introduction

[BarkMulcher]

Hey everyone. I am new to tractors entirely, aside from a few projects my dad had when I was a boy.

I bought a small plot of land this year and after hauling the first six felled trees using my hi-lift Jack as a winch, I decided I needed something more substantial to do the work for me.

So I now have a Case 222. Right off the bat it needed both the hydraulic lines to/from the lift cylinder - the elbow was bent and cracked on one, and the rubber had deteriorated on the other. The fella I bought it from said it'd been sitting untouched in a barn for fifteen years. Surprisingly it starts right up - I drove it around the guy's dooryard a few times. How about that.

I assume it'd benefit from a full flush and fill of engine oil and hydraulic oil. I read on another thread that 10W30 is recommended for my climes. What engine oil do you recommend? Anything else I should do or keep an eye out for?

How hard is it to find the hydraulic PTO assembly for these? If I understand the experts here, most of the available implements are driven by hydraulic flow.

Anyway, thanks for reading. Cheers.

 

[J Hamilton]

Welcome to YT. As a Case collector myself, I would recommend Barneveld Implement 608-924-1662 for Case garden tractor parts. And be sure to have your serial number when you call them.

 

[Dave BN]

Welcome, you'll find lots of knowledge here. Read some of the other discussion boards. Tool talk and others are a wealth of information. And yes, I would change all the fluids and filters. Maybe buy a manual on line.
Dave

 

[jon f mn]

You can use most any oil in the engine, but what you have in the hydraulics means only stocking one oil. I do use 15/40 in mine, but I use that in everything on my farm.

 

[Steve@Advance]

As for engine oil, I would use 15w-40 synthetic diesel oil.

Synthetic because it tolerates the wide temperature swings of an air cooled engine, and diesel because it better fits the needs of a non-emission controlled engine with flat tappet lifters.

As for the other oils, stick with what the factory recommends, especially if it's a hydrostat.

 

[John T]

Welcome aboard, nice old Case. Unless the owners manual states otherwise or calls for a specific oil and grade (if so use that) I would use 10 W 30 Full Synthetic maybe Castrol Magnatek or any other quality brand of synthetic.

Jonh T

 

[Doug - Iowa]

Welcome aboard. I had a 222 for many years and put a lot of mowing hours on it. Very reliable but I eventually traded for a larger unit. Wish I had it back in my collection as I don't often see them around much anymore. One unique thing about these tractors is the open center hydraulic drive. Not a typical hydrostat as people might think. The directional control valve powers the hydraulic motor which turns the wheels. Attempts to tap into the hydraulic system for other attachments are not recommended, though I believe Case offered some optional valve bodies that would allow it. Also the motor is backwards compared to a Cub Cadet of the same vintage, so shaft rotation for a front mounted snow blower is opposite direction. Had to find that one out the hard way.

 

[BarkMulcher]

Yes, I had a good long read about the hydraulic drive vs hydrostatic. Very cool. The only tapping into the hydraulics I'd do is the one case offered, that's why I'm keeping my eye out for the valve body thing they offered. If it were possible I'd like to run a wood chipper. But now they I type that out, I can only imagine what I'd have to pay for an antique Case Ingersoll hydraulic powered wood chipper! Ha.

 

[Doug - Iowa]

Some web research indicates you have to change the existing one spool directional control valve out for a two spool direction and auxiliary control valve part number C25967. Doesn't appear to be an add on option. Apparently one passed thru eBay for under $200 but of course the link is gone now. A couple sites dedicated to the 222 series have lots of info.

Another option is to belt drive your chipper off the front where the mower hooks up to the clutch. Either way a chipper of any size takes a lot of HP and you only have 12HP available less the hydraulic and mechanical losses. Probably easier and cheaper to buy a self contained chipper and pull it around with your tractor! Good luck with it.