Insulating a pole building shop.

[Awlknottedup]

I just bought some Ozark property. There is a 32 by 24 pole building with a concrete floor that I want to use as a shop for light mechanical and woodworking.

The construction is 5X5 poles on 8' centers with 2X4 horizontal purlins on 24" centers and metal siding. I want to insulate the building but am not sure how to go about it. The problem as I see it is some sort of vapor barrier between the insulation and tin.

 

[504]

It maybe insulated with bubble foil, works good and cheap. It is nothing but foil backed bubble wrap.

 

[Brad Gyde]

What we did here is cut 1 1/2" "pinkboard" (foam) and put between the purlins.. Then we built stud walls between the posts and used fiberglass insulation.. then covered with OSB board (lasts longer than drywall does in a non-heated building.

On the ceiling, in one building we used pole barn tin, the other OSB, then blown in insulation. I hear the blown in attracts mice, but since doing it, I have seen no more and no less mice than we had before the buildings were insulated.

It's amazing the temperature difference. If we keep doors closed, in the summer it can be up to 20 degrees cooler inside, and in the winter, it has to get close to 15 degrees outside before the shed will show below freezing on the thermometer hanging on the wall inside.

Brad

 

[old]

If you can afford it the best and in the long run the cheapest is the newer spray in foam stuff. They say it will stop leaks and will last your and your sons life time and then some but it does cost a few $$. So then you say the Ozarks which area since that is like the area in Missouri/AR/OK and a few parts of KS

 

[MSD]

Spray in foam is the best and most expensive. That said, depending on the climate, it may well be cheaper in the long run for you. No need for a vapor barrier with it also.

 

[MarkB_MI]

Here's what I did with the walls of my building; it has T1-11 siding but is otherwise similar to yours. I ripped 2x4s into 2x2s, then nailed the 2x2s vertically to the purlins. I then placed R-13 23" fiberglass insulation between the 2x2s. I finished the wall with 7/16 OSB screwed to the 2x2s.

The R-13 insulation is intended for 2x4 (3-1/2") walls, but works fine in a 3" wall. The kraft paper should be on the inside; there should be no need to add a vapor barrier between the tin and the insulation.

I ripped my own 2x2s because the quality of 2x2 lumber is so poor, plus the 2x4s give you a slightly wider board.

 

[circus]

I've seen 8' wide rolls of fiberglass bats at Menards. Vapor barrior gos inside from the insulation.

 

[Jaden]

I am just finishing my shop in a pole building. I put the bubble foil on the purlins. This leaves the 1-1/2" gap between the foil and tin, so no moisture build up to corrode the tin. I then put in 2 x 4 studs horizontally between the posts with joist hangars, and R-19 fiberglass rolls.
For the ceiling, we added supports between the trusses, and then put OSB as interior wall and ceiling. I do not have the attic insulation in yet, but also see the 20 degree cooler results. I attribute some of that to the foil reflective properties. I got mine from Insulation for Less website.
I could find some pic's if you need them.
John

 

[Awlknottedup]

South Central Missouri Just north of the Arkansas line in Ozark County.

 

[Awlknottedup]

I had not thought of the foil bubble wrap, that is a good idea, thanks.

 

[State of Jefferson]

On an existing building I would get the high density foam board and cut it to fit between the posts and then foam any gaps to make it air tight. I would then put OSB on the inside of the foam board and run long washer head screws 16"oc or so through the osb, the foam, and into the purlins to hold everything in place.

Ben

 

[old]

Well is that over close to Branson or is it more over buy West plains. As for you pole barn I know a guy who checked a few years ago about having has quaset hut done and they wanted $6000 to do it but his build in very big

 

[buickanddeere]

Spray on. It's a three way win.
#1 it insulates places you can't effectively reach or cover. #2 the stuff works as a vapour barrier. #3 it stops the airleaks which adds more air conditioning or heating load than heat loss/gain through the walls.
Seal it up tight and you will be shocked how little it will take to heat or cool the place.
Air exchangers are dirt cheap now and provide fresh air.

 

[Awlknottedup]

Closer to West Plains.

My uncle built many Quonset style barns in NE Missouri in the 50s & 60s. That is when I learned to swing a hammer.

 

[bc]

My pole barn with metal roof just sweats to beat the dickens. It runs down and rusts the bottom of the metal until it drips on the purlins and my tools and everything else under it.

Most steel buildings use that 6' wide roll stuff with vapor barrier. They roll it out and then screw the roof sheeting down on it. It really compresses at all the purlins and to me I don't see how they insulate very well. It's only about an inch or so thick. But that is all people seem to do and then heat and cool the building. As expensive as insulation and a whole metal building is, it seems like a good buy to use the spray on. Hard to find a contractor around here though.

 

[Cas]

I just went thru this last fall. We used R19 fiberglass on the walls and 16 inches of cellulose in the ceiling. Cellulose has boric acid in it and actually kills mice if they eat it.
Would have use closed cell foam, but at age 62
I would not live long enough to make it cost effective.
ps Located in Western New York and very happy
with shop which is heated.

 

[rbel]

Just finished mine. installed 2x4 studs at 24" spacing, and r 13 batts. Rocked the ceiling, then blew in cellouse. Chip board on the walls.