Is my block cracked

[FiremanKyle]

Have a 42 9N 12V, Added a thermostat in the summer when I replaced the manifold and one of the studs. I'm in Mid Michigan, plowed slow with last weeks snow, and seen some snow melted neae the garage door (unattached no heat, my fault drivers sit outside). Went in to discover a little bit of antifreeze on the ground and was curious if maybe my pump was failing. Well started the tractor to move it today (to access something in the garage) as it was running, I think I've discovered I might now be dealing with a cracked block. I wiped it first, and think I've discovered a slow seep. Is there any alternatives to fix it, or is it block replacement time?

 

[lha]

Have a 42 9N 12V, Added a thermostat in the summer when I replaced the manifold and one of the studs. I'm in Mid Michigan, plowed slow with last weeks snow, and seen some snow melted neae the garage door (unattached no heat, my fault drivers sit outside). Went in to discover a little bit of antifreeze on the ground and was curious if maybe my pump was failing. Well started the tractor to move it today (to access something in the garage) as it was running, I think I've discovered I might now be dealing with a cracked block. I wiped it first, and think I've discovered a slow seep. Is there any alternatives to fix it, or is it block replacement time?

Looks like a head and/or gasket to me.

 

[used red MN]

Have a 42 9N 12V, Added a thermostat in the summer when I replaced the manifold and one of the studs. I'm in Mid Michigan, plowed slow with last weeks snow, and seen some snow melted neae the garage door (unattached no heat, my fault drivers sit outside). Went in to discover a little bit of antifreeze on the ground and was curious if maybe my pump was failing. Well started the tractor to move it today (to access something in the garage) as it was running, I think I've discovered I might now be dealing with a cracked block. I wiped it first, and think I've discovered a slow seep. Is there any alternatives to fix it, or is it block replacement time?

Yep, looks like a crack! Rough grind the area along the crack about 3/4” wide. Apply JB Weld over the crack about 1/2” wide and at least an 1/16” thick. If it doesn’t do it at least you tried. Getting it welded or replacing the block is probably a more proper and dependable repair.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Have a 42 9N 12V, Added a thermostat in the summer when I replaced the manifold and one of the studs. I'm in Mid Michigan, plowed slow with last weeks snow, and seen some snow melted neae the garage door (unattached no heat, my fault drivers sit outside). Went in to discover a little bit of antifreeze on the ground and was curious if maybe my pump was failing. Well started the tractor to move it today (to access something in the garage) as it was running, I think I've discovered I might now be dealing with a cracked block. I wiped it first, and think I've discovered a slow seep. Is there any alternatives to fix it, or is it block replacement time?

Well, there is a leak but may not be a cracked block so delay doing any grinding or hacking away. Verify your petcocks on drain and radiator aren't dripping the coolant. Get a can of GUNK and scrub head and block as best you can, power wash clean. Start up engine and inspect all over for any leaks. Depending on where and how bad the crack is, can probably be repaired. A full engine rebuild is in order. Get block and head stripped down, take to a good, reliable shop, and have them boiled to further inspect for any cracks. He can assess how to proceed from there. Will recommend and oder any engine rebuild kits if needed so don't go out and buy any til you knw exactly what to get.

Tim Daley (MI)

 

[Hobo,NC]

Have a 42 9N 12V, Added a thermostat in the summer when I replaced the manifold and one of the studs. I'm in Mid Michigan, plowed slow with last weeks snow, and seen some snow melted neae the garage door (unattached no heat, my fault drivers sit outside). Went in to discover a little bit of antifreeze on the ground and was curious if maybe my pump was failing. Well started the tractor to move it today (to access something in the garage) as it was running, I think I've discovered I might now be dealing with a cracked block. I wiped it first, and think I've discovered a slow seep. Is there any alternatives to fix it, or is it block replacement time?

Looks like a crack/fraught to me pour Black pepper in it are go to NAPA they have a sealer in a cube that works well. GM also has a cube type sealer for a Cadillac that was a know leakier from the get go. A local engine builder may have a builders cube that does a good job. I would put a sealer in it and move on with life as long as you keep a eye on it its not a deal killer.

I have a ceramic sealer in the shop that I use as a last resort that has worked when I get in the shop will post the name. When it hits air it seals works good but as I said a last resort.

 

[DN-N-TN]

I agree with Hobo, a good fine powder type sealers , I believe they are called Alumniseal or Copperseal work well on small leaks. They go to the leak when the engine is running and coolant is circulated. I have seen black pepper used many times myself.

 

[boler76]

I have had good luck with the following procedure, after complete draining remove rad hoses, block off one block hose entrance and hook shop vac to the other, cleanout leak groove with grinder only small width start vacuum spray brake cleaner on crack, cleaner should disappear into crack, allow to dry, put heat gun on crack to get it warm, put JB weld on crack with vacuum running, it will suck JB weld into crack, stop vacuum and allow to dry overnight should stop a crack leak

 

[560Dennis]

Not sure how your going to fix it .
Suggest you find both ends of crack and drill holes to stop the progression of the crack as soon as you can.
I like the lock and stitch methods

 

[Hobo,NC]

Looks like a crack/fraught to me pour Black pepper in it are go to NAPA they have a sealer in a cube that works well. GM also has a cube type sealer for a Cadillac that was a know leakier from the get go. A local engine builder may have a builders cube that does a good job. I would put a sealer in it and move on with life as long as you keep a eye on it its not a deal killer.

I have a ceramic sealer in the shop that I use as a last resort that has worked when I get in the shop will post the name. When it hits air it seals works good but as I said a last resort.

I am not pushing it, it did work on several different tractor engine/radiator leaks BTW several bottles were gave to me I added 1/2 bottle on each. It says head gasket sealer I doubt it will seal a blown gasket maybe a compromised gasket but not BLOWN. https://www.ebay.com/itm/265150224879

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Yes you have a crack. 2 ways to go about it.
1. Seal it from the outside with JB weld like suggested above. The vacuum trick that was suggested seems neat never heard of that! This is easiest but I've seen it done to get by. Sealing from the outside would my easy choice to stop the bleeding now regardless what I choose I'm probably doing this even if moving on to step 2 it just buys me some time that crack will probably not stop where it is and gives an indication of the rest of the block. Skip the stop leak type products why dump something like that in a vehicle with a 75 year old radiator? The first product fails so you go buy another mechanic in a bottle and dump it in next pretty soon you have 100 (heck probably 2 or 3 now)dollars in a temporary fix at best. If you look up engine block repair epoxy on a search engine there's a good picture to show kinda how to go about it including some problems more significant than yours. Note the absence of paint from the area.

2. Be on the lookout for a block. So they have a Reman Block at all states for 930 bucks. pair that with a new head for 250 I'm assuming it comes with new liners, even if it doesn't less than 2000 dollars in todays money and you have essentially a new engine that's the good thing about Fords.

3.The question I have for the original poster is the thermostat. Im assuming this has a water pump. It says a thermostat was added. To heat it up? Are you running a heat houser or have other concerns? To cool it off? was it overheating? Why did this occur shortly after installing the thermostat? If it was overheating include a head for sure when you are ordering parts. And also is your problem solved? Don't dump money into this before you have your overheating issue resolved. That might even mean a new radiator or water pump or ??? before dealing with the engine block for real.

 

[HFJ]

understand than any kind of granular sealant will not be kind to your radiator.

my first customer was a radiator shop. i won't repeat the things they said about granular sealants, the Pratts might take exception

 

[Richard G.]

Have a 42 9N 12V, Added a thermostat in the summer when I replaced the manifold and one of the studs. I'm in Mid Michigan, plowed slow with last weeks snow, and seen some snow melted neae the garage door (unattached no heat, my fault drivers sit outside). Went in to discover a little bit of antifreeze on the ground and was curious if maybe my pump was failing. Well started the tractor to move it today (to access something in the garage) as it was running, I think I've discovered I might now be dealing with a cracked block. I wiped it first, and think I've discovered a slow seep. Is there any alternatives to fix it, or is it block replacement time?

My 8N has a crack about the same place.
I repaired it back in the 60's by grinding just a little and putting Liquid Steel that was an epoxy type stuff in the crack.
It is still holding all these years later and the tractor gets used all the time.
Don' grind a deep Vee and get it super clean.
I paid $40 for a 1950 Chevy truck years ago and when we put water in it, it had a crack all the way front to back on the side of the block.
I ground it out just a bit and got it clean and put High temp red silicone in the Vee and it was holding years later when left here.

 

[JMOR]

Have a 42 9N 12V, Added a thermostat in the summer when I replaced the manifold and one of the studs. I'm in Mid Michigan, plowed slow with last weeks snow, and seen some snow melted neae the garage door (unattached no heat, my fault drivers sit outside). Went in to discover a little bit of antifreeze on the ground and was curious if maybe my pump was failing. Well started the tractor to move it today (to access something in the garage) as it was running, I think I've discovered I might now be dealing with a cracked block. I wiped it first, and think I've discovered a slow seep. Is there any alternatives to fix it, or is it block replacement time?

I have had better luck with this stuff in tractors, combine, truck, than anybody has a right to have.

 

[lha]

Looks like a head and/or gasket to me.

I looked at the picture incorrectly[old] and now think as others have that it's a cracked block. The grind and JB weld is a good thing,and will probably work. I would try to blast all of the oil out from the crack with brake cleaner or carb cleaner first.

 

[lha]

understand than any kind of granular sealant will not be kind to your radiator.

my first customer was a radiator shop. i won't repeat the things they said about granular sealants, the Pratts might take exception

When I split my 9n,I had it on an engine stand and noticed "gunk" in the water jackets and had to powerwash a completely blocked engine. It was full of a slimy,congealed mass that,believe it or not, still cooled the engine. The radiator had been removed and sealed by me 20 years prior.

 

[showcrop]

I looked at the picture incorrectly[old] and now think as others have that it's a cracked block. The grind and JB weld is a good thing,and will probably work. I would try to blast all of the oil out from the crack with brake cleaner or carb cleaner first.

Hey don't go blaming it on your age! You will be discrediting the rest of us!!