelings over that but I have to wonder how
long people are planning on keeping and using their implements.
 
So far, I am on the purchasing side of this spectrum and have only sold 3 implements...0 tractors.

I'm an old soul, born a couple generations late and I tend to set "my" fair market value lower than today's "standards". I don't see any reason to pay 3/4 to full price for a used implement, especially they way some of these implements have been used. Sure, you can pick up a brush hog for $4-500 all day long, but there's going to be oil all over the gearbox, 1/2 the deck will be rusted completely through and who knows what they were mowing with it. A $400 6' box blade is going to be bent like a pretzel and painted rust brown with half the ripper teeth missing. And a $250-$300 sickle mower has just been pulled out of the hedge row, who knows what condition it's in. The story continues on down the line. I know I'm cheap and old fashioned. It's a good thing I don't need all my attachments RIGHT NOW, because I can (not-so)patiently wait for a good deal to come along.
 
What's the deal with this? At first, I thought maybe scrap prices were up, but scrap is down at rock bottom .......
Click to expand...

A lot of the fair to worn out implements went for quick no questions asked easy cash . What you find now is the stuff people held on to . I saw a lot of N's and 70's - 80's cars and trucks go to the crusher .

I don't post much on facebook but I follow about a dozen local swap shops , "The Man's Swap shop" , Farm & Ranch Swap shop , etc , just to keep an eye on prices and good deals ( usually when I am lacking play money )
 
Those prices aren't far from what I've seen over the last few years at auction, and some of the stuff at auction should have went to the scrap yard instead of the auction...

New Implement Prices have driven the price of just about any shape used implement up, and if its in good shape, you can get 80% of new price for them.

Being able to weld and not afraid of repairs, I have been able to get quite a few implements at 'reasonable' prices, also hitting up the smaller auctions that are on the same weekends as the bigger sales helps too.

I got a 5ft. cultivator last fall for $5, with 3 broken tines. I watched a similar cultivator with just one broken tine sell for $250 at auction 2 weeks ago... so I think I did ok...

Patience is the key, I bought a beat up 6ft. pull type brush hog for $100 several years ago, and used it, even though it was a pain with our hills, trees, trails etc... and this last week I was able to get a 3pt. 5ft Brush Hog in great shape for $100 off a guy who had it in a pile of implements, I was there to get a Crispy 4WD Mahindra with Loader and Finish Mower for my daughter's boyfriend (He wanted the loader for his John Deer), and I ended up with a Brush Hog, Landscape Rake, Post Hole Digger and Wood Chipper, all 3pt. for $400 just to get the last of the tractor parts out of his yard... I couldn't have gotten the Brush Hog for that at the Auctions I have been at over the last 2 years. Now its time to clean up the pull type and see what I can get out of it...
 
I just bought a real nice 6' Rhino finish mower for $385 which according to other finish mower prices I've seen was a steal! But the seller also had a 7' sickle mower that hadn't been used since the '80's and wanted $950 for it. After I agreed to buy the mower, I had to give the seller a tutorial on how to operate his 8N because he informed me that he couldn't load it on my trailer because the tractor (3 pt) wouldn't raise. I showed him how to operate the 3 pt and then he told me to load it up on the trailer because I obviously had more experience than he did. Anyways, after I got the mower all loaded, unhooked and the tractor safely back on the ground we began shooting the breeze about the tractor. Mechanically, it was a VERY nice tractor, quite new tires, strong engine and steady 3pt. Aesthetically, it wasn't rusty, but the paint was several years old. Then with a straight face, he told me he was going to advertise it for $4,000!! I said thank you and drove away.
 
"used/old garden tractors are just plain nuts!"

I have to agree with that Steve!
The old JD 200 series will bring as much as an N here.
The cost of a 140 H3 would get you in the hundred series at least.

I have three or four JD 200 series garden tractors. Love them.
But each tool has its purpose and I don't see that kind of money.
Last 212 I bought came with a snowblower for $300.
That one I thought was a great deal.
Even though it was a newer one with the electric clutch.
I prefer the manual clutch on those 200's.

It does have the electric lift and I like that for the blower.
 
That 2 bottom plow price is right on the money what they bring in Nebraska. Took me ten years to find a plow for $100. Found it right across the street!
 
The price of new is up like everything else and I think that what drives the used price up, are the tractor dealers who base their used prices on the new price primarily.

Unless it's a beater needing repair like my MF brush cutter for the $200. I got it from through Island Tractor.
but go check out their used prices generally . . . Yikes!

Click on Pre-Owned
UsedImps

So one needs to buy from farmers who know that the implement has paid them many times over, wanna see it go to a good home and stuff like that . . .

doesn't owe them a thing except for having looked after it.

Like the Post Hole Digger I was looking at.
The man phoned the main tractor dealer in this area, and they told him his Post Holler was worth $600 - $800.

bye bye any hope of a sweetheart deal. :)
 
P.S.

And they give out those kinds of price assessments over the phone, never having seen the implement.
 
Just spotted this one here on my island for an asking price of $350.

It seems to me I need something wider than my wheels . . . is that right. That wide blue Ford one I missed out on with the 12 extra sweeps appears to be a significantly improvement over this one.

34466.jpg
 
[b:7a7d01ac55]So sorry!![/b:7a7d01ac55]
That's what I get for not renaming photos--just leaving a file number.
Here's the one I meant to post:
34467.jpg
 
The price you'll pay for implements is inversely proportional to your level of patience.
If you're in a hurry you will pay a lot more than if you lay in the weeds and wait for a bargain.
It's taken me 15 years to assemble the few implements I have. But they are good, name brand ones and I don't have a lot of money in them.
Also, are you meaning a real Bush Hog or are you talking about some off brand rotary cutter?
If some off brand, those prices are too high.
If a real Bush Hog? those prices are reasonable.
 
(quoted from post at 15:09:23 03/28/16) That looks to be a 7 foot wide 2 row spring tooth cultivator. Any wider and you start hoeing out adjacent rows.
Click to expand...

John,

That first one with the fenders belongs to WellMax.
the one available for $350. is that pale red 5 shank one and the owner says this about it:

5' wide 5 shank spring tine cultivator

Thanks,
T
 

John,
I don't have the wheels spaced out but they are 13.5" on Hat Box rims . . . figure that one out. :D
 

Hobo,

The owner thinks it's fair too. :wink:

Speaking of needing a cultivator . . .
I did a little plowing an hour ago and I mean [i:d20e7b7009]a little[/i:d20e7b7009]

Randy Batterydown rides again! :D

The ground was too hard in about half of it for my walk behind rototiller last Spring, and I didn't have this Ford 110 single then, so I gave it a go in this very confined and irregular shaped little garden, to break it up.

For that small space I expect you guys might have recommended a cultivator in the first place for what I just did, instead of the plow. I did get a lot of green buried this time though.

One thing ( one thing - that's a laugh!) that I don't have right is that I think the plow was pulling itself too deep even with the depth wheel, because the top link was too short. I'm having to lift it a hair to get rolling again. I have the depth wheel set at about 8".

Got myself slid into the fence at the end (in the right side of the photo) but managed to wiggle my way out without baggin' out the fence.
34497.jpg
 
So far, I don't NEED any more attachments or 1/2 of the ones I have now, so I can wait them out. I haven't been in too big of a hurry, so I've done ok, you just have to know what you're willing to pay and what you want. Then just beat everyone else to the punch when contacting the seller if you find a good deal.

UD - Any brand on the rotary mowers, the $500-$800 range is normally your CountyLine, King Kutter, old JD, old style BMB mowers and so on. The name brands like Bush Hog, newer JD, Landpride, Rhino, etc are normally in the $850-$1200 range unless they're just a couple years old. Finish mowers are the same way. $500 for a pos or homemade jobber. $600-$800 for a King Kutter/Countyline or old school Woods. $900-$1500 for a Landpride, Rhino, etc.

I tend to follow Tall T's thoughts, with "buy from farmers who know that the implement has paid them many times over, wanna see it go to a good home and stuff like that . . ." Someone I can strike up a conversation with and learn something. I love talking to people like that. That's part of the reason I like reading this forum. It's not face to face, but its an online version of the same thing.

On a side note. How much tractor would it take to run that chisel? Would an N pull it? There's a 6' 7 Shank for $400. Again, seems a bit high to me, but I would much rather have a chisel than a plow. The 7 shank would definitely have to go on the Case 1190 but still not sure if it'll handle it.
 
(quoted from post at 17:15:36 03/28/16) "Depth wheel"? Are you referring to the rolling landside (wheel) at the rear of the plow?
Click to expand...

Sorry, my Ford 110 has no rolling Landside at the rear, just a heel.
What I mean is the wide steel wheel that limits the depth the plow can go, AFAIK.

Thanks,
Terry
34498.jpg
34499.jpg
 
Michigan John,

Here's a better photo of how it is setup right now.
Those other photos were when I first dragged it home.
34501.jpg
 

Quite the evolution!
From Rug Rat to Carpetfarmer :)

Continuing in that vein . . .
There are a lot of elderly people (like us) out there with implements they don't or won't use anymore AND importantly they know they have all the money they'll ever need.

So they enjoy being able to make a new friend as you say, pass on their knowledge and give you such a good deal on an implement that it really constitutes a fulfilling, gift giving on their part.

I remember at one point in my life realizing I wasn't appreciating the gift that some acquisition was, and the part of me that could have been a little more appreciative of the gift factor was overtaken by the pride of getting such a good deal.

I guess that's what defines, or constitutes a sweetheart deal.

From my end, when I have decided to let something go, I have forgotten that because something was a gift of a deal, then what I paid for it was way less than what a good used price would be. So I totally under price it, undervalue it and underestimate the gift once again, letting it go way too cheap . . . especially dopey at a time when I've needed the money. :)

So in a sense, letting it go too cheap to a passing stranger, is a passive insult to the one who, knowing full well it's market value, pretty much made a gift of it to you,

In fact, one of those dopey and hasty sale times was probably what made me more mindful of, and to try to never be forgetful of sweetheart deals
like not being forgetful of favors.

Terry
 
I must be real lucky, people are still calling me asking me to haul them off. picked up 3 n fords last week, 100.00 each, went to the scrappers, along with 2 row crop cultivators and a plow thrown in with the tractors.
 

I have done some plow'N with out a furrow wheel with out problems. I don't think you need the gauge wheel but it is cool...

You need to find a place to air that plow out so you can get the hang of it and how to set the draft...
 
Hobo said:
[color=darkblue:eefc65e35e]You need to find a place to air that plow out so you can get the hang of it and how to set the draft...[/color:eefc65e35e]

No kidding!
A big open space, no fences, no big rocks, no roots and uniform soil.

In fact I was actually going to start a thread to say that rookies like me could use a good tutorial on the use of the draft control. I still don't get it totally.

Here's what I "think" I know . . .
One sets the desired depth with the position control and then engages the draft lever . . . but that is probably totally off-base. :)

Thanks,
t
 
P.S.

That is . . . I do understand the principle of what it does as far as sensing the draft load and automatically working the hydraulics to maintain the same depth over hill and dale . . . . from watching videos and reading Ford books . . . but i still don't know how to use it properly.
 

In draft mode I drop the leaver all the way down so the plow will dig in fast once its in the ground good move the leave to about haft way and adjust to my like'N once you find what you like adjust the stop gizmo so you can use it as a reference. I am moving this just makes it go in the ground faster are you could just always go back to the stop position either at a stand still are moving.

Once you get the hang of it, it will take very little movement to change the dept of the plow a inch are so either way.
 
(quoted from post at 22:57:55 03/29/16) P.S.

That is . . . I do understand the principle of what it does as far as [color=red:d734453867]sensing the draft load and automatically working the hydraulics to maintain the same depth over hill and dale [/color:d734453867]. . . . from watching videos and reading Ford books . . . but i still don't know how to use it properly.
Click to expand...

Draft control does not maintain a set [b:d734453867][u:d734453867]depth[/u:d734453867][/b:d734453867]. It maintains the amount of pull (draft/load/resistance) the plow is putting on the tractor in order to prevent loosing traction/bogging down in areas of hard/heavy soil. It does that by [b:d734453867]varying the depth[/b:d734453867] to match changes in soil condition - up in heavier soil and down in lighter soil.

TOH
 
TOH,

You wrote:

[color=darkblue:506b6da395]Draft control does not maintain a set depth. It maintains the amount of pull (draft/load/resistance) the plow is putting on the tractor in order to prevent loosing traction/bogging down in areas of hard/heavy soil. [/color:506b6da395]

Ah so! That describes exactly what I have encountered so far; i.e., the tractor bogging down in heavy often wet soil, tires would spin and at that point I would inch the plow up as little as I had to, in order to get moving forward again.

[color=darkblue:506b6da395]It does that by varying the depth to match changes in soil condition - up in heavier soil and down in lighter soil.[/color:506b6da395]

How is it that the norm of draft resistance is established, so that draft control knows when it is excessive and auto adjusts to relieve it? Is it because the tractor's forward momentum is impeded? But if my tires full of heavy soil and slipping, wouldn't that be LESS pressure on the draft spring because I've broken traction?

Getting there :)
Thanks,
T
 
Hobo,

You wrote:
[color=darkblue:f91814ef93]In draft mode I drop the leaver all the way down so the plow will dig in fast. Once its in the ground good move the leave to about haft way and adjust to my like'N.[/color:f91814ef93]

Do you mean move the lever up until the plow lifts to where you want the plow height to be set?

Once you find what you like adjust the stop gizmo so you can use it as a reference.

I understand.

[color=darkblue:f91814ef93]I am moving this just makes it go in the ground faster are you could just always go back to the stop position either at a stand still are moving. [/color:f91814ef93]

I can't understand what you mean there.

[color=darkblue:f91814ef93]Once you get the hang of it, it will take very little movement to change the dept of the plow a inch are so either way.[/color:f91814ef93]

It is tricky to get just an inch of lift.

Thanks,
T
 
[b:60b307ea47]Something Zane wrote that I forgot I had saved:[/b:60b307ea47]

Put the little lever that is under the seat in the down (draft control position) Move the lift lever till the plow drops to the ground.advance the tractor and gradually move the lever more down till the plow is at the depth you wish to plow and then set the lever at this point with the stop to make it stay there.

The little lever under the seat is the mode selector lever. It us moved from position mode when up to draft when it is down. Position lets you hold the lift arms at a given or selected height.

Draft control allows you to have the ground engaging implement (plow etc) to automatically raise or lower itself according to the texture or hardness of the ground it is ingaging. If you want the plow to go deeper you gradually move the touch control handle down just a little and then set the quadrant stop so that the touch control handle will not go down any farther than it is set. This will allow you to return to the same load on the tractor when the plow is raised to turn around etc.
 
Terry,
Ford tractors with draft control have an on
board computer that senses the tires
slipping or the engine bogging down under
too heavy of a draft load.
The computer adjusts the touch control to
increase or lessen the load being pulled.
The computer sits in the seat smiling as it
adjusts the the touch control and marvels at
how clever Harry Ferguson was :)
 
(quoted from post at 14:19:25 03/30/16) Terry,
Ford tractors with draft control have an on
board computer that senses the tires
slipping or the engine bogging down under
too heavy of a draft load.
The computer adjusts the touch control to
increase or lessen the load being pulled.
The computer sits in the seat smiling as it
adjusts the the touch control and marvels at
how clever Harry Ferguson was :)
Click to expand...

Jerry,

Well I'll be chawed and spat out!
So that's how it works!

I've been doing that inching of the quadrant upward when I bogged down, but once rolling again I'd lower the quadrant all the way again. . . only to repeat the same process because I hadn't engaged draft control.

Thanks for dumbing it down. :D
T

P.S.
Speaking of computers, I haven't been able to get any YT page to not get hung up loading since 4 PM, yet any other web site was fine. Anyone else experiencing the same today?
 
P.S.
Speaking of computers, I haven't been able to get any YT page to not get hung up loading since 4 PM, yet any other web site was fine. Anyone else experiencing the same today?
Click to expand...

it was down for me too. i see no posts between 4 and midnight, so it looks like we're not alone.
 
(quoted from post at 22:42:47 03/30/16)
P.S.
Speaking of computers, I haven't been able to get any YT page to not get hung up loading since 4 PM, yet any other web site was fine. Anyone else experiencing the same today?
Click to expand...

it was down for me too. i see no posts between 4 and midnight, so it looks like we're not alone.
Click to expand...

Same here just got it to log on and it's 12:37 am Pac. time....
 

Local Annual Auction in the Mohawk Valley. Out of control prices!

Two bottom plows, $600 all day long
mulchers, $3,750 all day long
Wooden hay wagons on gear, $1,400 all day and up and up.

Some stuff reasonable, if no bids. Highest I've seen in a year at this Auction site.

Did everyone get money back from the Fed's?

Was burning holes in pockets.
 
Mark,

Speaking of $600 for a two-bottom, this one just came up in my area for $600 as well . For a SINGLE Bottom ???
34650.jpg
 
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