International 2444

[tractor junkie 1955]

I recently acquired a international 2444 diesel tractor with a front end loader great running an operating tractor can anyone tell me anything about them

 

[Mrfred54]

Nice little tractor for loader work. I believe their around 45 hp. The 154 diesel is very dependable engine. Transmission could be 8 speed manual shuttle or 4 speed with hi and lo range to give you 8 speeds. Built between 1967- 1971 I think. As with any used tractor, won't hurt to change all fluids and filters

 

[tractor junkie 1955]

I just put new disc brakes on it an something is wrong I have to stand up on my brakes to stop it. I have 2 manuals and neither tells exactly how to adjust the brakes. Hopefully someone on here can shed some light on the subject for me

 

[Mrfred54]

While you had them off, did you remove the small springs that hold the actuator plates together and clean the grooves and balls up good. When its assembled and you pull on the rod the two plates should begin to separate. Should have about 2 inches of free travel on the pedals. Do not put any lubricants on the balls as brake dust will make then hang up. Only adjustments are the 3/8 rods with the ball nut and jam nut. This can be lubed up good and the cup where the ball nut pivots. Is the pin and links that connect to the actuator plates all free with no binding??

 

[tractor junkie 1955]

Ok I adjusted them like on my ford 3000 I used to own .. about 1/2 of free play I will get back under and adjust them like you said..an yes I shined everything up with a wire brush on my drill ..new springs .new actuator balls an new springs on both sides. Thank you so much sir I really appreciate your information..

 

[used red MN]

Should have about 2 inches of free travel on the pedal

To be clear this is when you have a fair amount of pressure on the pedal applying the brake. You don’t want to 2 inches of free play, at least I wouldn’t and wouldn’t recommend that. A half inch of free play might be a bit tight but it is not out of the ball park. I am thinking you have a problem with the case and actuators being worn. The fix is to have the mating surface that sets against the tractor machined down. I will have to search a bit to find the “stacked” spec for the measurement when it is all installed the drum.
Edit to add: The spec given by member Janichoson is .045” to less than .070”. see his reply #3 in this linked YT thread.
YT IH dry disc brake thread

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

I like my 2444 a lot! But.... the brakes on those tractors could stand to be hydraulic. With mine loaded down with a loader, heavy 4 post ROPS & 6' trencher unit.... I'm happy it stops.

Did you notice any glazing when you had the brakes apart?

Mike

 

[Mrfred54]

2 in. free pedal is the standard on all IH tractors with mechanical brakes. If you wish to adjust differently, that's up to the o p. With tight free travel you can actually bend the adjustment rod and after time the rod will break, have seen it happen

 

[used red MN]

2 in. free pedal is the standard on all IH tractors with mechanical brakes. If you wish to adjust differently, that's up to the o p. With tight free travel you can actually bend the adjustment rod and after time the rod will break, have seen it happen

I’ll be the first to admit on our farm we didn’t necessarily maintain our tractors “by the book” We had Farmall 300, 350 and a 656 that utilized these “poor at best” disc brake set ups. I want to say that when we did brake work to them after a bit of a run-in period we would set them so that when the pedal lock (park) was in the second notch it would hold the tractor on most any incline. I am not sure what that would translate to in inches, I want to say about 1 1/2” inches travel at the pedal surface. I could only find a Super C operators manual to access, in it says to set them a 1 1/8” - 1 3/8” measured at the deck stop to the pedal. And it says with light pressure the pedal lock should drop into the first notch. I realize that the Super C is smallest tractor that utilized these dry disc type brakes so there is probably some allowed “scale up” for a larger tractor. By looking at the geometry shown in the Super C manual (see photo) I don’t see how an adjustment setting that allows less travel could be the cause of adjustment rod bending and breakage. However, I do see how failure to maintain and adjust the brakes to the point of excessive slack and mechanism travel could lead to that due to the anchor point on the pedal starting to pull it around the corner so to speak.
I also realize that the pedal geometry on an industrial/utility tractor is a bit different than that of the row crop tractors.

 

[Mrfred54]

I realize some specs are a little different than others. While attending IH schooling in the late 60's and early 70's, instructors would always stress as a rule of thumb, 2 inches free travel on mechanical brakes is sufficient. That is measuring from the top of the pedal where you place your foot, not from that casting that the pedal rests against

 

[Fritz Maurer]

The free play literally has nothing to do the braking action.

Before these brakes can even begin to be made functional, the height of the housing minus the total height of the new discs and actuator must be known. If the difference is too great, the dog-bone links angle will be too great to exert any rotating force on the actuator.

The stack assembly must contact a straight-edge laid across the housing almost immediately after the dog-bones begin to be pulled away from the actuator. This is where the greatest mechanical advantage of the dog-bones is. The greater the angle, the mechanical advantage falls off.... fast. If they have to move 50% of their travel before the discs make contact, you will essentially have no brakes. If new discs doesn't close up the gap, more technical measures must be taken, possibly machining.

 

[INCase]

I recently acquired a international 2444 diesel tractor with a front end loader great running an operating tractor can anyone tell me anything about them

Main "carcass" Built in England and final assembly (tires/wheels/ battery, sheet metal? seat?) put on in Louisville KY)

Gas or diesel? I have a 1969 444 Gas which is the same tractor. pretty handy and easy to drive. one problem on mine is the PTO gear keeps jumping out. it suspect maybe because the lever was broken off and was cobbled up (grandfather in laws not so handy handyman repair) and just clamped back on the shaft. I wonder if it is in the correct position to be fully engaged and is maybe always riding on the edge instead of being fully engaged.

most parts seem to be available (at least the few i've needed).

another item. mine didn't run right when we acquired it from the family. never needed choking and always spit and sputtered. finally got to the point where it wouldn't start warm checked (not replaced) alot of things and turned out it was a very plugged air filter. New air filter and it runs like a top. if yours is diesel this is less of an issue of course

 

[JimB2]

Hi, IH Louisville did alter the brakes on the 2444 some from the original IH Bradford, UK design.
See this link for all about the IH UK, brakes: https://www.anglo-agriparts.com/International-harvester-brakes

One problem that you have when the brake friction disks have been replaced is that the new friction disk are larger in diameter and do not fit inside the worn drums and will ride on the ware ridge and not make proper contact with the friction surface inside the brake drum or the friction surface on the differential case. Solution is to take the brake friction disks and use a grinder to grind the circumference of the disk down to fit inside the ware ridges.

 

[Tim in New York]

I need to replace the discs on my 2424 and found this U Tube video:

. To me the work on the pads does not seem too bad, but I have a feeling at my age it would be a challenge getting the housing off and then back on the splines. I may very well pay someone to do it.

To answer your original question, its been a great tractor for me over almost 40 years of owning it. I have had some repairs done, but between those, 4 new tires, and buying it to begin with, I probably have 6K in it all told. Your may have some wear and tear on it due to having the loader. Good luck!

 

[JimB2]

Good video, I used to ruff up those glazed brake friction disks on my Dad's B414D about once a year. Clean everything up as per video but use a wire wheel on brake disk to remove the glaze on them. His newer 434 with loader tractor had the better brakes like the ones in the video and I only cleaned them up a couple times in the 10 years he owned it and the 434 was used daily to feed silage.

 

[tractor junkie 1955]

Sounds like it's going to be a pain in the back door to get them adjusted right

 

[JimB2]

Not really, they are like a clutch, some free travel about 3/4", then start of engagement.
Since yours is 2444 it should have the later style brakes like in the video and most of the IH Louisville, 2444s that I have seen photos of have the Park Lock mechanism moved to the side of the transmission by your right foot.
Notice in the video, the mechanic used an air grinding wheel to remove the old ware ridges so the new friction disks would contact the braking surface properly.

 

[tractor junkie 1955]

Ok I adjusted on the brakes. Got about 2 in of free travel..it is stopping a lot better now...but something still seems off .. can't put my finger on it just yet but I will keep looking at it an sooner or later I hopefully will figure it out ... guys thank you so very much y'all have been a big help

 

[used red MN]

Ok I adjusted on the brakes. Got about 2 in of free travel..it is stopping a lot better now...but something still seems off .. can't put my finger on it just yet but I will keep looking at it an sooner or later I hopefully will figure it out ... guys thank you so very much y'all have been a big help

Did you disassemble them and address the “narrow edge” contact problem as has been mentioned by several and in the video? Due to the edge of the disc rounding as they wear the metal friction plate takes in the rounding as well. As said when the square edge of of the new disc is installed it only rides on the outer and inner rounded area that is less worn. Less friction surface make the brakes less effective.

 

[tractor junkie 1955]

Ok guys y'all have been very helpful so far..I got another question.i put in new glow plugs ..I installed a good heavy push button switch a new resistor..I ran a hot wire to one side of the switch an from the other side I ran a wire to one side of the resistor .from the other of the resistor I ran a wire to my glow plugs..and the glow plugs are wired in series. I pushed the button and the resistor wire glowed red like it supposed to do..then the wire burnt in to ..a brand new resistor... what did I do wrong. I need help