JD 1020 Timing help needed

Hi folks. I'm new to this group. Hope you can me. My old JD 1020 broke the shaft in the injection pump. (I think I know why).. I've read posts here from many years ago about removing the timing pin and rotating the flywheel until the pin goes in a hole. I've rolled the engine over at least 2 times and, there are 3 locations where the pin drops in but, they're not holes as I would imagine but more like "voids" that allow the flywheel to turn a good distance (an inch or more) before binding on the pin. I finally found an S on the front balancer pulley and it does seem to correspond with a slot in the flywheel, I later read that S is a timing mark for 2100 removing or so.
Soo..in confirming my suspicion about the pump, I removed the 2 nuts holding it to the case and it pulled off leaving the shaft in the gear and the sacrificial piece came off with the pump. At this point, I can reinstall the pump to maintain gear mesh etc and rotate the engine to proper TDC and then remove it and get that broken shaft out. I would greatly appreciate any help. Guitar players are not the best tractor mechanics...lol
Thanks much!
 
Guitar player/part-time tractor mechanic here too. I also just rebuilt a 1020.

The hole in the flywheel for the timing pin is just a divot - a hole that only goes partially through. Assuming you're having trouble finding it, if you have a D-style Roosa Master pump, you remove the two screws on the side window of the pump and watch for the two marks to line up as you rotate the engine. When they line up, look at the flywheel through the hole for the timing pin see if you can find the divot (it may be packed with grease/oil/dust and not be obvious). If you can't find it, rotate the engine another revolution until the marks line up again and look for the divot in the flywheel. It has to be at one of these two points.

If you have a C-style Roosa Master (which mine originally had) it has a different timing method which I can't recall, but I believe it had a pin that drops into a hole when the pin in the flywheel drops into its divot.

I'm not sure what's broken on yours, but if it's a D pump, I think you're going to have to remove the front timing cover to get the shaft and drive gear out.
 
Thanks very much for the reply! I did actually feel a divot at on pint while turning the flywheel bit assumed I was looking for a hole. (Guitar player logic) :-) I'll bolt the old pump back up with the broken shaft attached to keep the gear aligned and try to find the divot in the flywheel. Then I should be able to follow your other instruction and align the marks in the pump itself. Otherwise I could technically install the pump shaft 180 degrees off.
I appreciate your help very much. Ps I'm still partial to Telecasters over injector pumps. :-)
 
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I'll suggest to remove engine valve cover & when both #1 intake /exhaust valves are closed with timing pin in divot on flywheel then engine should be ready to install inj pump.
 
(quoted from post at 05:17:42 11/20/21) .

I'll suggest to remove engine valve cover & when both #1 intake /exhaust valves are closed with timing pin in divot on flywheel then engine should be ready to install inj pump.
Thank you Jim. Would it be correct to say that, if I follow your suggestion I will also need to remove the timing plate cover on the pump to ensure this marks are aligned since I could have the shaft 180 off in the pump even though the keyed slot is aligned with the drive gear?
Thanks all!
Ps pump was locked down and sbaft in to parts. Looks like the going rate is between 1200 and $1500 for a pump.
 
(quoted from post at 11:03:07 11/24/21)
Yes remove timing window on IP so timing marks can be viewed.
Update: I sent the pump to BK diesel service in Iowa. They say the pump can be rebuilt but, they can't find a replacement shaft. I haven't found one either.
We'll see how it all turns out. Thanks all for your help.
 
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