JD 5425 transmission

miner09

Well-known Member
Got a 5425 and you can be going and it will stop like you take it out gear. When this happens I clutch it and move gear shift to neutral then back in gear and it takes off. May do it once or twice a day or do it several times in 30 minutes. Never know when it will happen. Filter and oil was changed about 200 hrs ago. Not low on oil. You can pull it hard and nothing happens other than it stops. It has power reverser. Only 2100 hrs on tractor. Appreciate any help.
 
Checking the other fluids too isn’t a bad idea coolant level in the reservoir? Does it do it on a hill? My sprayer would derate going across the field big yellow triangle when it needed a bit more
 
Checking the other fluids too isn’t a bad idea coolant level in the reservoir? Does it do it on a hill? My sprayer would derate going across the field big yellow triangle when it needed a bit more
It has the screen filter below the PTO shaft. Cleaned when I changed oil but hadn’t checked it since having problem.
 
Oh the other thing a green tractor will do is it won't like if your foot is on the "Clutch" pedal too much...slipping that inching pedal will do that. The thing has to be all the way up or all the way to the floor it doesn't like hanging out in the middle. Theres a timer and then it will do that on the newer ones. The older ones it just beeps at you incessantly. It does appear like it is possible you have a dry clutch also which transmission do you have?
 
Oh the other thing a green tractor will do is it won't like if your foot is on the "Clutch" pedal too much...slipping that inching pedal will do that. The thing has to be all the way up or all the way to the floor it doesn't like hanging out in the middle. Theres a timer and then it will do that on the newer ones. The older ones it just beeps at you incessantly. It does appear like it is possible you have a dry clutch also which transmission do you have?
It’s 12speed. I never ride the clutch. It’s wet clutch.
 
Well unless someone has another idea other than checking the wires going to the pedal switch it’s probably time to read the code. Is it new enough you can read the code off the display yourself? Only other thing I’ve seen happen is stuff get wedged up in there and contact the switch or in the case of a floor mounted pedal I’ve seen walnuts get stuck behind it.
 
Can't get codes on dash, Mercury switch for clutch nothing around it. Cab tractor. I ask dealer about looking at codes with reader and they said it wouldn't tell anything. I don't trust them a lot. LOL It's a 2009 model and I bought it new and only one that operates it. Thanks for your help. Maybe something will show up.
 
I thought on most of them that age you can step through the diagnostic screen on the right hand side and read the codes. I will admit I have shied away from the small ones but the 9670 is a 2010 and the 8220 and 8270R is a pre emission 2010 they are both right in there and they will have me go through the display to grab the code for them if I call. The 8220 is older there’s a diagnostic fuse and an old lcd display on the right it’s part of the hour meter. Manual showed how to do it.
 
So the 6430 is different enough I didn’t discover anything. But reading your ops manual that was free online and thinking about it overnight I’ve got 3 questions.
1: do you have MFWD? If it does does it do this in mfwd brakes or off or on or all 3 switch positions
2:How cold is it where you are?
3: what are the linkages like both to the transmission and your reverser?
4: I forgot another one did you happen to use hygaurd or a farm store hydraulic oil? There was a lawsuit awhile back. I’ve been burning up some of the farm store stuff in the antiques but the good stuff goes in the new tractors.
 
So the 6430 is different enough I didn’t discover anything. But reading your ops manual that was free online and thinking about it overnight I’ve got 3 questions.
1: do you have MFWD? If it does does it do this in mfwd brakes or off or on or all 3 switch positions
2:How cold is it where you are?
3: what are the linkages like both to the transmission and your reverser?
4: I forgot another one did you happen to use hygaurd or a farm store hydraulic oil? There was a lawsuit awhile back. I’ve been burning up some of the farm store stuff in the antiques but the good stuff goes in the new tractors.
Just to clarify the fluid/oil in # 4. The lawsuits have been about fluids/oils labeled and sold as 303, or a direct replacement fluid/oil for John Deere 303 Special Purpose Oil (aka "Yellow Bucket" fluid/oils). JD 303 was made obsolete with the Endangered Species Act because sperm whale oil was a key ingredient. It was replaced with Hy Gard, which has been upgraded several times since its introduction. Fluids/oils advertised as meeting JD J14, J20A, B, C, and D (Hy Gard) specs were not in that action, to my knowledge. Farm stores have some hydraulic oils that are ok as hydraulic oil and not part of the lawsuit target group. Plain hydraulic oils are not UTHF type products which are intended for wet brakes and clutches as well as hydraulics, which is the type of fluid/oil JD calls for when they spec Hy Gard. As always one should research what they are purchasing.
 
I use Hy Guard from Dealer. I did use a friends hay rake last fall. Not sure what oil he used. Mixing oil be the problem if he used something different. It's MFWD. Temperature 90--50 lately. Can't see anything with linkage. Hadn't had it in 4 wheel drive always in 2 wheel when it stops. Got new filter and oil but hadn't changed it.
 
Well that eliminates the wrong oil. That 303 shouldn’t be put in any modern tractor anyway. I’m not saying it has to be in a green can it can be the flavor you choose caterpillar mto or agco permatran or something that meets that spec. Heck there’s a local oil company that ships all over the world right here that has the right spec and has been used by a lot of farmers and rock quarries around here for decades. It’s what’s in my bulk tanks. Just be careful what you buy at the farm store. It’s who knows what from who knows who and if they lied about their spec on the back of the pail...that’s what happened with the last lawsuit if they can’t meet that old spec what’s the chances they will meet the latest hygaurd spec for a new tractor? I’ve got a couple pails the coop was getting rid of that’s the green cenex oil we used for decades with no problems but the oil lab was always scared of the ash content in the terragators I’d sample. I figure the b and super c won’t notice

Not that amount that’s in the rake won’t bother anything.
So it’s not super cold either.
Pretty much out of ideas on my end. It might have that same harness with tiny wires that the 6430 has that goes down the right side of the transmission and underneath. Might want to check to see if anything got unplugged or is loose and worn through. I think the speed sensors are under a cover in the middle of the bottom of tractor. I think it was a common problem I remember the instructor mentioning it at tech school often enough he was complaining about the Germans and their tiny wires enough it scared me away from them a bit.
 
I'm not too familiar with this series of tractors but as far as I know you can't access the codes on this machine without connecting to the machine with a laptop. Unfortunately without knowing what the code is I won't be much help.

Just to clarify you're saying the tractor comes out of gear but the gear shift lever and range lever remain engaged???? If so it sounds like an issue with the power reverser lever circuit. Does the "N" light up on the dash when it goes out of gear????

I had one of these tractors come in the shop last year that wouldn't drive at all. The original cause as to why it quit working in the first place I never did figure out but as far as I know this tractor is still going today. Very long story short the tractor had been out in the rain and the next day the guy went to try and drive it and it wouldn't move. Then he went about checking fuses and relays and he ended up putting a diode in backwards in the fuse panel which caused most of the functions on the tractor to not power up. On top of that it didn't do me any good to hook up the laptop and pull the codes because the laptop couldn't communicate to the tractor because the communication line that supplied information to the laptop wasn't getting powered up. To make matters worse the tech manuals for these tractors are lousy. It would have me test at connectors and relays that didn't exist......


I could maybe get you on the right track for checking relays and fuses. PAY ATTENTION TO HOW THE RELAYS ARE PLUGGED INTO THE PANEL BEFORE REMOVING THEM. THEY FIT EITHER WAY BUT ONLY WORK ONE WAY. That was another thing screwed up on the tractor I worked on last year and the book isn't clear which way they go back in.
 
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When this happens the N flashes. Then when I take gear shift out of gear and back in it goes off. Drove it about one hour today and it didn't act up.
 

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