Inherited B

[961kyle]

I recently inherited my great grandpas farmall b. My uncle had it for years and wanted it gone. He never had it really running for longer than a few minutes and it would die. He said he had about 5 guys messing with it and has no idea what they did or tried. Bought a service manual and pretty sure I got it timed but still cant get it to go. Guess Im just looking for ideas. Thanks in advance. Would really like to get it going myself.

 

[Janicholson]

If it starts and rund for a minute, it is likely a fuel flow issue. If longer, it could be that, or ignition. There is a plug in the bottom of the carburetor
that will allow you to test fuel delivery. If it flows well into a can for 2 minutes, and makes a pint or so of fuel it is OK there. If the fuel looks good. If
electrical it needs to make spark for 1/4 inch from the wire leading to the distributor cap to block after it stops. Jim

 

[gene bender]

If it starts and runs the problem is not timing it is gas. Just stop and think it starts but does not keep
running so it must be fuel. SHUT off the gas at the sediment bowl and remove the glass then turn the gas on to
see if any comes out not a trickle but good flow there is probably stuff in that valve slowing down the flow

 

[Farmallb]

As said below. BUT you might also consider IF that proves to be the problem taking the gas tank off
and recoating the inside.

 

[Ken Hansen]

First thing I would suggest would be to explain what it is or isn't doing. And any idea the last time it actually ran, last week, last month, last year, 1990?

What if any mechanical skills do you have, not detailed but just something so those trying to help have an idea of what to suggest.

Is it cranking over with starter or are you hand cranking it.

Does it have spark, do you have any idea how to tell?

Did you turn on the fuel shut off, do you know where it is?

How about a rough idea where you are, maybe someone here lives down the block or near enough to stop by for a look. Don't get too specific, you don't want someone sneaking in and removing it while you are at work!

 

[Athol Carr]

There is also a filter in the inlet to the carburettor

 

[961kyle]

Im

 

[961kyle]

Well evidently Im still learning on here too ha. Im fairly mechanical and want to learn more. Located in Iowa. Uncle said it he pull started 4 to 5 years ago and it ran for a very short time. Less than a minute. I put a new battery on it is how Im turning it over. Pulled spark plug and held to block and watched spark is how I know Im getting spark. Fuel is on and I did take the fuel line off carb to watch flow and it is flowing very well. He did suggest starting over on the carb as far as a new one or a rebuild but I think thats just where he gave.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

These tractors are as simple as it gets. If you have spark, fuel, any sort of compression, and the timing is anywhere near right, they will run. Maybe not well at first but that can be fixed in almost all cases.

If you've got good spark at all four spark plugs, new ignition parts are just a waste of time and money at this point.

Put your thumb over an open spark plug hole while cranking. If it develops pressure, either blowing past your thumb or pushing your thumb off, it's got enough compression to run.

 

[Ken Hansen]

Agree with Barnyard!

So if you have those points covered the next step I might be looking at is the carb.

Do like Janicholson suggested to see if you have good flow of gas out the drain plug on carb. If so that should tell you everything up to the float valve in carb is open.

Next step might be to remove and clean the carb inside.

There are I think maybe four different carbs used on these tractors depending on if they were gasoline or distillate tractors. A couple good pictures of the carb would probably get you an answer to which you have.

 

[George by Geneva, NY]

I have an A that acted the same when I tried to get it running. Spray ether or drip gas in the carb inlet and it would run. Finally, took main metering device out, aka jet, it was reduced in diameter by crud and there was more blockage beyond. Cleaned it out and runs fine now. Got the tractor not running so had to chase cause. Use a good screwdriver to loosen the jet as you only got one shot at it, round the slot and new carb time. Oxy-acet tip cleaner tool works good to clean the hole in the jet.

 

[961kyle]

Thanks guys. I do have good compression with the thumb over the hole check. Good flow of gas out the carb. I know the carb is a zenith but cant find a part number on it. Im guessing since I have good spark and good compression it has to be the carb. Are the different carbs they used on these interchangeable or do I have to get another zenith if I choose to replace it? Ill try a good cleaning first.

 

[SDE]

Remove the gas cap. Try to start it. The vent could be plugged, but I doubt that that is the problem. Is there an inline fuel filter. It could be another restriction that can cause a problem. Most likely is a piece of crud that is restricting a passage and it is slowly starving the engine. After is off for a while the passage fills with gas and again it will run good for a short time.
Good Luck.

 

[karlinpa]

had a farmall c the air cleaner cap at the bottom that holds the oil was overfull restricting air and tractor would die
after short while just a shot

 

[961kyle]

Update. Got it set to TDC and took off the cap which was pointing at cylinder 3. Retimed it. Recleaned the carb. Fired right up. Was a very happy moment. Definitely need some new gaskets thinking I have some air leaks cause I cant open the choke all the way but she runs.


Now my question is why would when I have the clutch pushed all the way does it still want to move when I have it in gear?

 

[OleIronKyle53]

Lucky to have a B! My grandfather had one too. We sold it at our family auction back in 2014 here in MI. I have been looking for it ever since. Supposably went to a Local
Collector...

 

[961kyle]

Silver lining I guess you know it didnt end up in a scrap yard if it did go to a collector but I understand wanting to get it back. Its been fun having so far and definitely learning a lot.

 

[Ken Hansen]

Now my question is why would when I have the clutch pushed all the way does it still want to move when I have it in gear?

First guess is if the tractor has be parked without running for several years the flywheel and pressure plate are a bit on the rusty side and just needs to be run a bit.

If you have some wide open spaces to drive tractor I would see if you could get it started in gear and drive it around with clutch pushed in to see if it frees up. Just be sure you do this where you won't hit anything!

 

[Rich'sToys]

(quoted from post at 08:53:25 10/13/20)

Now my question is why would when I have the clutch pushed all the way does it still want to move when I have it in gear?

First guess is if the tractor has be parked without running for several years the flywheel and pressure plate are a bit on the rusty side and just needs to be run a bit.

If you have some wide open spaces to drive tractor I would see if you could get it started in gear and drive it around with clutch pushed in to see if it frees up. Just be sure you do this where you won't hit anything!

Another thought--if you try this test as Ken described, maybe hit the brakes occasionally while moving. This might help to jar it loose.

 

[961kyle]

Hung some weight on the clutch for a few days and she shifts perfectly so Im guessing the disc and flywheel were or are just rusty and sticking. Just needs to be driven Im thinking.

I did just checking things out on it take the transmission cover off to see the gears and the oil thats in there is yellow. Looks like mustard its that yellow. Is that from moisture?

Will be changing all the fluid just more curious than anything

 

[Ken Hansen]

(quoted from post at 06:57:52 10/14/20) Hung some weight on the clutch for a few days and she shifts perfectly so Im guessing the disc and flywheel were or are just rusty and sticking. Just needs to be driven Im thinking.

I did just checking things out on it take the transmission cover off to see the gears and the oil thats in there is yellow. Looks like mustard its that yellow. Is that from moisture?

Will be changing all the fluid just more curious than anything

Sounds good! Will probably get better with use.

As for the oil some gear oil will have a yellowish look especially if it is a bit foamed up. I'd run it around a bit to get it warmed up some and stirred up good and then drain leaving it set maybe over night to drain real good.