JD 401B

[Billy Shafer]

Numbers from the tag.
401BD-38502681
Hydrolic leak

Looking from the back. Right side where the arm for the three point hitch. Hooks on a shaft bottom side. There is a leak. Is there a seal that can be changed in the field. Are do you have to take out the shaft. I can't see any seal. Looks to me like you would have to take it all apart to fix the leak

 

[Tx Jim]

You can field repair by sliding load control shaft over just far enough to expose seal for R&R without draining oil. It's actually better to pull shaft and check for wear.
parts key 2 L55844 SEALING WASHER 2 (SUB FOR L41198) (USE WITH L41787)
parts key 3 T22095 SEAL 2 (USE WITH L26937
parts key 4 R460R O-RING 2 (USE WITH L26937)
parts key 5 T22094 BUSHING 2 (USE WITH L26937)

 

[Billy Shafer]

Thanks Jim can you email me so I can send you a drawing of what I am looking at.Forty years with big diesels. But I am a rookie at tractors.

[email protected]

 

[Cliff Nelson]

Shaft (#20) is what the 3 pt arms are connected to. Slide the shaft out to replace the seal washers and o-rings in the bushing. Some loader frames prevent you from completely removing the shaft. Have the draft selector set at "min" to prevent internal linkage issues. It goes without saying but drain the oil before removing the shaft.

 

[Billy Shafer]

But Cliff I like taking oil baths. Thanks guys I just don't want to screw things up. So the shaft should come out without unhooking anything in the case. Looks pretty simple just want to be sure.

 

[Tx Jim]

Be sure and do as Cliff stated and put L/D control lever in "min" or "D"

 

[cannonball]

good time to check your screen also

 

[Tx Jim]

I agree and I just posted a photo of it's location under the 310B thread.

 

[Deere47]

I did the exact same repair earlier this year on my 2350. It can be done in the field. It was a real SOB getting the bushings off the shaft (No. 21 on the drawing posted later on). Used a gear puller (professional quality, not a cheap China one ) and lots of heat. The shaft slides out to one side. It is a bit tricky getting the seals into the groove in the housing, but soaked them in hot water first to make them more flexible and I got them to pop in. Thge repair worked like a charm.

 

[Tx Jim]

(quoted from post at 11:59:17 08/14/12) It was a real SOB getting the bushings off the shaft (No. 21 on the drawing posted later on). Used a gear puller (professional quality, not a cheap China one ) and lots of heat.

Although JD recommended only replacing bushings if worn because of possible bore enlargement in trans case. A puller isn't required to remove old bushings. Just take a smaller rod and drive bushings out from opposite sides with a BH(large hammer). NO heat required on any I've replaced or witnessed being replaced.