JD 4630 hydraulic problem

[mechanicegf]

Jd 4630 quad range. Just replaced the clutch, got it back together, started it, it ran for less than a minute and the engine was killed by I think high hydraulic pressure. Any ideas

 

[wore out]

(quoted from post at 08:21:30 11/11/23) Jd 4630 quad range. Just replaced the clutch, got it back together, started it, it ran for less than a minute and the engine was killed by I think high hydraulic pressure. Any ideas

Will the engine crank over now?

To determine if something has gone wrong with the hydraulic pump you can remove it's drive coupling and again try to start the engine.

 

[buickanddeere]

Won t be the front pump unless some trash went through it .
What all was replaced along with the clutch ?

 

[used red MN]

Sounds like something got boo-booed during the
Perma-clutch installation. Did it slide back together
real easy? Is the engine locked now? If there is
something blocking fluid out of the hydraulic pump it
should just reach the set pressure and level the swash
plate and not pump any flow running with minimal
resistance.

 

[mechanicegf]

Split the tractor again, couldn't really find anything wrong. Put it back together. Started then died under from hydraulic pressure. Took the pto relief valve out of the valve body and left it open and tractor runs. Pto always turning, 3 point won't raise

 

[rockcreek4630]

What is the trans pressure.

 

[Tech 7]

Thinking there is a piled up PTO clutch disk....Tim S can say for sure

 

[used red MN]

Three point is a separate issue did it work before?
Maybe having that PTO valve out knocks out stand-by.
So that may also knock out my next question, would
the main clutch release and engage to move the
tractor when you had it running? Did you buy this
tractor as a non runner or clutch out and now you are
finding these problems? Did the I do not want to
discount the ability of others here, you have not
answered the trans pressure question. Might try to
email Tx Jim he is pretty knowledgeable on these. I see
he replied to the 4020 Serial number post a couple of
post down the page you can access his email by the
button in the bottom of his reply. You have to be
logged on to see it. Place post title and your user name
in your email. As mentioned poster Tim S is a
knowledgeable guy as well, must be busy otherwise he
has not posted since Oct. 22, his email is not open.

 

[wore out]

''took the pto relief valve out of the valve body and left it open and tractor runs.''

I would be INTERESTING to know what the O.P. has actually done, as there's NO ''PTO relief'' valve.

There's a oil cooler relief valve and a pressure regulating valve that controls the oil pressure to the clutch, the PTO clutch, the PTO brake, and the quad range planetary.

But the O.P. doesn't seem to be open to suggestions, or answering questions.

Makes it hard to help!

 

[buickanddeere]

Tim S is alive and well . Busy however with numerous events .

 

[mechanicegf]

I'm fine with answering questions. Just been busy trying to figure something out with it. But I'm going to have to take it to a dealer to get it diagnosed. We've owned the tractor for probably 15 years. Everything worked good with it. Then we were having to change the filter quite often. Then the clutch went out. Split it and installed new clutch. Then removed both axles and installed new brake linings. Installed new filter, cleaned the screen. Started tractor and it died like it was under heavy load. Removed the relief valve in the valve body that say pto. Left it open with a pail underneath, and it ran fine. Reinstalled valve, and now it will stay running, but sounds like it's under load. The pto runs but that could be because the brake is not applying? 3 point won't raise, clutch is hard to shift, need to hurry up and get it in gear before it reaches full rpm

 

[Tx Jim]

Clutch plate not releasing when pedal is depressed sounds as if clutch pressure plate fingers weren't adjusted correctly or clutch pedal has too much free travel. On subject of engine being under excessive load I suggest to manually de-stroke front hyd pump or disconnect frt pump drive coupler. Now start engine & report results.. I strongly advise against continually forcing trans in gear without clutch fully releasing.

This post was edited by Tx Jim on 11/13/2023 at 05:16 am.

 

[wore out]

''clutch pedal has too much free travel''

On a Perma Clutch?

 

[Tx Jim]

(quoted from post at 10:26:50 11/13/23)

''clutch pedal has too much free travel''

On a Perma Clutch?

OOPS Thanks for questioning my statement about excessive clutch pedal free travel!!!! What was I thinking about????

 

[wore out]

I wonder if the driveshaft could have gotten shoved back due to the splines not being aligned and mangled the quad range planetary unit?

I wonder if the O.P. removed the hex transmission pump driveshaft from the rear before the split and put it back AFTER the tractor was re-joined?

 

[tim s]

I have seen this happen many times,, one of the PTO clutch disc jiggered off the hub when you were wrestling it on the drive pins ,,then when you tightened up the cover bolts it crimped the disc,, then when it went together it was pushing on the crankshaft enough to put too much pressure on the main thrust bearing, ,,if you only tried to run it once the thrust bearing is okay,,but you will need to re-split it and replace the disc,, I made a simple tool to aid in setting the clutch pack on,, I will try to get a pic loaded, this tool pins into one of the cover bolt holes and keeps the pack in line as you slip it onto the drive pins,,always peek into a side opening and turn the hubs to be sure the disc stay on the hubs.

 

[tim s]

I can't see a hydraulic issue here,,it all seems to be originating with the clutch installation..when you destroke the pump it must be relieving enough drag to let the engine start, but the pressure on the crank shaft thrust bearing is still there...i'm still thinking its a pinched PTO disc.it needs solved before the thrust bearing is wiped out..usually the engine turns over hard as your going together when this happens,,and I'm sure you were careful with that..

 

[WTW]

Tim, You right. I have seen this happen too. I like to do the clutch finger adjustments on the bench if flywheel is removed, then transfer it to crankshaft. Once adjusted, reference mark plate and flywheel, install the three 5/8 nuts under traction fingers to keep assembly collapsed and aligned when cover plate screws are removed. Separate assembly, Install flywheel, then carry assembled clutch plate to flywheel in this collapsed / aligned position. Once cover plate bolts are torqued then remove the three 5/8 nuts.