Installing a post on a starter

MasserD

New User
I purchase a repair kit for a 9N starter. In the kit is a electric post that I need to install. Is there any instructions on removing the old and installing the new post on this site. I have rebuilt starters before but never installed a post. Are there anybody that can help me or where I can go to find instructions. Thank You for any help you have. Thanks Again, MasserD
 
It is a new post that came in the kit.The old one is stripped, and also need new brushes.
Thank You,
MasserD
 
MasserD ,The post needs to be soldered on with silver solider and a acetylene torch.Regular solider may not hold and could melt off. Best would be to take it to a starter rebuild shop and have them silver solider it on for you.
 
The starter post has a slot in it that has the flat field wire soldered in to it.I have changed posts and used a 300 watt iron.Silver solder is an internet lie.
 
Silver solder is used for any electrical connection that could warm up through use to melt lead based solder
 
I have not found a paint or primer that will stick to silver solder. I use it for ac applications but works for steel applicatioins too.
 
Of all the folks here on the N board I would trust to answer to this question it would be 36 Coupe.
Think about it:
If you ever get your post and accompaning windings hot enough to melt ordinary solder your starter is already toast. Silver solder is not neccessary.
On the other hand, if anyone here has worse people skills than 36 Coupe as he imparts his gems and wisdom I haven't met him yet.
 
'UDawg' you are probly more rite than anyone, however(I just love that phrase) silver or High temp solder is / was used for the obvious reasons. It is NOT clear to me that High temp solder is NOT used on starter motors or generators. I need documentation to the contrary. We all know 'Silver Solder' is a myth---B.S.!!
 
Silver solder is very expensive.It would take a lot to solder a field lead to a bolt.Melting point run 1175 to 1600 degrees.1600 degress is a bright cherry red.The more silver the lower the melting point.
 
I suffer no fools.One posted that a starter only drew 10 amps before the drive engaged.WRONG no need to pussyfoot or beat around the bush,if you are wrong you should be told so.One of you first things you should do when testing a starter on the bench is checking free running current drain.65 to 85 amps on Ford starters.Mistakes will be made but when information is wrong its time to say so.
 
There are solders that contain 2 to 4% silver.My friend has some 2% very fine.Muggy weld has some 56% content silver solder that costs 60 bucks for 4 18 inchx 1/16 rods .Good price but still too high for use in starters.Silver bearing solder is not true silver solder.Some silver solder is 80 % silver.I did some refridgeration work for 2 years.We used silver solder on compressor replacement.
 
Tin lead solder melts at 400 degrees and up,depends on the alloy.If the starter field coils get that hot the insulation will fail.Field coil shorts to the starter case are common.On generators that throw solder the armature insulation will have burned spots.
 
I am rebuilding one for my 2N right now and it needed a post as well because the original was stripped. I took it apart and the best I could tell I had no solder, but I intended to solder the new in with regular solder because of the heat needed for silver could damage the windings insulation. Now - that being said, my fathers Farmall A has it hard soldered and I beleive that connection is original - maybe this is where some of the confusion is coming from... other manufactures techniques?? Keith
 
I have used hot carbon soldering.The heat comes up fast with no open flame.I made a hot carbon soldering tool about 50 years ago, used it with a 6 volt battery.I have an AC powered one that can do hot carbon soldering.On a higher tap it does carbon arc welding.
 
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