International sickle mower?

[Jared1986]

I am having trouble identifying a 2 point mower. It is belt driven but gearbox appears to be oil filled. Any info greatly appreciated as I am not familiar with the belt driven mower. [/img:1f21c04528]

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

If it looks like this one:

They have a grease fitting in the gearbox, under the push-in cap on top of it (with the bar down). If there's oil in it, I don't know how it keeps as
the cap is not water tight.

Mike

 

[DanielW]

The picture AMF posted is one of the wobble type, probably model
100/1100/1300 or something of that series. I don't know my later IH
sickle mowers too well to identify it, but it'll be something in that
era.

Because you mention it's a 2-point mower with an oil-filled gearbox,
however, I'm guessing it's one of the earlier pitman type, which have a
belt drive to a gearbox, which is supposed to be oil-filled, but at this
stage in time most have burned up the rear seal and folks have just
packed them with grease. This gearbox drives a pitman, which has the old-
school ball-and-socket connection to the knife.

There were several of these models, all very similar, all very popular,
and all using pretty much the same parts. Look up IH mower models 16, 24,
25V, 27V, C28, and 32 models. It'll likely be one of them. Probably not
the C28, as I think all for those were three point, made in Canada (very
popular up here in Canada - there's one sitting in about every fence-
row). And probably not the 32 either, as I think they were the trail-type
model.

Whatever model it is, wear parts will be readily available, and most will
be interchangeable between any of these models. The only commonly-needed
part that I think changes between them is the pitman - the length is
different for a few of those models. You want to make sure you get the
length right and check your knife register, because if it's the wrong
length or someone's fooled around with the register adjustment, it'll be
out of register and won't cut worth a dang.

 

[Jared1986]

Thank you I will pull the cap off and see if it's a grease fitting under the cap.

 

[300guy]

If you have a pitman arm then it is probably a 25, 27V or one close to those models. I had a 2 point mower with a pitman arm and it was a 27v.

 

[Tony in SD]

Be sure NOT to over grease that fitting below the cap. It takes very little grease. As I recalll over greasing that zero will damage the bushings

 

[Dieseltech]

Sounds like the IH Balanced 100 nine foot bar sickle mower I have. Set the bar vertical and it will trim trees well too.

 

[Texasmark]

I had a used Ford brand, forget the number. First time out after purchase and servicing, I cut a field and was patting myself on the back for a job well done. On the way back to the barn, I was going down a fence row, ringed in trees as was/is normal for unattended fence rows......but for some reason that didn't register in my brain. I had the sickle in the vertical transport position and...........you guessed it...WHACK. Broke something like the main casting, don't remember just what, but rendered the thing useless. Haven't bought one since.

 

[Jared1986]

 

[Jared1986]

I was wrong it is a grease fitting under cap on head. Needing model number so I can order a book! And any advise tips etc much appreciated! Thank you

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

I was wrong it is a grease fitting under cap on head. Needing model number so I can order a book! And any advise tips etc much appreciated! Thank you

It's a model 120, without the hay conditioner hitch & rear PTO. The details make a difference when ordering driveline parts for it (PTO shaft, bearings, etc.). Those mowers are handy as a shirt pocket.

There's a lot of extant info on this site about those mowers. Many refer to the semi-mounts as a 100, which it is essentially (the 100 was either trailing or 3PT). So, read a bit before moving on to another post. The 1100 & 1300 mowers are the same basic machine with a few upgrades. After IH was done with the line, it went to New Idea & then everything was sold off to Rowse in Nebraska. They are still around & making that mower. Great to deal with too. Had a new cutter-bar built up for my 120 & here in a week's time. So, most everything can still be had for your mower.

There are a lot of manual reprints out there. One good source is eBay. The other I use is the CaseIH Document Management Center. They do charge for the old manuals, but usually not to much. They charge per page scanned, so your mower manual shouldn't be too bad. The 900 pp MR-5 parts catalog, on the other hand, is a different story.

Any other info, just ask.

And....

Good luck with your machine!

Mike

 

[Jared1986]

It's a model 120, without the hay conditioner hitch & rear PTO. The details make a difference when ordering driveline parts for it (PTO shaft, bearings, etc.). Those mowers are handy as a shirt pocket.

There's a lot of extant info on this site about those mowers. Many refer to the semi-mounts as a 100, which it is essentially (the 100 was either trailing or 3PT). So, read a bit before moving on to another post. The 1100 & 1300 mowers are the same basic machine with a few upgrades. After IH was done with the line, it went to New Idea & then everything was sold off to Rowse in Nebraska. They are still around & making that mower. Great to deal with too. Had a new cutter-bar built up for my 120 & here in a week's time. So, most everything can still be had for your mower.

There are a lot of manual reprints out there. One good source is eBay. The other I use is the CaseIH Document Management Center. They do charge for the old manuals, but usually not to much. They charge per page scanned, so your mower manual shouldn't be too bad. The 900 pp MR-5 parts catalog, on the other hand, is a different story.

Any other info, just ask.

And....

Good luck with your machine!

Mike

Thank you Mike for the info.

 

[300guy]

The mower is a Model 100. I have on identical to yours and bought the 100 owners manual. The 25, 27 27v and etc. are all pitman drive mowers! I had two of them before I bought the 100. If you need work done on the wobble head, call Rouse Rakes in Burwell,Ne. They are the ones who make this wobble box and for most of the other manufacturers. They can fix the box a lot cheaper than anyone else and it will done to original specs!! I had mine don e but them when bought mine as it was full of water and all the bearings were bad. The crankshaft is over $1000 but the bearings and the replacement are way less than that.