It Started, and it stopped

[Leeworthy]

Well, after putting in a new Carb Kit, new coil, new battery, new ignition, and new plugs, the tractor still wont stay going. It was idling fine for about a minute then it would die out unless I choked it for a second. I dont understand.

Would a leak in the manifold cause this problem?

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 14:02:29 08/29/08) Well, after putting in a new Carb Kit, new coil, new battery, new ignition, and new plugs, the tractor still wont stay going. It was idling fine for about a minute then it would die out unless I choked it for a second. I dont understand.

Would a leak in the manifold cause this problem?

Way too many of these topics for me to try to search it out, so I will just ask you.

Did you not say somewhere something about you used silicone (RTV) to make the manifold gasket?

Was that in addition to the real gaskets for that purpose, or just silicone (RTV)?

Using the copper stuff, in addition to the real gaskets might be alright, but I would not even try it with just the silicone (RTV).

 

[Bruce (VA)]

It is important for you to tell us if your tractor has a 6 volt or 12 volt electrical system & if the distributor is on the front of the engine or on the side. The troubleshooting is different based upon the configuration of your engine.

Are you sure you're not trying to rebuild the engine one part at a time?!

Pulling out the choke gives you a richer mixture. So, you could have either a fuel or spark problem.

Next time it does this, check quickly for spark then fuel. Get an old plug, open the gap to 3/16, ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the head, turn the key on & crank the engine. You have three possibilities: no spark, weak and/or intermittent yellow spark, or a bright blue spark. What is it? Next, check for fuel. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb.

Yes, a vacuum leak can do the same thing. Get a hand propane torch and carefully spray it (unlit of course) around the intake manifold of the tractor while it is running. Or, you can use carb cleaner or WD40. If it speeds up, you found the leak.

As a good rule of thumb, a 1 - 2 minute run times is usually the condenser, ballast resistor, or vacuum lock....or, failure to turn the gas on. A 5 minute run time is usually fuel screens. A 15 minute run time is usually the ignition switch. A one hour run time & then restarts after it cools down is usually the coil.

Bottom line: by far, most "needs choke to run" problems are fuel related, but do not rule out ignition problems. Just check the likely fuel problems first.

Please be sure to post back & let us know what the fix was. We all learn something if you tell us what worked!
50 Tips

 

[Leeworthy]

Bruce, this has been an on going issue, and 5 posts down the road. Was told to check Ignition, changed ignition no change. Have checked spark, and its good. Checked fuel its good My tractor is 12 V, front mount Disttributor. Changed coil, changed plugs to AL 437's, completely rebuilt the carb including gaskets.

Yes the manifold ONLY has the copper RTV gasket stuff on it, as the original manifold gasket was completely gone.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

I've never used the RTV stuff, so I can't help w/ that, but I would check for a vacuum leak.

When it stops running, it is not getting spark or fuel. I doubt that a vacuum leak is going to show up a minute after it starts.

What's the ammeter doing when it stops running & you try to restart it?

Stand by w/ some starting fluid next time.
50 Tips

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 14:26:29 08/29/08)
Bruce, this has been an on going issue, and 5 posts down the road. Was told to check Ignition, changed ignition no change. Have checked spark, and its good. Checked fuel its good My tractor is 12 V, front mount Disttributor. Changed coil, changed plugs to AL 437's, completely rebuilt the carb including gaskets.

Yes the manifold ONLY has the copper RTV gasket stuff on it, as the original manifold gasket was completely gone.

Exhaust Manifold Gasket - SINGLE gasket (TWO gaskets required) for exhaust manifold on 9N, 2N, 8N. (Part No: 9N9448) $3.00

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/store/...&md=8N&cat=Engine Gaskets&r=mcats

 

[Leeworthy]

What am I to do with the starting fluid? or carb cleaner or w/e... I still don't understand how it could be spark or fuel. It runs then it doesnt. And then it will start RIGHT after it dies if I let it.. I Just dont understand. If I open the choke it lets more air into the mixture correct?

 

[Britcheflee]

I had a similar problem with mine in that it would not run well until I pulled out the choke (didnt stop though) I ended up having to pull the carb a couple of times, put in a new kit (very simple) and clean, clean, clean that thing out making sure you have every nook and cranny blown out good. There might be a bit of crud in there floating about and getting stuck now and then in one of the jets...maybe by pulling the choke you are 'cheating' the system and making it go that way rather than the way it should. It sure is frustrating when there isnt an obvious problem to fix.
Lee

 

[Leeworthy]

yeah, I removed carb 4 times now. Let soak the other day for 24 hours, blew out every single nook with fluid, yes I found them all, then blew them out with air, put in a brand new carb kit, and put back together with new gaskets and back onto the tractor.

 

[old]

I would almost bet with the gasket gone that you have found the problem area. RTV works for some stuff but not where things get real hot like an manifold gasket. Do you own a propane torch?? If you do and you can keep it running for more then a minute take it, turn it on but DO NOT light it. Wave it across the manifold area and if the engine starts to run better you found the problem it being a vacuum leak

 

[souNdguy]

Sounds like fuel to me... but to check.. pull a plug as soon as she stops and see if ya got spark... again.. my guess for a stop like that a minute into it is fuel starvation.. especially if choke helps.....

soundguy

 

[Leeworthy]

Well, I think i MAY have found a problem.. I had spark when it shut of, no leak as a propane torch didnt make a diff around the manifold. As soon as it stopped, I checked spark, it was good. I then opened up the carb drain and it just trickled out. I pulled off the fuel filter it just trickled from there. removed the filter and it pours nice and steady. Has to be my fuel filter. Now, I need to find one local!

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 14:53:03 08/29/08)
Well, I think i MAY have found a problem.. I had spark when it shut of, no leak as a propane torch didnt make a diff around the manifold. As soon as it stopped, I checked spark, it was good. I then opened up the carb drain and it just trickled out. I pulled off the fuel filter it just trickled from there. removed the filter and it pours nice and steady. Has to be my fuel filter. Now, I need to find one local!

 

[old]

Are you saying you have an in line fuel filter on it??? If you are then yes that is probably 75% plus of your problem. When new these tractors had 3 filters in them. One in the tank, one in the sediment bowl and one in the elbow on the carb. In line filters or most of them are made for fuel system that have 7-75 PSI to push fuel out of them but your gravity flow system is lucky with a full tank to have 1/-2 PSI so the in lines do not work well. I have been payed many times to remove them from tractors. Going rate is a case of beer and believe me I have drank a good number of beers for fixing that problem

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Like Old sez, if you have an in-line filter, chances are that's been your problem all along. When you go to look for one, make sure it is for a lawn mower w/ a gravity feed. It might work for a while, but sooner or later, you need to fix the problem: a rusty gas tank. Once you get that fixed, replace the cut-up fuel line & it will last another 50+ years.

If I ever re-do the 50 Tips, I think # 51 will be: "Fix the problem not the symptom: do not install an in-line fuel filter, or get rid of it if you have one. Clean or replace the gas tank!"
50 Tips

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 15:53:03 08/29/08)
Well, I think i MAY have found a problem.. I had spark when it shut of, no leak as a propane torch didnt make a diff around the manifold. As soon as it stopped, I checked spark, it was good. I then opened up the carb drain and it just trickled out. I pulled off the fuel filter it just trickled from there. removed the filter and it pours nice and steady. Has to be my fuel filter. Now, I need to find one local!

I will make a wager that before you get the rust off the plow, you have to put a real manifold gasket on it. Probably in the field.

I have been wrong before.....

 

[Leeworthy]

Tractor is running. It has been running for 2 min straight now. I will keep you posted and let you know the status. I found a filter for a 61 ford at Canadian Tire.. Fit perfect...

 

[Leeworthy]

I think were good. Tractor ran for 10 min, didnt quit.. I drove it around the yard for a few min. And it didnt die out on me.. Thanks very much everyone who gave me the tips to get this thing fixed up.

Ill let you know by tomorrow if its 100%!

 

[Leeworthy]

(quoted from post at 21:28:38 08/29/08)

(quoted from post at 15:53:03 08/29/08)
Well, I think i MAY have found a problem.. I had spark when it shut of, no leak as a propane torch didnt make a diff around the manifold. As soon as it stopped, I checked spark, it was good. I then opened up the carb drain and it just trickled out. I pulled off the fuel filter it just trickled from there. removed the filter and it pours nice and steady. Has to be my fuel filter. Now, I need to find one local!

I will make a wager that before you get the rust off the plow, you have to put a real manifold gasket on it. Probably in the field.

I have been wrong before.....

Rust? What rust??? lol

 

[old]

Its sort of funny Bruce how many cases of beer I have been payed just to throw an in line filter in the back of my truck and hook up a line with out one and have a good running tractor