Inline Hydraulic Float Valve

[farmersamm]

Has anyone ever plumbed in a float valve on an 1850. Something inline, not in the valve body, that will allow oil to recirculate back to the reservoir when using a single acting cylinder. I'm thinking it has to be electrically operated so it can be disabled to restore the cylinder to lifting capability without climbing off the tractor.

Can't run the Krone mower without float. It completely disables the lower pivot on the linkage. Unless the lift cylinder can float, the weight of the bed will be hanging on the lift cylinder. The lower pivot becomes inoperable.

 

[scootergmc]

Can't you run off the power beyond? Perhaps I'm not understanding.

 

[farmersamm]

This is what I have. A single acting cylinder attached to the tractor. Works fine. BUT I NEED THE CYLINDER TO FLOAT.

I need to block the line coming from the factory remote, and provide a bypass so that the fluid can flow to/from the reservoir.......which I think will provide float. And, I need it to be temporarily mounted outside the tractor in the hydraulic line, or something that can plug into the remote.

It has to be solenoid operated so that it can easily, and instantly, be activated. It's for a disc mower. Need to be able to lift on headlands, or to clear obstacles...................then immediately return to float. A hand valve won't work. Too slow, and requires more than two hands to safely operate.

The tractor has the Hydra Electric on it, but I'm not sure what it is, or how it works............I'll be looking in the manual later tonight. I'm wondering if this system is remotely applicable to what I'm needing......................or can the lever mounted switch be used to activate a remote solenoid.

 

[random_farmhick]

Just get a solenoid valve, tee into a hydraulic line, and then run the other side of the solenoid valve over to the left side of the hydraulic housing where the really big plug is, and dump the oil in there. Put your switch on the lever, or wherever you want, and there you go. I've gotten solenoid valves off of surplus center online before.

 

[farmersamm]

Just get a solenoid valve, tee into a hydraulic line, and then run the other side of the solenoid valve over to the left side of the hydraulic housing where the really big plug is, and dump the oil in there. Put your switch on the lever, or wherever you want, and there you go. I've gotten solenoid valves off of surplus center online before.

I'll take a look for that plug this morning. Thank You. If it's the priority valve, I need to see how it works.

I watched Losey's video on Power Beyond. He showed where the return to reservoir is located on the 50 series. Bottom of the reservoir, near the back of the left side as you're facing front of tractor. I'm thinking, since it's at the bottom of the reservoir, it might be ideal............allowing the floating cylinder to suck fluid out as it moves.

Gotta locate something today. We're going into the weekend, and nothing's open in Tulsa.

 

[farmersamm]

Can't you run off the power beyond? Perhaps I'm not understanding.

Your comment led me to look at one of Losey's videos concerning Power Beyond. I think I see a kernel of a solution.

 

[farmersamm]

Believe I found the return.

Thanks Doooooods!!

Without a floating cylinder, the cutter bed will hang on the cylinder rod instead of the float springs.

Bit o' surgery on the disc caddy, and some hopefully simple plumbing, and I might get this thing in the field before Christmas.

 

[scootergmc]

Your comment led me to look at one of Losey's videos concerning Power Beyond. I think I see a kernel of a solution.

Yep, install a float valve with the power beyond and the return. Problem solved, no?

 

[farmersamm]

I'm looking at the Parker DSL103 series valve cartridges, and a Parker C10-3 body. If these are the right type of valves, they seem reasonable from Fleabay, and Zoro, and others. Maybe a comined price in the $200 range......or a bit less. Problem is availability for quick installation. Shipping time.

 

[scootergmc]

Availability? You have a Tractor Supply or similar nearby? I would think they have something single spool with float capability in stock for less than $200.

 

[farmersamm]

Availability? You have a Tractor Supply or similar nearby? I would think they have something single spool with float capability in stock for less than $200.

I'm not getting any callbacks on the solenoid valves. Salesmen

I might have to go with a regular in-cab auxiliary valve.............................If I can get ahold of one, or it can be made to work with a single acting cylinder. Hydraulics isn't my game............at least on the tractor. I only deal with stuff beyond.

Posted some links to tractor supply valves...................only one of which is actually available without lengthy shipping time. Links messed up so I'm gonna spend the rest of the day doing something constructive. Take care, and thanks for trying.

 

[farmersamm]

Just get a solenoid valve, tee into a hydraulic line, and then run the other side of the solenoid valve over to the left side of the hydraulic housing where the really big plug is, and dump the oil in there. Put your switch on the lever, or wherever you want, and there you go. I've gotten solenoid valves off of surplus center online before.

What valve would you use. I can go the Ebay, Zoro, route at this point. There isn't a doggone thing available local. See my post concerning the possibility of the Parker valves. I can have those bought this weekend, and probably here before a manual in cab valve. Nobody stocks ANYTHING anymore.

 

[farmersamm]

The Local Parker Rep
Came Through

​

Didn't get the Email till late in the day, but got it all the same. ON THE SHELF READY FOR PICKUP. Sammy gonna roll on in to Tulsa next week.

Zee valve.

Zee body.

Zee leetle magical electrical thingy that makes it all work.

AND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I don't have to add more crap to an already small cab. Already getting hemmed in by the baler monitor, and the Global Missile Defense Command Center

 

[random_farmhick]

The Local Parker Rep
Came Through
View attachment 84015
​

Didn't get the Email till late in the day, but got it all the same. ON THE SHELF READY FOR PICKUP. Sammy gonna roll on in to Tulsa next week.

View attachment 84016
Zee valve.

View attachment 84017

Zee body.

View attachment 84018

Zee leetle magical electrical thingy that makes it all work.

AND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I don't have to add more crap to an already small cab. Already getting hemmed in by the baler monitor, and the Global Missile Defense Command CenterView attachment 84019

Glad they came through. I know what you mean about an already small cab. I have a year a round on my 1850 that I use for spraying. I have a John Deere auto steer unit on the column, the display on the right, then to the right the sprayer controller. I actually need to get a diverter valve for mine, so I'll have another switch to put in the cab. I run a hydraulic motor through power beyond for the sprayer pump, but I use a flow control valve and the way I have it plumbed, it keeps my oil temps in check.

 

[farmersamm]

I figure I'll keep the entire job in this thread. The caddy modifications are part of the same deal I guess.

Pulled the mower off the caddy this evening. I had wanted to spend the day on this, which would have put me much further along, but the heat index today hit 110*. We decided to get a start about an hour before sundown, just to beat the heat. I'm a geezer, and she's approaching geezerdom............we don't weather the heat like we used to.

Anyways..........I don't believe this caddy was really designed for this particular mower. I might be wrong. This is my first experience with anything but my old Hesston Hydro Swing.

With the high cut skids I built, the mower isn't at the correct height for the caddy. I've run out of adjustments. I figure I need another 6ish" in height.

I need to stack another bit of plate on top of the existing mounts.

My fairly close examination indicates that the welds joining the section of plate with the holes, is not a full pen weld. As a result, I don't trust adding additional height without some reinforcement. Just another fly in the ointment. This is a management issue. The guy doing the welding probably just did what the boss wanted. It's held up this long apparently, but adding more stress from additional height might be a recipe for disaster, unless the assembly is reinforced.

Zee Germans specify that the pin has to line up with the arrow.

I could only get as close as in the previous pic, even after jacking the caddy up almost 3". We gots a ways to go. 6" might be the magic number, or real close to it.

Pull the caddy into bay 2 in the "shop" tomorrow, and get to it I guess.

 

[farmersamm]

$209 Dollah out the door. Happy........you betcha!!!

For those in the Oklahoma area........I highly recommend Aberdeen Dynamics for your hydraulic needs. First thing they do is shoot you over to their engineering department to put together a package that will handle your needs. Genuine Parker components.

I can put up part numbers if anybody needs them. Rather wait until it's in service so I can say they're the right thing for the job.

 

[farmersamm]

In the "shop" for modifications. Need to raise the mounting points.

Some straightening required before fixturing new plate. I do heat shrinking to straighten. Not included in this thread, but can explain it if anybody's interested. It's NOT heat and beat.

All set. New plate fits well.

Proof that old age sucks. Can't see my lines good anymore. Is what it is. OOOOOOMPH.

Back on track. Gotta love how the Ranger runs. Smooooooooth.

Finished out without any more disasters. Mower's back on the caddy............now at the proper height. Hydraulics next I guess. One step at a time.

 

[rrlund]

View attachment 85222

In the "shop" for modifications. Need to raise the mounting points.

View attachment 85225

Some straightening required before fixturing new plate. I do heat shrinking to straighten. Not included in this thread, but can explain it if anybody's interested. It's NOT heat and beat.

View attachment 85226

All set. New plate fits well.

View attachment 85227

Proof that old age sucks. Can't see my lines good anymore. Is what it is. OOOOOOMPH.

View attachment 85228

Back on track. Gotta love how the Ranger runs. Smooooooooth.

View attachment 85229

View attachment 85230

Finished out without any more disasters. Mower's back on the caddy............now at the proper height. Hydraulics next I guess. One step at a time.

I laughed when I saw that bead curve down. I'm glad I'm not the only one who does that anymore. I've welded some real nice beads two or three inches from the crack.

 

[farmersamm]

Go big or go home

The worst is spending an inordinate amount of the work day looking for stuff you misplaced. Golden Years my butt!!

 

[farmersamm]

First off...........the fittings installed on the valve AREN'T the ones that will be used. They're just there so I can determine what flows where, when the solenoid is activated.

The entire valve will couple to the quick coupler on the tractor. The cylinder line will quick couple to the valve. The only semi permanent line will be the auxiliary line to the reservoir. The flow will be "float" when the valve isn't activated. The lines will be "live" when the valve is activated.

I need to provide something to relieve strain on the valve when coupled. Weld up something I guess. Something the valve can be temporarily bolted to when needed.

Naturally, I picked up mostly the wrong fittings in Tulsa. Always seem to do that. It's better to buy fittings when the valve, or whatever, is mounted.

I'll only need to have one hose made. This hose will have JIC fittings........easier to couple/decouple without damaging seats.

Modified a hay rake, rebuilt a baler, rebuilt front axle pivot on the Oliver.........................thought I was ready to do some hay..... Now all this BS just to get the mower in the field. I thought the mower was ready to go. I guess not.