Jd 300 clutch issues

Was cleaning snow banks back today and The clutch pedal was kind of sticking. I would have to pull it back by hand or with the back of my foot to have it fully disengage. After about 45 minutes of working the clutch was really hard to push all the way in with lots of resistance. I could feel some chattering or vibration noise on the clutch pedal shaft that must disengage the clutch on the driver side of the tractor.
The clutch would engage fine when it was working with no slipping whatsoever. So not sure if it’s a hydraulic issue or a mechanical issue.
Any ideas?
 
Yes clutch spring is still connected. The tractor has a reverser.
Towards the end of snow moving the clutch did seem to rebound but was definitely much much harder to push in and it seemed like I couldn’t push it down as far as before
 
the strange part is that the clutch always felt great until yesterday when I started it up and started acting funny like not fully returning to full upright position and then got really hard to push in and a vibration I could feel there the shaft goes into the bell housing
 
See the attached photo. Look just behind the engine at the housing, on the left side. With a reverser it doesn't look like they had the inspection port at the clutch. I am not sure if the inspection plug that is there will let one see the clutch. Using this port a borescope may be required to see the clutch; if the opening is clear to the clutch. I think you looked for this port when your tractor wouldn't turn over.

mvphoto31966.jpg
 
Thanks Jim me for the diagram. Will check when I get home.
I got the new radiator hose but didn’t get a chance to install it. Left cap partially open and never over heated. Also checked drain plug and no water in oil.
If I can’t see in clutch area what is a next step besides splitting the tractor?
 
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0MJEEp3d5dKbAVcQmXWIwQhIg
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0U1J1F41WAfYOMD4yf0qK7lOQ
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0eZKt-QXQXuF079NJdeN06ctw
Does anyone know what this shaft is that goes from clutch pedal to the other side of tractor into a hydraulic box? I wonder if this is causing the hard pedal symptom
 
yes the tractor has reverser...when moving tractor back and forward, the tractor must have the clutch must have movement of 2 to 2 1/2 inches before clutch movement starts, that is your reverser movement..the rest of the clutch is for shifting gears...when moving forward and backward there is no need to use clutch if you let off fuel, if not you push clutch the 2 or 2 1/2 inches(if your clutch is set up right) to stop flow to reverser shift lever and go opposite direction ...clear as mud right..
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/exnw3aeh2bh9hvl/Photo%20Feb%2025%2C%204%2042%2012%20PM.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x4guq20ycnti8lp/Photo%20Feb%2025%2C%204%2034%2047%20PM.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/r9ocxto6aaic1om/Photo%20Feb%2025%2C%204%2033%2053%20PM.jpg?dl=0
 
Any idea on the shaft running from clutch lever to hydraulic control on other side of tractor. I did order a manual should get it next week
 

Any ideas on what would cause the clutch pedal to vibrate and make a rattling noise? I can feel it on the shaft that’s connected to the pedal and goes into the bell housing
 
A couple things are: # 5, the throwout bearing may be failing or #29 the pressure plate may have a problem (as Tx Jim mentioned). If the pedal moves easy further than usual and then pushes hard for a short distance there might be a problem with the clutch disc linings. Did you pop that round cover and check to see if you can look inside?

You should find more detail to go with cannonball's answer to your question on the valve at the other end of the clutch shaft.
 

If that battery ground cable will reach over to a starter mounting bolt . That will reduce a lot of potential joint/connection/high resistance problems .
 
(quoted from post at 18:23:11 02/24/19) Yes clutch spring is still connected. The tractor has a reverser.
Towards the end of snow moving the clutch did seem to rebound but was definitely much much harder to push in and it seemed like I couldn’t push it down as far as before

Using the clutch every time with the reverser ?
 
When I am pushing snow banks back I use the clutch so I can hold my position while dumping. Is it a no no to use the clutch much?
 
. In instances as such , pretty well have to use the clutch.
How are the loader hydraulics connected ? Some connections can speed up the loader.
 
Hydraulics seem to be hooked up as they should from the factory.

I really hate to split the tractor if it’s not a big deal and I am able to run as is.
 
(quoted from post at 07:57:32 03/02/19) Hydraulics seem to be hooked up as they should from the factory.

I really hate to split the tractor if it’s not a big deal and I am able to run as is.

If the return line from the loader is routed to a ported transmission filter cover, the loader will operate much faster.
Sometimes somebody just routes the oil directly into the transmission case. This limits hydraulic flow due a weenie little transmission pump that supplies the large front pump.
I can't get comfortable operating a machine that could be ripping it's self to pieces .
 

His, and at least some other, Industrial 300s have a separate hydraulic filter for the 7320 industrial loader, it doesn't need the ported cover on the transmission filter, like the farm loaders use. He had a photo of it in a previous post and it appears to be plumbed correctly by the parts catalog.
 
It does appear to be plumbed correct. I guess I will just run it until something changes or winter ends and I don’t need it to plow
 
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