JD 4010 Injector pump and subsequent/compounding issues

[JMDREW]

My father-in-law purchased a 4010 last year from a friend's estate and handed it over to me for keeping up. Apparently, this tractor always needed a shot of ether to start when cold, but always fired right up after warming up. This spring, it would start and then die out after 15-30 seconds regardless of what I did. I learned to check the injector pump for black plastic flecks and that's what I found. I decided that I'd give rebuilding the injector pump a try and ordered the manual, rebuild kit, and the new fused governor cage rather than replacing the plastic grommet. I have pulled the pump apart a number of times to ensure that I have everything assembled correctly but I now am not sure that I have the engine on Compression TDC.

First Question: Is there a way to determine TDC on compression stroke without taking the valve cover off?

Compounding Issues: It is terrible trying to get this tractor to crank! I have pulled and cleaned the starter, replaced the starter solenoid and the relay. I brought the starter in to a great shop and they found no issues with it. I have replaced all of the cables to the battery and have excellent ground as well as a new battery (This had a single 12v battery so I replaced it with the highest Amperage battery Tractor Supply carried.) I feel that I'm fighting two different issues at the same time, but does anyone have suggestions that might help?

This is the first time I've messed with a diesel, but I've done a lot with gassers.

 

[Mike M]

Why not pull the valve cover ? I'm betting the valves could use adjustment anyhow.
That machine would of been 24 volt originally. So make sure you have a 12 volt starter. I did not even have good luck with a late 12V starter on a 3010. There are better aftermarket ones made now.

 

[SDMike]

JMDrew, There is a small inspection plate that you can pull off and see the flywheel, just ahead of the brake pedals. If I remember correctly, the 4010 has to be at 14
degrees, not tdc like a 4020, but if I am wrong, someone here will correct me. It has been quite a few years since I have had my injector pump rebuilt. Best of luck.

Mike

 

[JMDREW]

(quoted from post at 05:28:47 09/05/19) Why not pull the valve cover ? I'm betting the valves could use adjustment anyhow.
That machine would of been 24 volt originally. So make sure you have a 12 volt starter. I did not even have good luck with a late 12V starter on a 3010. There are better aftermarket ones made now.

'Cause I'm lazy :wink: The tractor has a cab on it which makes getting the hood off a pain. I was thinking the valves could use an adjustment as well so I may just have to bite the bullet.

I'll have to look more closely at the starter to see if it's 12 or 20. It spins like a banshee on 12V when pulled.

 

[Bob]

If you have the injection pump's driveshaft installed correctly (not 180? off) the pump will be "in time" to the engine, and when the mark in the pump's timing window is visible the engine will be close to TDC on the firing stroke.

 

[JMDREW]

(quoted from post at 07:05:29 09/05/19) If you have the injection pump's driveshaft installed correctly (not 180? off) the pump will be "in time" to the engine, and when the mark in the pump's timing window is visible the engine will be close to TDC on the firing stroke.

I did get all of the shaft alignments correct. However, I believe that the injection pump turns once for every two turns of the engine. I could be wrong, though.

 

[Bob]

(quoted from post at 09:37:07 09/05/19)

(quoted from post at 07:05:29 09/05/19) If you have the injection pump's driveshaft installed correctly (not 180? off) the pump will be "in time" to the engine, and when the mark in the pump's timing window is visible the engine will be close to TDC on the firing stroke.

I did get all of the shaft alignments correct. However, I believe that the injection pump turns once for every two turns of the engine. I could be wrong, though.

"I believe that the injection pump turns once for every two turns of the engine"

EXACTLY.

That's why the timing mark will only show in the timing window of the injection pump every other turn of the crankshaft.

 

[JMDREW]

(quoted from post at 08:23:50 09/05/19)
EXACTLY.

That's why the timing mark will only show in the timing window of the injection pump every other turn of the crankshaft.

Well, DUH! Now I feel less intelligent than I did 30 minutes ago... That's why I come to y'all! I was 75% towards having it understood. Thanks for the extra 25%

 

[Bob]

(quoted from post at 10:27:22 09/05/19)

(quoted from post at 08:23:50 09/05/19)
EXACTLY.

That's why the timing mark will only show in the timing window of the injection pump every other turn of the crankshaft.

Well, DUH! Now I feel less intelligent than I did 30 minutes ago... That's why I come to y'all! I was 75% towards having it understood. Thanks for the extra 25%

To be SURE oil pump-camshaft and injection pump driveshaft are correct you could remove the #1 injector and put a finger OVER the hole as you bar the engine over, as the piston comes up on the compression stroke you will be able to feel air rushing out of the cylinder as the piston rises to TDC of the compression stroke, and the timing mark should how up in the IP timing window as it nears TDC.

(As I am sure you are aware, don't leave the injector connected to the pressure line or do anything else that could cause high-pressure fuel spray to contact your skin!)

 

[tim s]

When you look down into the hole that the pump sets in,, there will be a "V" marl on the gear if it's pointing in toward the engine that is the correct position, for TDCC

 

[grwrench]

hello,, the 4010 pump times at 14 degrees BEFORE TDC. IF the pump does NOT have the speed advance update. with speed advance it times about 8 degrees BEFORE TDC. dieseltech can correct me. i just did a 4010 pump about a month ago, NO SPEED ADVANCE,, and timed it at 14 degrees.

 

[JDEM]

In reply to your comment . . " It is terrible trying to get this tractor to crank! I have pulled and cleaned the starter, replaced the
starter solenoid and the relay. I brought the starter in to a great shop and they found no issues with it."

Many of these tractors will never reach proper cranking speed without a hydraulic pump shut-off. You can buy one for around $10. Saves a lot
of burnt up starter motors. Deere should of just installed them on all the tractors when new.

 

[JMDREW]

Thanks! Where do I find one of these? I looked in the store here and they don't have a hydraulics section for the 4010. I've searched for "Hydraulic pump cut off" with no luck online as well. Is there a specific name for it?

Jay

 

[Scott 730]

Destroke valve.

 

[Tx Jim]

Destroke kit part # AR33249 for 4010 hyd pump without serial plate which should be correct unless hyd pump has been replaced subs to the part #s in photo

 

[JMDREW]

Well, one month later, I finally got the right parts in the same place at the same time and it's a running tractor!

Third time was the charm with a 12V starter, although I had to rotate the head to tuck the solenoid behind the manifold which gave me only two available mounting bolts. That said, it spins like a banshee.

Spent a little time getting the air out of the fuel lines and off it went. Did some disking this afternoon and it ran great. I do have some fuel leaking at the injector pump, I'm guessing I messed up an o-ring or gasket or two having taken it apart multiple times.

I also believe I may have done something incorrect in putting the governor back together or back into the injector pump as it will not throttle down to an idle, it will slow down some, but not enough. Guess I get to take the injector pump apart again. Going to buy a new kit for it first, tho.

Thanks for the ideas, help, suggestions, and support!