Is it worth it?

[rgvnaa]

The old man down the street is selling a 53 jubilee, the sheet metel is in very good condition and is all original, has a couple of leaks around the rear end and the pto. the wireing is shot and needs to be changed, cant start now, and the what i think is the worst part of all is the vane style pump still on the tractor. over all i give it a 6 to be worked on. the man is asking 2000 but said he"ll take 1000 because it doesent start now because of wireing. what yalls thoughts on the chances of revial and the vane style pump in my way, thanks

 

[souNdguy]

I'd give 500 if it won't start. if it will start and run, it would jump to 1500$ if it had no major issues other than the leaks and a pump that may fail later on.

a compromise would be 1000$ if I could take a jumper wire with me and see if it would crank up and run and se eoil pressure and test lift, and tranny..e tc.

soundguy

 

[NoNewParts]

If it has decent tires....
I would take a chance at $1000
Jubilee's sell well if it didn't work out for me

3 Jubilee's at the local auction last week here
all were pretty tired, all ran
they went for $1800-$2200

 

[old]

A lot would depend on what I knew of its history. If you have seen and heard it run in the past and know it is a simple problem like bad wiring yes $1000 would be ok but if you know nothing about it then it is a gamble at best

 

[rgvnaa]

what kinda jumper wire are you refering to, i might wana try start and see if its got any underlying issues.

 

[souNdguy]

at a bare minimum, a set of jumper cables to jump it off with, and supply power to the coil, so a long wire with gator clips to go from coil to good battery hot, and a set of jump cables. ground on jump cables to chassie and ground on good battery. hot on jump cables to hot on good battery, and starter lug.. have gator clip wire hooked from hot on good battery to primary input coil.. make sure trans in neutral, and clutch blocked down, and out of gear..

this will crank her over and start her if she has gas and is in running condition, more or less..

soundguy

 

[rgvnaa]

i drew a pic to try to follow along, is my pic correct or a i missing something, with this set up i will be bypassing the key, and would it try to start when i touch the hot cable to the starter lug, excuse my ignorance i have never jumped a tractor like this before. thanks for the help.

 

[paul]

Depends if it is original 6v positive ground, or been converted to 12v negative ground?

--->Paul

 

[rgvnaa]

well is saw a alternator so im pretty sure its 12v, i belive it was a neg ground set up.

 

[souNdguy]

no excuses and no ignorance, you got it 100%

with that in mind.. trans in neutral, block clutch, push her to / fro to make sure something ain't sticking.. cuz when you hit that hot lug on the starter it will crank over.

if she has fuel and compression, she should start up.

obviously once started, get that hot cable off the starter, but leave the ground and coil wire hooked up.

any issues and just post back

soundguy

 

[rgvnaa]

thanks, going over there this afternood to give it at shot. will post back later

 

[souNdguy]

if you run into issues, post, i try to read the forum on and off, all day.. and there will be others here to help.

soundguy

 

[rgvnaa]

I want to thank soundguy for the help with hot wireing the tractor to see if it starts and for all who had input in the matter. after riging the tractor up with the jumper cables and wire with gator clips for the coil the tractor fired rite up with a bit of starting fluid. I also riged up a make shift gas tank out of a 20oz water bottle strait into the carb-in pipe to keep the tractor running. the tractor was pretty quiet and i didnt notice any smoke from the exhuast. after reving up the gas a bit the hyraulaics sprung to life. my dad tried pushing them down, he said they felt soild, i wounder if a 5ft shredder would make a huge diffrence. Pto spun up just like normal, i didnt get a chance to drive the jub around but it did go foward and reverse a few feet, we were in the garage. brake felt fair. I feel alot better about the buy at a 1000 dollars. still a bit werey about the vane style pump but i think it will work out. gona pick the jub tomorrow and get to tinkering with it.

 

[Chavey]

Be sure to hook the ground jumper to the tractor frame last, --not the positive to the battery or the starter post. The battery could explode if you connect last to it (from sparks), or arching could ruin threads on the starter.
Been there done that. Wish I could see better now!

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Remember you're bypass the safty switch make sure the tractor is in NEUTRAL.
Here is my bypass starter kit with on/off switch and starter buttom and starter relay. I have started many a tractor afield this way.
Note: If it starts it usually will raise the price in the owners mind.

Kirk

 

[NoNewParts]

good deal
a Jub that runs and moves at $1000 is
a good find.
Don't worry about the vane pump,
if it works, it might last for years.
If you are going to keep the tractor, just
keep an eye on e bay and the scrapyards,
and grab any piston pump style hydraulic
lines that pop up.
Then they will be hanging in your shop if
you ever need to switch to the piston pump.

 

[Jim.UT]

Excellent find for $1000. My 850 still has a working vane pump. I have no plans to replace it unless it gives me problems. I've owned the machine since 1999 with no hydraulic problems at all. I do have a piston pump on standby on the shelf.

I once parted out a NAA and got over $1200 for the sheetmetal alone (it was the best looking hood I'd ever seen), so your purchase price for a running tractor is a great deal. Wiring is easy.

 

[36 Coupe]

My 640 with a vane pump would have trouble with loss of lift power in hot weather.In cold weather I could lift a 12 foot 16 inch ash log from the edge of a field.I had put 134 fluid in the transmission and hydraulic system when I bought the tractor.I read in the Ford service manual that 2 oils were recommended for the 640 when it was new 80 and 90 weight oil.I put 2 gallons of 90 wt into the hydraulic system and the loss of lift in hot weather was gone.Ford Motor Co never recommended 134 oil for the old tractors.Many posters said my vane pump was worn out,15 bucks worth of oil fixed the problem.The vane pump has a larger gpm rating than the piston pump.Those who follow the CNH recommedation of 134 in the old tractors are wrong.The 9n has the same ring and pinion as the early Ford trucks that used 140 gear oil in warm weather.My differential has 90 ep oil in it.

 

[36 Coupe]

The vane pump will work fine if you use the 80 or 90 gear oil that Ford used in these old tractors.