It's stumped me ! (again)

[Christos]

Hey everyone,
I went and picked up my gas tank for the 135 from the radiator shop and it surprised both me and the owner as to how nice and clean it came out.

I now have fuel to the carb but again, the problem that seems to confound me is the electrics. I got a new battery as the old one was bad hooked everything up. The lights will come on but it won"t turn over.

I know the starter/solenoid is good I had them rebuilt three years ago and I replaced all the electrical components except for the dash wiring when the 135 was rebuilt a few years ago.

I guess I"m curious - could the ignition switch have gone bad? I can turn on the lights to the tractor so I know its getting juice but I"m stumped why it won"t turn over.

When the tractor first came home from the shop I"d have the jiggle the wires by the ignition switch a little the tractor would make a sound and I"d be able to start it. I replaced the switch (its the one on there now) and I had to do the same thing.
Then the tractor stopped working (eg wouldn"t start) and I replaced the harness and I got it to turn over but not fire(hence why I had the fuel tank cleaned).

Now I can"t it to turn over - what should I do in terms of diagonistics - the easiest way would be for me to replace harness and switch but I"d rather solve the root of the problem as I"ve got grass to mow.

They also found a tumor (non cancerous) below my spinal cord I"m supposed to have surgery at some point this summer so if you all could say a prayer for everything to go well I"d appreciate it.

Christos

 

[paul]

There are so many little things - any ground or connection spot could be hanging you up. New components do come bad in the box, have had condensers & coils that were brand new & worthless. Same with the switch.

A good voltmeter tester thingy could help you track some things down; but often they only fail under heavy smp draw, but will test ok with a light milliamp load from the tester....

If you know what you are doing a jumper cable to go around many of the connections can help a person locate a bad connection/ switch, BUT you need to KNOW the machine is in nuetral & the like, as you will be standing in fronmt of a wheel for most of that sort of thing.... Safety first.

--->Paul

 

[Sid]

Did you make sure the battery is fully charged?

 

[greygoat]

I got a brand new solinoid from a guy selling
generic parts, at a tent, at an antique tractor
show. It had no name, or country of origin. It
worked once. second try it started to smoke.
A valuable lesson was learned!
Years ago you could TRUST Gamble stores, or Coast
to Coast, or Western Auto, for good stuff, at a
fair price. Now GREED has taken over. I mourn
for my country!

 

[Anonymous-0]

The right shift lever (hi/lo) has to be in neutral and the interlock switch it operates has to work as well as the wires to it. I have to tug on the wire from that switch to the starter solenoid this year to get my 135 to crank.

I have replaced the ignition switch once and I don't think what I took out was original.

Gerald J.