International Harvestor backhoe.

[ny518]

Hi I believe i have a 1970s international harvester 2504 which is just a guess from what AI suggested. About 6 years ago the backhoe ran and we believe it may be a stuck. The engine may be completely stuck or the fuel pump may be wrong when trying to fix it last. What i want to do before calling someone is to drain the fuel, replace the fuel filter which I believe is on the right side silver cylinder, and clean the fuel injector. I am having a tough time finding the fuel injector. If someone could be helpful and circle in red where I need to start i would appreciate it. And also help me possibly identify the proper year and model.

Thanks
Jeff

 

[SkipperII]

The first thing you need to do, is determine if the engine is stuck or not. If there is a large nut, or bolt, securing the vibration dampener to the front of the crankshaft, you may be able to get a larger wrench, or socket on it, and see if you can rotate the engine. If not you may need to remove the starter and use a large screwdriver, or bar to try to turn the engine with the teeth on the ring gear. Picture 3 clearly show one of the 4 fuel injectors below the fuel filter, and one just a little further ahead. Until you determine that the engine is free, you are wasting your time and energy working on the fuel system. I strongly advise you get a set of manuals.

 

[Mule Meat]

As Skipper said. Wasting your time if you do not check first to see if the engine is locked..

First... Lift Pump. The engine must turn over in order for the lift pump to work. You will never get fuel to the Injection Pump without the lift pump working.

Injectors..

 

[ny518]

Hi guys I will head over to the machine and try to see if I can rotate the engine at the crankshaft. If I get movement do I have to do anything with that lift pump since it was mentioned. I am ordering manuals now as well just needed a little human guidance with experience.

 

[ny518]

So I see the bottom pully and a bar attached to it but not an easy space to put my socket rench on. Looks like the front weights are blocking the opening.

 

[used red MN]

clean the fuel injector.

Hello ny518, welcome to YT! If you are trying to approach this repair by basically asking google/AI “what do I have to do to get this diesel tractor running after it sat 6 years” you or AI has likely misinterpreted an important point. What you have interpreted as the injector is actually the injection pump. It’s the main component attached the the engine slightly off to the right of center in photo 100058. It’s job is to pump diesel fuel under several 1000psi into the fuel injectors that have been pointed out to you. It delivers the fuel at precisely the correct time so the injector releases it into the cylinder in an atomized mist. At that point it is meeting with super heated air in the cylinder from being compressed by the piston coming up. The fuel control mechanisms and pumping devices inside the injection pump run in a bath of diesel fuel. Due to things that take place over time the diesel fuel that was a fine wine 6 years ago turns into skunk pee. Then parts in there that run in very close tolerances seize up and the pump no longer does its job. Luckily there are trained professionals who can disassemble them clean them up install new parts and seals as needed. They also have test equipment so they can calibrate all the this and thats in need of it and return to you a prestine working unit. Such a task usually at the very low ball end is $400. Can this be done by the common man? Maybe, but someone who has to ask what it is and where it is on the engine will very likely turn it into a container of scrap iron parts as opposed to a repaired working unit. (no offense) Once you determine if the engine is free to turn, then you have to find out if fuel is getting pumped into the injection pump. Then the reckoning of whether or not the injection pump is doing what I described its function is above or if it is a dying dog that needs a injection pump veterinarian. There so happens to be such a guy on these forums that does such things he goes by the username Dieseltech, he is in Indiana. Many on here ship pumps to him due to his charges are quite a bit below the average going rate and he does very good work. Good luck!

 

[SkipperII]

You should be able to get a pipe wrench on ithe pump drive shaft.

 

[JimB2]

To me that looks like a BD-154 British Diesel engine, so probably 2444 or earlier model, I noticed glow plugs don't appear to be connected.
So it better be 80*F outside temp or it will require a lot of battery power to spin the starter fast enough and long enough to get it to fire, will be lots of white smoke. That engine has a 22:1 compression ratio, so lots of starter power require to spin it. Can take the glow plugs out to look in the cylinder with a borescope.

 

[NDIHC]

Does the engine crank but not start, or does the engine not crank at all? If it doesn't crank, then determine whether it is capable of being cranked by the methods mentioned above. If the engine is capable of turning but the starter doesn't crank the engine then the starting sysyem needs to be diagnosed. If it cranks but doesn't start then I'd start by making sure it cranks fast enough, if the glow plugs work (i believe someone mentioned it appears they aren't connected), and quantity/quality of fuel.

 

[Powered By IH]

It looks like your best bet of turning that engine over might be to pull the starter out, then use a long angled pry bar and see if it turns.

 

[JimB2]

The tractor has a front mounted hydraulic pump with drive shaft connected to drive shaft pulley so the the crankshaft nut is covered by the hydraulic pump drive shaft coupler, You could try a pipe wrench on the hydraulic pump drive shaft or jack one rear wheel off the ground, put the transmission in 4th gear Hi range and try turning the rear wheel back and forth.

 

[trackrat]

If the pump is stuck turning the engine will destroy the pump, making it a much more expensive repair

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Looks more like a 3414 to me.

That block totally viod of paint suggests an out-of-frame overhaul not all that long ago. Even if it is stuck, would be worth it to dig into it.... might get away with a single sleeve/piston group.... if not just a set of rings for that piston.

Those were really good starters, and if in fact it was overhauled before parked, you won't even need glow plugs until you get down to 40⁰ F

 

[RedMVa]

Looks more like a 3414 to me.

That block totally viod of paint suggests an out-of-frame overhaul not all that long ago. Even if it is stuck, would be worth it to dig into it.... might get away with a single sleeve/piston group.... if not just a set of rings for that piston.

Those were really good starters, and if in fact it was overhauled before parked, you won't even need glow plugs until you get down to 40⁰ F

That block has paint, it’s just covered with oil and dirt. Also in another picture it looked like the block had a rust hole that was weeping

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Seems odd to me that the block can be greasy enough to obscure all the yellow, but the accessories bolted to it are sqeaky clean.

 

[RedMVa]

Seems odd to me that the block can be greasy enough to obscure all the yellow, but the accessories bolted to it are sqeaky clean.

Yeah the right side is clean with a few remnants of paint, front is a grimy mess. Just doesn’t look bare block to me, more like heavy powerwashed. He still has a stuck engine either way. I have a 3444 setting here with a stuck BD, haven’t had the time or inclination to fool with it, pretty sure the valves are stuck, one of these days I may pull the head and check it out.