jd 1020 gas tractor quit

[chancer]

hi guys so my tractor was running fine then just stopped running like i shut it off. so i had points and condenser and am working on changing them but when connecting condenser wire to retaining clip i notices a insulator piece was crumbled so now not sure its function but i think it kept point and condener connection from grounding on plate and wonder if i can use electrcal tape on conecting fork to insulate them from grounding

 

[chancer]

 

[chancer]

found this in an old manual but not sure how wires are attached and are points and condenser are supposed to be insulated from breaker plate

This post was edited by chancer on 12/01/2023 at 07:06 am.

 

[Blue Jay]

Yep sure are, don't think tape will last.

 

[wore out]

You need a Prestolite 902067 clip and insulator kit.

They are getting hard to find.

McDonald has reproductions.

https://www.mcdonaldcarb.com/product_p/pl90-2067.htm

 

[M-MAN]

Points are screwed to the breaker plate.
The insulator is to keep the wiring stud
ungrounded. One side of the points is
grounded and the other connects to the
insulated stud along with the condenser.
You'll have to buy a new insulator.

 

[chancer]

any pics of the wires connected to the clip would be very appreciated

 

[chancer]

This post was edited by chancer on 12/01/2023 at 08:49 am.

 

[used red MN]

After the ..insulator.. was shown to you are you all
squared up on this? The tape will not work because it
is not able to take the clamping force needed to make
a proper connection without being pierced and
allowing the connection to ground out. Also the
insulator is made in such a way that it centers the
terminal between the prongs pointing up from the base
plate and insulates them from it as well. Bottom line is
you have to order it and wait for it. From JD to get that
piece it looks like you buy AT21719 which is the whole
base plate with the points and all mounted on it. Have
to call for a price but if it is under $50 - $75 bucks I
would be surprised. Here is a link to a post on the web
showing the points installed. The photo does not show
much detail at the connection area where you are
questioning the correct method of assembly.
Points installed

 

[wore out]

''From JD to get that piece it looks like you buy AT21719 which is the whole base plate with the points and all mounted on it.''

I don't know if it was ever different, but nowadays buying part #AT21719 gets you just a points and condenser set.

 

[chancer]

pk found a place got clip ordered decided to check a few things so hooked test light to neg bat term and to coil pos got light when turned key on so i think ign switch works' the took primary wire from dist and held near eng and got no spark but not sure if it matters the points arent hooked up but i would think the coil wouldnt care at this point in the system and should produce a spark. am i thinking correctly on this

 

[chancer]

jd parts guy near me cant get the clip had to get it from the place you kind folks provided me with sure nice to have your help

 

[Jim.ME]

Sorry, you're thinking is wrong as far as the coil not caring if the points are hooked up. The points opening and closing makes and breaks the current flow through the coil to produce a spark from the coil. The points have to be correctly hooked up and working to make the coil produce a spark, unless you physically break the current going through the coil by some other method. For more detailed info you can research Kettering ignition system.

McDonald may or may not have the OEM type clip and insulator in stock at times. Once when I needed one the OEM type (insulator and clip) was not available. They offer a substitute type as well. I got one and it worked fine, I have used a couple of them now. I like it better than the OEM type. Here is a picture of the substitute one.

 

[used red MN]

You said.. I would think the coil wouldnt care at this
point in the system and should produce a spark..
Oh grasshopper, Seek NOT to know the answers, but
to understand the questions.
The ignition coil works on the principle of a magnetic
field that builds in the primary coil windings and when
interrupted charges into the secondary coil windings
creating the spark. The primary winding are connected
to the two small terminals that the ignition power lead
and the wire from the distributor connect to. The wire
to the distributor has to ground to the chassis or
engine so the circuit can have a complete path back to
the negative battery terminal. This happens when the
points are working correctly and the two contact
points meet when the points close. When that is
happening the magnetic field is building in the primary
winding which is an electromagnet. Most importantly
when the point open or the circuit is interrupted the
magnetic field collapses. Since the primary and
secondary windings are placed physically close to
each other the collapsing field induces a high current
into the secondary winding creating the spark. So
whatever you have going on with your primary lead
from the distributor if it is just blowing in the wind no
spark can occur. If you momentarily touch it to the
something when the coil has power that will ground it
and complete the circuit. Then when it is removed if all
is right with the world you will get a spark out of the
coil high tension lead you pulled out of the distributor
cap. Hope this helps. To learn more if this link is
allowed you will get some information that better
explains all of this. It is from the red tractor camp but
the ignitions all work the same.
Edit: By some chance you are viewing in Classic View you will have to click the box in the upper right of the replies that says Modern View to see my linked info.
Something helpful


This post was edited by used red MN on 12/01/2023 at 02:42 pm.

 

[chancer]

now i think i need a coil i dont see a number on the distributer to march with a coil

 

[chancer]

well thank you sir for the explanation of the system i will start with points and condenser get it wired right but am i correct in assuming the ignition switch is good due to the fact the coil gets power when the key is turned on and how can i be sure this is a prestolite distributor so i can order cap rotor and coil and i do appreciate your patience we all gotta learn

 

[chancer]

(reply to post at 16:50:30 12/01/23) https://www.mmtractorparts.com/john-deere-1020-1520-3-cyl-tractor-distributor-tune-up-kit-hot-12v-coil.html

is this the right kit

 

[chancer]

[/img:156ab8b014]

 

[Jim.ME]

Prestolite distributors generally had a small tag under one of the distributor cap clip/screws. They may have the Prestolite and or John Deere part number for the distributor stamped into it. After all these years it may or may not be there, you will have to look.

To my knowledge the insulator on the breaker plate fork, under the metal clip was a Prestolite design.

I would not buy the kit, or anything else until I got the insulator issue fixed, things hooked up correctly so as to try it. If that little insulator failed, that is all it would take to stop the engine from running. You originally posted: ''my tractor was running fine then just stopped running like i shut it off''. Not everything in that kit went bad at once. And you posted you have points and condenser. Replace the insulator and try to get it going with what you have, without buying and throwing parts at it.

 

[used red MN]

(quoted from post at 06:21:15 12/02/23) now i think i need a coil i dont see a number on the distributer to march with a coil

Why is that? No spark from the coil when you power the coil and intermittently ground the negative primary terminal, in other words the terminal the distributor connects to? What does a test light do on the power terminal of the coil with the ignition on and the negative side of the coil grounded? Does it all but go out? If so there may be a problem with your switch or the feed from the switch to your coil. Might be tough to understand but your tractor uses a 6 volt coil. However, there is resistance built into to length of wire from the switch to the coil to reduce voltage to the coil while the tractor is running. It is designed this way to allow another circuit from the stater to feed the coil 12 volts during starter operation to provide a hotter spark for starting.