Introducing myself

[Dogsix]

I agree with Andy. It looks like a 1954 NAA. It's definitely not an N series (9N, 2N, 8N). It should have a 134 ci 4 cylinder gas engine. If the engine is original, the raised casting number on the side of the block should be EAE6015.

Thanks I will look

 

[Ultradog MN]

Good morning “Old tractor lovers “ from another “Old tractor lover”! I just aquired my Ford NA. (that’s all I can find on the stamped engine ID plate). I just sold my Ford 1220 of 30 years and am embarking on a new adventure with this one. I bought this because I have a Jeep with the Ford 300 6cyl. And understand that the 2 engines are related. I’m looking forward to getting it running better and using it to mow my 20 acres here in Claremore, Oklahoma. I love to work on old machinery and just finished building my own dream shop(finally at age 72) and look forward to talking tractors with all of you soon. I sent a pic. Can anyone tell me what year this tractor is? Thanks View attachment 144291

One dog to another - Welcome!

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Serial number location

 

[Sean in PA]

On the early NAAs, before Serial number 22,239 the serial numbers were were stamped on the left front
of the engine block just below the head similar to the 8N but farther forward. Starting at serial number 22,239 they were stamped on the boss on the bell housing near the starter but not on top of the flat spot like the later 1955-1964 models. The boss was shaped differently and the number was on the side where it sloped down from the flat spot:

 

[Dogsix]

On the early NAAs, before Serial number 22,239 the serial numbers were were stamped on the left front
of the engine block just below the head similar to the 8N but farther forward. Starting at serial number 22,239 they were stamped on the boss on the bell housing near the starter but not on top of the flat spot like the later 1955-1964 models. The boss was shaped differently and the number was on the side where it sloped down from the flat spot:

Thank you

 

[Dogsix]

Okay y’all. Here’s where I stand with my NAA. I can get her to start and run. She idles and runs full speed but the moment you put any load on her she stumbles. Here’s what I have done as far as troubleshooting over the last week.
1. Checked air breather oil and inspected for mud dobbers.
2. Checked plugs for .025 gap. Ok
3. Spark will jump 1/4” gap.
4. Plug wires are new (previous owner purchased) but are not solid copper wires.
5. Drained fuel tank ( new previous ownrer) and inspected. No debris found in tank or sediment bowl and screen at bowl clean.
6. Removed electric fuel pump and rubber fuel line to the carburetor and replaced with a new copper fuel line after checking for proper fuel flow at the carburetor.
7. Removed carburetor (Chinese knockoff purchased by previous owner) and checked for 1/4” float level-ok. Soaked carb needle valves, needle and seat, passageways in cleaner and blew out with compressed air. All gaskets were good and reinstalled carburetor on tractor. Linkages all good and set correctly (as far as I know).
Have continuous fuel flow from bottom drain on carburetor.
8. Governor linkage is free and seems to work fine. I can see it moving when engine changes speed.
9. I purchased a new ignition coil and installed.
10. Opened and inspected distributor cap and centrifugal advance mechanism. All clean and nice and free movement.
11. I don’t know what else I can do except check the timing but it seems to be running pretty good as long as I don’t try to move it!

Any suggestions?

 

[pomester]

Okay y’all. Here’s where I stand with my NAA. I can get her to start and run. She idles and runs full speed but the moment you put any load on her she stumbles. Here’s what I have done as far as troubleshooting over the last week.
1. Checked air breather oil and inspected for mud dobbers.
2. Checked plugs for .025 gap. Ok
3. Spark will jump 1/4” gap.
4. Plug wires are new (previous owner purchased) but are not solid copper wires.
5. Drained fuel tank ( new previous ownrer) and inspected. No debris found in tank or sediment bowl and screen at bowl clean.
6. Removed electric fuel pump and rubber fuel line to the carburetor and replaced with a new copper fuel line after checking for proper fuel flow at the carburetor.
7. Removed carburetor (Chinese knockoff purchased by previous owner) and checked for 1/4” float level-ok. Soaked carb needle valves, needle and seat, passageways in cleaner and blew out with compressed air. All gaskets were good and reinstalled carburetor on tractor. Linkages all good and set correctly (as far as I know).
Have continuous fuel flow from bottom drain on carburetor.
8. Governor linkage is free and seems to work fine. I can see it moving when engine changes speed.
9. I purchased a new ignition coil and installed.
10. Opened and inspected distributor cap and centrifugal advance mechanism. All clean and nice and free movement.
11. I don’t know what else I can do except check the timing but it seems to be running pretty good as long as I don’t try to move it!

Any suggestions?

It would be a good idea to time it - you'll find a hole underneath the hydraulic pump and timing marks on the flywheel. You may have to clean the flywheel to find the marks. I don't have a manual handy to tell you what the setting should be.

Beyond that 'd be looking at that carburetor - Screw the main adjustment needle gently closed and open 1.5 turns and see how it runs. Open it up another half turn and see if anything changes. Knock-off carburetors are a mixed bag with some reporting good performance and some finding them unsatisfactory. I don't suppose the previous owner provided the original carb with the tractor?

Sounds like you are getting close, keep after it.

 

[Lynn Patrick]

New parts does not necessarily mean good parts! I have to wonder about what plugs you are using. I have had several "new" plugs do just what you relate. I have since gone w/only NGK 3112's, & have had a couple of them not last very long.

 

[Dogsix]

It would be a good idea to time it - you'll find a hole underneath the hydraulic pump and timing marks on the flywheel. You may have to clean the flywheel to find the marks. I don't have a manual handy to tell you what the setting should be.

Beyond that 'd be looking at that carburetor - Screw the main adjustment needle gently closed and open 1.5 turns and see how it runs. Open it up another half turn and see if anything changes. Knock-off carburetors are a mixed bag with some reporting good performance and some finding them unsatisfactory. I don't suppose the previous owner provided the original carb with the tractor?

Sounds like you are getting close, keep after it.

I’m going to try to get her timed next. Thanks for your interest. Previous owner gave me what he said was the old carb and it’s a marvel shebler 355 which I think is for a 8N . So I’m not planning on trying to use it.

 

[Dogsix]

New parts does not necessarily mean good parts! I have to wonder about what plugs you are using. I have had several "new" plugs do just what you relate. I have since gone w/only NGK 3112's, & have had a couple of them not last very long.

That’s one thing that I haven’t done. I’ll try some. I’m sure they have been flooded with gas several times. Thank you.

 

[Whiltshire’s 4000]

Good morning “Old tractor lovers “ from another “Old tractor lover”! I just aquired my Ford NA. (that’s all I can find on the stamped engine ID plate). I just sold my Ford 1220 of 30 years and am embarking on a new adventure with this one. I bought this because I have a Jeep with the Ford 300 6cyl. And understand that the 2 engines are related. I’m looking forward to getting it running better and using it to mow my 20 acres here in Claremore, Oklahoma. I love to work on old machinery and just finished building my own dream shop(finally at age 72) and look forward to talking tractors with all of you soon. I sent a pic. Can anyone tell me what year this tractor is? Thanks View attachment 144291

Shes minty

 

[Dogsix]

Well I’ve been busy with the tractor since getting all the help and suggestions from you guys and thought I should give you an update. I now have it running really good. Starts easy and runs pretty well and has good power. Governor linkage set correctly ( I think). I pulled and re-installed the distributor which was 1 tooth off. I set the points gap. They were barely opening at all. Replaced synthetic plug wires with solid copper ones. Set timing with the flywheel. Pulled the air breather and cleaned all the mud daubers out.
Pulled the cheap carburetor and cleaned it again. She now runs and pull’s strongly everywhere until I try to go up an incline of any steepness at all then she sputters and stumbles and sometimes diesand when I roll back down to level she starts and runs great again. So I turned around and backed up the same incline with no problem! Got to be carburetor so dug out the old carb. The previous owner handed me an started working on it for possible rebuild. Choke shaft seized, grimy and rusty but complete. Took it to the shop and got the choke unsiezed and disassembled and deep cleaned and bead blasted the body and couldn’t find a model number but Antique Tractors went by casting numbers and said it was a Marvel- Shebler 580. So I’m waiting on that for the rebuild. Thanks for your help and sorry I took so long updating you. I will follow up as soon as I get the carb installed.

 

[Jim.ME]

How much fuel in the tank? With the sediment bowl at the front of a tank, going uphill lowers the fuel level over the outlet and can cause starvation Backing up hill will increase the fuel level over the sediment bowl. A low fuel level in a tank has been known to cause the problem you describe. Try filling the tank and see if the problem goes away.

Any debris in the tap of the sediment bowl, above the shut off valve will further restrict fuel flow. Have you cleaned the tank and removed the sediment bowl assembly and check to see if it is clear and open on the tank side of the shutoff valve?

 

[Dogsix]

How much fuel in the tank? With the sediment bowl at the front of a tank, going uphill lowers the fuel level over the outlet and can cause starvation Backing up hill will increase the fuel level over the sediment bowl. A low fuel level in a tank has been known to cause the problem you describe. Try filling the tank and see if the problem goes away.

Any debris in the tap of the sediment bowl, above the shut off valve will further restrict fuel flow. Have you cleaned the tank and removed the sediment bowl assembly and check to see if it is clear and open on the tank side of the shutoff valve?

I have done all that already. The outlet of the tank (which is a new replacement) is at the back end (nearest the driver) and I pulled the sediment bowl and inspected. It was clean and like new.

 

[soaked]

I see your carb has the down pointing main needle like 8ns do. Someone figured out on the 8n forum, that some carbs wont go uphill due to the fuel inlet port not being machined. Wonder if yours missed that cut too.

These are two 8n carbs.
Carb on the left wont go uphill. It's missing the opening down near the bottom exposing the brass inlet seat.

Carb on the right goes uphill just fine. Machining opened up the port to the brass seat, so if tilting the carb, fuel can still enter. Blue line is the fuel level, barely above the needles housing.
Solution is to drill, or cut a port down by the brass seat.

 

[Dogsix]

I see your carb has the down pointing main needle like 8ns do. Someone figured out on the 8n forum, that some carbs wont go uphill due to the fuel inlet port not being machined. Wonder if yours missed that cut too.

These are two 8n carbs.
Carb on the left wont go uphill. It's missing the opening down near the bottom exposing the brass inlet seat.

Carb on the right goes uphill just fine. Machining opened up the port to the brass seat, so if tilting the carb, fuel can still enter. Blue line is the fuel level, barely above the needles housing.
Solution is to drill, or cut a port down by the brass seat.

I don’t think my carb. Is the same as yours is it?? The tube is not as long and it’s a 134CID

 

[soaked]

8N and NAA are not the same, but they are similar.

The fuel inlet im trying to show is at the bottom of the float bowl, inside the carb.
The long drill it sitting on the brass" inlet seat" as I called it. It flows fuel from the bowl into the main jet, then through the nozzle.
Sorry for the confusion...
Edited to clarify

 

[Dogsix]

8N and NAA are not the same, but they are similar.

The fuel inlet im trying to show is at the bottom of the float bowl, inside the carb.
The long drill it sitting on the brass" inlet seat" as I called it. It flows fuel from the bowl into the main jet, then through the nozzle.
Sorry for the confusion...
Edited to clarify

Ok I’m beginning to understand now. Can I drill this by hand drilling or is this a job for a machine shop?

 

[soaked]

Ive not had a carb with the closed un machined port. Others have drilled a hole. It may be that an oscillating cutter could carve its way down.
Suggest first to open the carb up and take a look.
This site has new bowl gasket if needed

 

[soaked]

robertIL used a dremmel---