JD 1020 distributor identification

[jimmyO]

Hi;
I have a 1020 that became hard to start, and now won't start at all. The fuel seems OK--if anything there is too much. Presently it won't even fire.
The timing light shows #1 firing pretty regularly, #3 hardly at all. #1 spark plug is dry.
I suspect the ignition system, although my engine troubleshooting skills have diminished since I sold my '64 Nova.

I am considering an electronic ignition system, but this is a second or third hand tractor, with a rebuilt engine, and I can't find markings on the distributor. I am supposed to find that to order the kit.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to identify the distributor? A photo is attached, but probably is not any help

Thanks,
JimO

 

[Jim.ME]

It should be a Prestolite according to the parts catalog, it looks like one. One of the clip screws originally held a tag with the distributor ID. Take the cap and dust cover off and get a picture of the points and condenser.

 

[jimmyO]

I got a photo of the points assembly. They look just like my old Nova! The points themselves look pretty good, and it hasn't been run lots of hours since the engine was replaced. It would be nice if my problem was just the capacitor/condenser. Right now, I'm thinking my best approach is to get it running again, and THEN consider the electronic ignition. That'll keep it once problem at a time. Maybe...

 

[Jim.ME]

I got a photo of the points assembly. They look just like my old Nova! The points themselves look pretty good, and it hasn't been run lots of hours since the engine was replaced. It would be nice if my problem was just the capacitor/condenser. Right now, I'm thinking my best approach is to get it running again, and THEN consider the electronic ignition. That'll keep it once problem at a time. Maybe...

Prestolite distributor IBT-4301 B, C, or D.

They are not the same points as your Nova used, they are shaped a bit different.

The points are John Deere #AT21062 (Standard Motor Products AL5486P). The condenser is JD # AT14684 (Standard Motor Products # AL118, has strap and sleeve like the one in your picture, or AL111 which has a regular wire lead instead of the strap). there is a small thin insulating piece under that S clip where everything connects. If that has broken down things can ground out right, there. That insulator was NLA from what I found. McDonald Carb and Ignition has a replacement that is different and the S clip goes away. They fit and work fine; I have installed several.

Edited to correct spelling.

 

[jimmyO]

Thanks for your reply with all that information! It will probably save me from some severe headaches.
I'll look into McDonald on Monday.
Jim

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks for your reply with all that information! It will probably save me from some severe headaches.
I'll look into McDonald on Monday.
Jim

Check your insulator, it might be ok. I just wanted to let you know to look at it as a possible problem if you don't have spark. Just a BTDT.

 

[RobCons]

Check your insulator, it might be ok. I just wanted to let you know to look at it as a possible problem if you don't have spark. Just a BTDT.

Having been to that party I can testify the insulator needs to be right.

 

[rrlund]

Have you tried changing the cap? The spark could be jumping. You'll need to reuse that same cap even if you change to EI. I'd hate to see you change it over and find out there's no change.

 

[jimmyO]

Have you tried changing the cap? The spark could be jumping. You'll need to reuse that same cap even if you change to EI. I'd hate to see you change it over and find out there's no change.

I'm going to change the points first, based on the insulator question.
SO, are the points a standard item available in auto parts stores, or only from tractor type places?
Thanks,
Jim

 

[rrlund]

I'm going to change the points first, based on the insulator question.
SO, are the points a standard item available in auto parts stores, or only from tractor type places?
Thanks,
Jim

Points should be available at an auto parts store. The 3 cylinder cap might be a different story. If you have good spark at one plug and not at another, I don't think points will help. I think you have spark jumping inside the cap and only firing intermittently on the other cylinders. I put several new caps on my 1020 over the years that I had it. I'll be surprised if that's not your problem.

 

[Jim.ME]

I'm going to change the points first, based on the insulator question.
SO, are the points a standard item available in auto parts stores, or only from tractor type places?
Thanks,
Jim

In post # 4, I gave you the John Deere part number and the SMP (Standard Motor Products) parts number either of which any parts store should be able to cross reference to the brand they carry. They may even carry the SMP ones, my local parts store stocks them. SMP is the maker of the Blue Streak line. What is in stock at a given store varies but usually they can have them within a day or so from a warehouse.

And if you need a cap, it is JD # AT21717 or SMP # AL489. The rotr is JD # AT14680 or SMP # AL167.

 

[jimmyO]

Sir, you are a wealth of information. Which is especially good for me, since the tractor is stalled right in front of the garage door and I can't get the car out! Fortunately, I have another vehicle which I fortunately was unable to sell a while ago.
Many thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.

BTW, I measured the resistance across the points. 0 when closed, and I think about 13 ohms open; I didn't write it down. So I think the points are good.
Jim

 

[jimmyO]

Hi;
Well, I admit I was skeptical about the distributor cap. The old one looked fine. Put the new one on and it started right away and ran better than it has for a while. Thanks for the information!!!
Of course, just to keep the universe in balance, my International 666 won't start. Back to the work bench.
Thanks,
Jim

 

[rrlund]

Glad it worked. I've had it happen several times. It'll drive you nuts until you remember that it's probably a cap again.