Jd 3010 ignition switch question

[Scrapcan]

I have a gasoline jd 3010 that has been converted to pertronix electronic ignition unit, before we purchased it. It is the normal hard to start 3010. Done all the recommended things and decided to dig into it a bit deeper.

I bought a copy of the jd shop manual, parts manual, and operators manual.

Carb cleaned and rebuilt. Set float correctly, used a reputable rebuild kit. Running intake manifold in hot position.

It is 12v neg ground. The charging system has been changed to a delco 10si 3 wire. It is setup with remote voltage sensing, switched exciter wire with diode, and charge light hooked up. Alternator mount is adequate but looks a bit rough. Charging system checks out. Battery is in good shape

Starter rebuilt after starter drive (bendix gear) sheared. Starter amp draw and operation checks good.

New plugs, new cap, new rotor, new carbon core wires as suggested by pertronix.

Timing has been verified to match suggested settings for elevation of 6200ft abv seal level elevation.

Fuel tank cleaned, fuel pump, lines, and fuel filter replaced.

A few questions

First, I note in my research that the gas/lp oem ignition switch has a 2.5 ohm ignition resistor in the switch, the diesel switch does not. Should I change over to the diesel switch with the pertronix conversion ( i believe it is the original ignitor version).

For reference
Gas/lp is ar26528
Diesel is ar26557

Next up is the lack of ignition bypass wire from the delco remy 4 terminal starter solenoid R terminal. Only the S terminal is wired in. Should I have the bypass wiring or was original solenoid only a 3 terminal versus 4 terminal that is on it now. Would full voltage when starter engaged help it start better?

Should i include a relay direct from battery triggered by the R post to insure full voltage to ignition while cranking?

Should I run the bypass curcuit along with the switch change?

Ok that should be enough frustration for the members for one post from me.

I appreciate all help and comments.

 

[rockcreek4630]

For the ignition you need to do some more
research on your coil and the unit this
will tell you weather you need full voltage
or resistance. I run electric fuel pump on
them it makes a big difference on starting.

 

[Scrapcan]

A bit more info on coil.

It is a 12v internal resistance coil, echlin brand from napa. I just replaced. Installed the same as previous coil that was on tractor when we bought it.

We have been told by many folks that the 3010 is just a hard starting tractor. But then I read here on the forum where people contradict that. So due diligence is in order.

Also the instructions I have found for installation of the pertronix ignitor says to remove a ballast resistor if present.

Anyway, what other info, data, or testing would the group like to see to help with my issue?

This post was edited by Scrapcan on 09/22/2022 at 08:25 am.

 

[wore out]

(quoted from post at 07:42:40 09/22/22)

Since you state you have an ''internally-resisted 12 Volt coil''
you can simply source ignition power from another switched terminal on the ignition switch that doesn't involve the resistor, NO need to swap out the switch.

NO need to worry about a ''starting bypass'' if this is the arrangement you go with.

It MIGHT start a little better if you got the ''correct'' coil, kept the resistor in the circuit, wired up a starting bypass, and powered the MODULE (NOT the coil) from power ahead of the resistor.

 

[rvirgil_KS]

I would call Pertronix and follow their instructions on wiring your coil.

You would not use the bypass with direct 12 volt coil as there is no resistor to bypass

I would not use the bypass with a Pertronix system as over voltage at the coil could fry the ignition module.

 

[Scrapcan]

@wore out

Thanks for the reply and help. This is what i was wondering as to the power for the pertronix module.

The statement on the "correct coil" depends. The correct coil to me would be put the points ignition back in and use the correct coil. Since this is not the case and the points ignition is not in place i am left with. ..

the correct coil for the pertronix unit is? Depends on what you read and who you talk to at pertronix. The correct coil for the pertronix ignition is 12 volt non external resistor coil, namely their flame thrower. But er duscussion with pertronix tech the napa echlin coil is a correct coil in this application.

You can see why I reached out to you here?

 

[wore out]

Can you measure the primary ignition current with a fully-charged battery and the engine rotated so the EI is being not being triggered and coil current is flowing?

Typically, you don't want to exceed 4 Amps.

Do this QUICKLY and don't leave the ignition switched on for very long.

 

[Scrapcan]

(quoted from post at 12:37:54 09/22/22)

Can you measure the primary ignition current with a fully-charged battery and the engine rotated so the EI is being not being triggered and coil current is flowing?

Typically, you don't want to exceed 4 Amps.

Do this QUICKLY and don't leave the ignition switched on for very long.

I can certainly try this weekend. I will post how I fair.

 

[Scrapcan]

I am not having much luck getting a good reading on cranking amoerage. Any tricks of the trade?

 

[Nick95]

Scrapcan, did you ever figure out your issue? I recently bought a 3010 gas well and it has been known to have some ignition issues; it was my dad's before I bought it.

 

[Jim.ME]

Welcome to the forums.

Scrapcan was last seen in October of 2022.

Best you start a thread of your own, describe your tractor, its history, your problem and what you have done to this point to fix it. That will eliminate people replying to Scrapcan's posts, which does happen when you tag onto old threads.