JD 1500 power seeder

[Perdido$]

I purchased a JD 1500 power seeder for planting small food plots and it’s in pretty good shape. The only things that need replacing are the cutting discs and they are not available along with a host of other parts. I set up a CAD file to duplicate the discs out of mild steel and sent it to send cut send where I’ve had previous parts made and was pleasantly surprised with a price of $30 each and down to $19 each in larger quantities.

 

[DanielW]

I've had cutter discs for an old drill cut on a plasma table as well. For small food plots, the mild steel will do fine. But you might ask if they can burn them out of AR. Burning AR is just as easy for them to cut on the table, and a good AR plate will last waaay longer. AR plate in the 400-500 Brinell range is pretty common these days - most shops with plasma/laser tables have some. And it should only cost a little more, because 80% of the costs for any plasma/laser-cut parts are in the setup and handling. The cost for steel itself (regardless of what type of steel it is) should be comparably minimal.

 

[Tx Jim]

Many yrs ago I used a JD 1500 to seed a lot of acres. It will shock me if mild steel cutting disks will last very many acres of use.

 

[Perdido$]

AR is more than twice as much and we only plant about 15 acres once a year in river bottom. No sand or rocks in the soil around here.
Thanks

 

[DanielW]

AR is more than twice as much and we only plant about 15 acres once a year in river bottom. No sand or rocks in the soil around here.
Thanks

Fair enough. But even 15 acres might wear out after a couple years, but not going to hurt anything to try them and see how they do. Just checked the price here of AR 450 plate at (I checked 3/16" for reference). AR450 is indeed over twice the price, but we're still talking less than ten bucks per square foot for AR. I doubt those discs are larger than about 12" diameter, so the steel cost itself should only be a small a fraction of the final sale price. It's the setup, invoicing, handling, cleaning, and power consumption of the table that make up most of the price.

 

[Perdido$]

Fair enough. But even 15 acres might wear out after a couple years, but not going to hurt anything to try them and see how they do. Just checked the price here of AR 450 plate at (I checked 3/16" for reference). AR450 is indeed over twice the price, but we're still talking less than ten bucks per square foot for AR. I doubt those discs are larger than about 12" diameter, so the steel cost itself should only be a small a fraction of the final sale price. It's the setup, invoicing, handling, cleaning, and power consumption of the table that make up most of the price.

I’ve been checking around online and locally and AR400 is out of my price range. I’ve considered welding AR tips on the existing worn out discs, but that’s expensive and a lot of work.
Thanks

 

[paul]

Did you check places like S h o u p and that southern farm supply place for blades that would match up? I’m surprised you can’t find a match. Should be able to fit up the diameter and the inner hole at least, might need to punch a few hub bolt holes. But it would be the right metal.

I understand you are doing low acres but still, mild steel would bend up on my rocks, wear out on the few sand acres.

May I ask the dimentions of the blades? I see some for a 1525 seeder, but I’d guess they end up different or they would cross list them….

Paul

 

[Perdido$]

Did you check places like S h o u p and that southern farm supply place for blades that would match up? I’m surprised you can’t find a match. Should be able to fit up the diameter and the inner hole at least, might need to punch a few hub bolt holes. But it would be the right metal.

I understand you are doing low acres but still, mild steel would bend up on my rocks, wear out on the few sand acres.

May I ask the dimentions of the blades? I see some for a 1525 seeder, but I’d guess they end up different or they would cross list them….

Paul

Paul,
They are 12” in diameter, 1/4” thick and have a .90” hole in the center. I did try Shoup and most every place I can think of.
Thanks

 

[Perdido$]

The local shop quoted $16 each and I asked them to quote AR as well. I’ll let yall know what they say.
Thanks
I spoke with the shop and AR400 will be $30 each so I’ll go with that. Thanks for everyone’s help and advice!

 

[deere4040]

I purchased a JD 1500 power seeder for planting small food plots and it’s in pretty good shape. The only things that need replacing are the cutting discs and they are not available along with a host of other parts. I set up a CAD file to duplicate the discs out of mild steel and sent it to send cut send where I’ve had previous parts made and was pleasantly surprised with a price of $30 each and down to $19 each in larger quantities.View attachment 143754

I have the JD 1550 Powr-Til. You can get those blades and I wonder if interchangeable but they are $$$$$$. Do you have the owners manual? I'm curious what tractor you are going to run on it. Be forewarned they are abusive to tractors at least in my opinion. Plan on getting covered in a lot of dirt/dust if you don't have a cab. This is not just an 8ft seeder you pull around.

 

[Perdido$]

I have a Kubota m7060, 71 hp with a cab, loader and 4wd and I’ve ordered a manual. All it really needed was the blades and a couple of hoses.

 

[Perdido$]

We took the drill to the farm yesterday and hooked it up to the tractor to make sure everything works, lube it up and assess any needs. After spraying the parts that need to move with AeroKroil it loosened up nicely and the right wheel turns everything smoothly. There are a couple of plastic ‘closers’ that need repair or replacement and I don’t see them available anywhere, so it might be time to have some 3D printed. All in all I’m very happy with my purchase and I should have less than $2k in it once all is said and done. I’m hoping that the manual arrives soon!
Thanks again everyone for all the insight and help!

 

[Perdido$]

As I search for OEM style closing or firming wheels I begin to question how they actually work. The front cutting discs are 1/4” thick and cut a 1/2” wide trench from what I’ve read. The closing wheels are also 1/4” and I assume they ride in the 1/2” trench. Other drills use wider wheels to close or compact the soil of the trench. I see a lot of 1” wide aftermarket poly wheels that are used on drills with similar trench width and I don’t know if they would work properly or should I just stay with the 1/4” plastic wheels.
Thanks

 

[deere4040]

As I search for OEM style closing or firming wheels I begin to question how they actually work. The front cutting discs are 1/4” thick and cut a 1/2” wide trench from what I’ve read. The closing wheels are also 1/4” and I assume they ride in the 1/2” trench. Other drills use wider wheels to close or compact the soil of the trench. I see a lot of 1” wide aftermarket poly wheels that are used on drills with similar trench width and I don’t know if they would work properly or should I just stay with the 1/4” plastic wheels.
Thanks

Not knowing what other equipment you have, my recommendation is to remove them and run a cultimulcher after planting. There is so much debris that wraps on them and dirt flying they don't roll great no matter how much you grease them. Also there is no down pressure. Assuming yours are hanging from a chain like mine were. They just kind of bounce around back there. If you look at my picture above you will notice that they are removed. I have all the parts if you are determined you need them. Some of mine are missing chunks out of them.

My advise though don't waste the money and run a packer instead.

Some field shots of the rye planted with the drill.

Make sure the chains are properly adjusted and check for any play in the bearings. Make sure all boxes have plenty of corn head grease in them. Repairs on these are not fun.

 

[Perdido$]

Not knowing what other equipment you have, my recommendation is to remove them and run a cultimulcher after planting. There is so much debris that wraps on them and dirt flying they don't roll great no matter how much you grease them. Also there is no down pressure. Assuming yours are hanging from a chain like mine were. They just kind of bounce around back there. If you look at my picture above you will notice that they are removed. I have all the parts if you are determined you need them. Some of mine are missing chunks out of them.

My advise though don't waste the money and run a packer instead.

Some field shots of the rye planted with the drill.

View attachment 144093

View attachment 144090View attachment 144091View attachment 144092



Make sure the chains are properly adjusted and check for any play in the bearings. Make sure all boxes have plenty of corn head grease in them. Repairs on these are not fun.

View attachment 144095
View attachment 144094View attachment 144096

Thanks for the great advice and I’m very much a novice with grain drills. I’ve got plenty of cornhead grease and I’ll load the boxes up when I install the new cutting discs. The 1500 looks a little different from yours where the cutting discs mount, it’s just a clamp on style with the retaining nut tight. I understand they are notorious for getting loose and I might install locknuts or castle nuts to keep that from happening. The man I bought it from showed me how to swing the cutter boxes down and forward so I would have good access when changing the discs using a torque wrench. Also, would an cultipacker do a good job? Any other advice will be more than welcome!
Thanks

 

[paul]

Would the chain drags work like on a typical old grain drill to pull some loose dirt over the rows, or not so much on this style of drill?

Paul

 

[DanielW]

A cultipacker (or for that matter, even an old flat roller/packer, or even a chain) would probably be as good as the old firming/closing wheels. Especially as this is just used for food plots - you're not going to be fussed about keeping crop emergence perfectly timed and uniform, nor worry about a 2% loss in germination. That's my opinion, anyway.

If it was mine, I wouldn't bother trying to get new closing discs. Pull a cultipacker, old-fashioned flat roller (the type you see sitting in fence rows everywhere), a chain, or a set of harrows behind it and it'll do just dandy.

 

[deere4040]

A cultipacker (or for that matter, even an old flat roller/packer, or even a chain) would probably be as good as the old firming/closing wheels. Especially as this is just used for food plots - you're not going to be fussed about keeping crop emergence perfectly timed and uniform, nor worry about a 2% loss in germination. That's my opinion, anyway.

If it was mine, I wouldn't bother trying to get new closing discs. Pull a cultipacker, old-fashioned flat roller (the type you see sitting in fence rows everywhere), a chain, or a set of harrows behind it and it'll do just dandy.

These drills are not designed to pull anything. Last thing you would want to do is back forget it’s there and have whatever it is get underneath with the cutting wheels.

 

[deere4040]

Thanks for the great advice and I’ve very much a novice with grain drills. I’ve got plenty of cornhead grease and I’ll load the boxes up when I install the new cutting discs. The 1500 looks a little different from yours where the cutting discs mount, it’s just a clamp on style with the retaining nut tight. I understand they are notorious for getting loose and I might install locknuts or castle nuts to keep that from happening. The man I bought it from showed me how to swing the cutter boxes down and forward so I would have good access when changing the discs using a torque wrench. Also, would an cultipacker do a good job? Any other advice will be more than welcome!
Thanks

Cultipacker same as cultimulcher. Both used interchangeably in this region. Guessing the only difference is whether it has teeth or not

 

[Perdido$]

These drills are not designed to pull anything. Last thing you would want to do is back forget it’s there and have whatever it is get underneath with the cutting wheels.

Thanks, we’ll just pull it with a separate tractor.