jd 2010 transmission

vjb

New User
the synchro shift transmission will not go into reverse. you can still select the forward gear and neutral. the high low range also is ok.
I removed the shifter rod and tried to engage it manually but it appears to be internal. has anyone seen this problem with these transmissions?
 
(quoted from post at 13:21:59 06/03/15) the synchro shift transmission will not go into reverse. you can still select the forward gear and neutral. the high low range also is ok.
I removed the shifter rod and tried to engage it manually but it appears to be internal. has anyone seen this problem with these transmissions?

When you put it in reverse does it grind or nothing at all? I do suspect a bad syncronizer and a worn out shifting fork not engaging the syncronizer completly. You will have to split the tractor and open it up. It would be foolish not replace the hi and low syncronizers and shifting forks while it is open. Been there, done that....
 
In addition to the synchronizers being worn as Tx Jim says the ends of the range shift forks wear as well. We weld them up and ground back down to fit in the shift collar (farmer fix) as we could not find any NOS or good replacements. Pull the transmission cover and take a look at those items. Yes you will have to split the tractor to repair.
 
(quoted from post at 15:55:34 06/03/15) In addition to the synchronizers being worn as Tx Jim says the ends of the range shift forks wear as well. We weld them up and ground back down to fit in the shift collar (farmer fix) as we could not find any NOS or good replacements. Pull the transmission cover and take a look at those items. Yes you will have to split the tractor to repair.


The Syncronizer drums and disks are still avalible through John Deere and A&I at a reduced cost. The shifting forks are obsolete from John Deere. HOWEVER, review the parts manual for the origianl part numbers (AT16706 & AT16705) and both of these parts will subs to a different part number, AT16706 subs to AT12618 and AT16705 subs to AT14965. Have your dealer contact The Parts Depot (800-743-3768), they have them instock in thier Wisconsin Warehouse. The Parts Depot will only sell to dealers, not privete individuals. These are NOS parts that they aquire from dealers and then they sell them back to the dealers when needed. Most Parts Guys (regardless of Color) don't know of The Parts Depot or will not spend time to call them. I suggest ordering them right away, as someone else might be reading this post and may beat you to it!

15 years ago I rebuilt the transmission on my 2010, I must of got one of the last set of forks that Deere had, they came out of the Syracuse, NY warehouse before they closed it.
 
It doesn't grind at all. it feels like it's blocked. from these replies, I understand that I can remove the cover on the transmission and possibly determine the problem however to replace any parts, I will have to split the tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 23:28:47 06/03/15) It doesn't grind at all. it feels like it's blocked. from these replies, I understand that I can remove the cover on the transmission and possibly determine the problem however to replace any parts, I will have to split the tractor.


If it does not grind at all that makes me think that either the Syncronizer is completly gone or that the linkage is completly worn out and not even pushing the syncronizer into the reverse range. Looks like you need to remove the top cover and get a birds eye view. As of now, I wnat think the linkage is the issue.
 
Good Afternoon, I realize it has been a while since this posting was made, but I have a 2010 with transmission troubles. The transmission is the only thing on this tractor that I have not rebuilt. I know these tractors have a lot of bad info out there and the shifter is certainly something that I wish John Deere would have done better, but I really like this tractor. It has about 450 hours on it since the engine was done. Now, when you drive the tractor sometimes, it will come to a halt. It will not move until you get it out of gear. You may drive it a while and it will do it again. I do not hear any grinding. Getting it out of gear when it halts, is difficult. But it finally comes. I took the top cover off and I do not see anything broken. The synchronizer discs are loose and I assume bad? I have bought some used parts and new synchronizers. I really dread this big of a project especially after all I have already done. I would be very grateful if anyone had some ideas that could help? Thank you very much!
 
Good Afternoon, I realize it has been a while since this posting was made, but I have a 2010 with transmission troubles. The transmission is the only thing on this tractor that I have not rebuilt. I know these tractors have a lot of bad info out there and the shifter is certainly something that I wish John Deere would have done better, but I really like this tractor. It has about 450 hours on it since the engine was done. Now, when you drive the tractor sometimes, it will come to a halt. It will not move until you get it out of gear. You may drive it a while and it will do it again. I do not hear any grinding. Getting it out of gear when it halts, is difficult. But it finally comes. I took the top cover off and I do not see anything broken. The synchronizer discs are loose and I assume bad? I have bought some used parts and new synchronizers. I really dread this big of a project especially after all I have already done. I would be very grateful if anyone had some ideas that could help? Thank you very much!
Good Evening! I’m 4 years late to the party. I’m currently working on a 2010 project myself. I’m experiencing similar problems with my transmission as well. When get the transmission open I will check back with what I find causing mine to lock up
 
Good Evening! I’m 4 years late to the party. I’m currently working on a 2010 project myself. I’m experiencing similar problems with my transmission as well. When get the transmission open I will check back with what I find causing mine to lock up
Welcome to the forums.

This thread started in 2015. You will be better served if you start a thread of your own. All too often people read the first post of a thread, not noticing the date, and start replying to the original poster totally missing a late comer's post like yours. It is best to use the old threads for info but make a thread for your problem. Give as much background and specifics related to the tractor and the issues.

Good luck, there are a few members currently active that have, or have had, 2010s.
 
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