Sberry

Member
This is based on Massey 135. 2 rears make it 4wd. It's got the Perk in it and will need to get a manual but now looking for timing marks etc. I have a leak on the inj pump and going to explore the linkage this morning. Most of the hyd leaks from a couple loose clamps. Pulled the pans and shoveled them out, was wondering how much switching to 5W will help starts? Has 15/40 now.
Got it degreased enuf to work on, brakes not working for a long time. I see master and line rusted off, any chance the internal stuff not rotted off ?
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I might have shopped for a cheaper one but the center was tight, had a new bypass clam with full rotation I wanted and new tires.
 
I am tempted to paint now but I really want to go to work. I am going to look at inj pump leak and see if a minor problem is linkage or gov.
 
I need to get ser numbers and a real manual but anywhere I can find timing marks/instructions to remove inj pump but I may be able to fix it on the machine too. Haven't got that far, just cleaned 100# of grease so it can be worked on.
 
Ok, am checking the finals, they are old but don't have water. I see some post here says not to use hytrans in the tractor hyd system. I spoke I can round up some Common hyd fluid too but I have some filtered hytrans I could use a.s a run or run/flush to clean this up
 
That look the same as a MF 2200 Treever. 5w40 will help starting in cold temperatures, make sure your battery is good and your battery cables are in good condition, battery cables could be corroded inside and are not expensive to replace. For hydraulic oil I imagine ISO 32 is what is called for but you will be safe to use hydtran fluid in the hydraulic system. I'm not 100% sure on the AD3.152 but with a AD4.236 engines the injection pump can be removed and reinstalled as long as scribed marks on pump and timing case line back when reinstalling. Hopefully Dieseltech will chime in here.
 
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That look the same as a MF 2200 Treever. 5w40 will help starting in cold temperatures, make sure your battery is good and your battery cables are in good condition, battery cables could be corroded inside and are not expensive to replace. For hydraulic oil I imagine ISO 32 is what is called for but you will be safe to use hydtran fluid in the hydraulic system. I'm not 100% sure on the AD3.152 but with a AD4.236 engines the injection pump can be removed and reinstalled as long as scribed marks on pump and timing case line back when reinstalling. Hopefully Dieseltech will chime in here.


Yep, that's a Treever.

And yes, on the AD3.152 the pump can be removed and re-installed as you say. I did my 135 this winter.
 
Alt brg, inj pump leak. Couple more leaks and manage some fluid and half a day or day weld depending on how mucha I wanna do.
 
I didn't remove it but we put 2 new orings on the throttle shaft.
I found noisey bearing and had one. Doesn't need a new alternator but one rattles over that engine needs fixin.
 
Is there somewhere to order new hyd control levers. I ran the clam a minute today and that took a lot of sport out of it
I don't think they weld well to fix the holes,,, seems I tried that?
 
Couple pics while it's in for full juice service and fixing some leaks. I need some hyd control levers and going for a day under the knife in the welding bay.
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They are for hauling logs for furniture so log are not stained during skidding. Jim Sbenshade has one in his museum that has been rebuilt and looks like new.
 
I think that is the name of the company that built this. I believe se3veral outfits used the same parts from Massey. They also built them with Ford stuff.
 
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